GameStop exclusive Fallout/Destiny/Zelda weapons

Yup. The original cover has always been my standard for the T-51... Note the holes in that other piece you mentioned, on the nose...

78610c8db7acdaf12365af797fa31a21.jpg


Follow-up thought... What do you think of the notion that the different hole sizes and arrangements of those nose-filter pieces, the color (possibly material) of the headlamp lens, the construction of the optic piece, the cables on the original version and missing later, the different materials of the secondary wires/hoses coming off the cheeks... Different manufacturers? Different marks? Like the original cover is the T-51a, but what we see in FO3 is the T-51b?
 
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Also, take a look at the below image. It shows what a human body model looks like when it's in the Power Armor, without the Power Armor being drawn. You can't make it exactly the same because the power armor doesn't fit human beings with it's proportions.

View attachment 824091

I don't know why this is a thing because you can see whenever you get in your power armor that he grabs a hold of "handles" that work the mechanical hands on the suit. He/she also steps up onto lifts that make you taller.
 
Absolutely right GhostMinion, I never expect these mass produced "props" to match the quality of the ones seen here but given the strictures of making thousands versus dozens there are better and worse "licensed" props. To me these props from GameStop/EB Games are on the "better" scale, better, not perfect. As well, it has to be balanced against the fact I can order this helmet, the fusion core or the guns and pick them up in store as opposed to getting them shipped and having some Captain KeenBean in customs decide that they are not safe to let into Australia.
Love your threads and the work you put into your props.

Cheers

Tony
 
I don't know why this is a thing because you can see whenever you get in your power armor that he grabs a hold of "handles" that work the mechanical hands on the suit. He/she also steps up onto lifts that make you taller.

I am not sure if I actually read this somewhere long ago or I made it up as an explanation myself, but I think this weird scaling thing (after the animation) is necessary since they use the same skeleton / articulation points for the animations for both in and out of armor. Like clipping collision calculation, especially of the feet, or the points where weapons are in contact with the hands (which would end up clipped inside the forearm if the character model wouldn't be scaled up / stretched)

But this could also be some information I made up years ago :unsure
 
Welp, I think I left a vacuum in my wake when I clicked over to sign on to the Nuka Cola Dark mailing list. Could not say shut up and take my money fast enough.

As for the rest of these...? I knew no matter how good they were, they would never be perfect out of the box. What I'm most curious about is the extent to which they can be dismantled. The less I have to work around to accurize and superdetail them, the better. But even if I have to saw things apart, I'm gonna get inside that plasma rifle to make it better. *heh* I've got a nice, light-orange-y safety yellow that I already sourced when I was planning to scratch build the thing, so I'm not worried about the repaint. I have o.d. paint and fine-grind cork from a WWII re-enactment site to do my Pip-Boys in authentic textured finish. @GhostMinion, I was already planning to get one of your T-51 helmets. I'm probably now also going to want a set of accurizing bits to bring this one up to spec. I'm still going to do yours as my BoS lid (my auto-insertion character is a Brotherhood Scribe, after all), and this one I think I'm going to do up either as the Winterized version or the Vault-Tec version.

Mainly I am looking at these as better bases to start from than scratch-building. My girlfriend pre-ordered the Power Armor edition for the map and miniatures and such -- she prefers the X-01 armor by a lot. And I hadn't seen anyone offering this style of plasma rifle, so it's not like I was spoiled for choice. I have a long history of enjoying the challenge of making silk purses out of pigs' ears, so I've had to work with far worse.


I'm intrigued by your description of the "authentic textured finish" of the Pip-Boy - how does the cork factor in? Do you have (or plan on making) a thread showing your technique?
 
I'm intrigued by your description of the "authentic textured finish" of the Pip-Boy - how does the cork factor in? Do you have (or plan on making) a thread showing your technique?

The look in-game always seemed to me to be deliberately evoking the GI textured paint of WWII and Korea that was applied to helmets and most equipment, and consisted of cork ground to various finenesses mixed into the paint. Sometimes sand. But cork is lighter. So I'm going with a fine grind and mixing by eye until it seems right. This sort of thing:

SAM_1280.JPG

sand.jpg


And absolutely I'm going to show it as I go. I'm still working my way through all of zapwizard's files for the 3000, though, and the 2000 kit isn't out 'til Christmas, so it's going to be a bit. :unsure
 
Id really love to know more about this cork paint process for a 3D printed pip boy i'm working on.....would look great, AND hide the print lines a bit!
 
Id really love to know more about this cork paint process for a 3D printed pip boy i'm working on.....would look great, AND hide the print lines a bit!

There are several different approaches people use. Experiment on something less important to find the one you prefer. Google "corking a WWII helmet". I get my cork pre-ground, but I still run it through a coffee/spice grinder to get it as small and uniform as I can. I spray on a fairly thick first coat, then have a friend turn the piece at a slow, even speed while I sift the cork on through an old flour sifter, pretty generously. I scrape off the areas that will be rubbing. After about a half-hour I use a soft brush and brush off all the cork that didn't stick, which is a lot. If you did it right, and quickly enough, you should have fairly even coverage, and no "bald spots". Then a couple more coats to finish/seal. Definitely not one of the harder paint apps I've learned over the years. :)
 
I don't think the Pip Boy was ever meant to be that textured, it would be pretty easy to represent in the game if that was the look they were after.

Still, I think it would look interesting.
 
I don't think the Pip Boy was ever meant to be that textured, it would be pretty easy to represent in the game if that was the look they were after.

Still, I think it would look interesting.

That's why I'm going with cork over sand. As the two helmets I posted show, the cork texture is less... pronounced than the sand. I intend for it to be a subtle effect -- helped further by subsequent paint layers.

In other news, the plasma rifle -- at least -- has been pushed from December release back to late March. They underestimated demand and their production run didn't have enough, so they're delaying the entire release until they can get more made. Not sure if this applies to the other replicas in that collection, as I didn't order any of those. *heh*

The Pip Boy 2000 kits are in at GameStop and ThinkGeek, as of Fallout 76's release.

And I am underwhelmed with the Power Armor Edition T-51 helmets. Here's the closest, clearest pic I have of one, pending my girlfriend's box arriving:

DsDxEOlWkAEBbko.jpg


I'm doubly glad I'm sticking with my GhostMinion one, and looking forward to his Ultracite Power Armor -- even if he only ever just does the helmet. :p I'll be able to fix up and repaint my girlfriend's PAE helmet. I sorta welcome the challenge of making it better. But some reports of helmets arriving damaged, of flimsy/brittle plastic, etc., make me glad she has no plans to wear it for costuming purposes (her greatest love is the X-01).
 
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