Plaster has to be liquid enough to capture all the detail. Also the way you lay it on the sculpt is important. If the plaster is liquid enough (the correct ratio mix) blowing over it to force it in is a way. You can also use a chip brush.
Besides blowing, some people literally "splash" the first coat against the sculpt. This forces the material into the crannies etc.. then blow to ensure there will be no bubbles.
The splashing method can be sloppy without experience, the chip brush and blowing will be cleaner.
It was very liquid. Not sure how to describe it. Much closer to milk than milk shake? Not sure what you mean by blowing it... like with a compressor?
How are you applying your first plaster splash coat (copy coat)?
Are you leaving the splash coat too long before moving ahead..I mean for many hours or a day?. This could cause delamination.
Adding fresh plaster over very dry plaster can produce this.
If you have to, damp the previous layer with water and go ahead with the rest of the mold. Better to make the piece in a row.
I've tried just a splash coat, probably my technique but I missed a lot of detail. The second time I doing like a slow splash coat plus using a chip brush to force it into the crevices and then continuing with the splash coat.That got more detail, but I think the problem was it didn't build enough rigidity to be able to retain the detail, the negatives easily came off (not scrubbing/picking hard at the clay, just enough and whole sections came out). The longest I tried opening the mold was 6 hours, the first was 2, the second 4. I know what you mean by delamination. I left a small trial over night using the 2 pour per half technique and after I got it separated it came apart in pieces.
I laid the glove sculpt horizontally like the one laying on the table and had it supported in the box I made with foam board. I then did two pours per half, very quickly following each other. Letting the one half set for about 30-40 minutes, spraying between them with mold release (though I've also tried using Vaseline). The gloves are finicky, image below.
Edit, I should also say that on the next glove, I intend to not go as deep with the detail lines. They were about 1/8". I think I can get away with less and use paint to get a deeper effect. The palm of the glove was before I found a good reference photo, so I channeled Iron Man a bit
What plaster are you using?. Some times if the details are too weak stone plaster is a must.
Started with a giant bad of plaster I got at the local pottery supply place. Didn't work well, but I've tried both ultracal and hydrocal as well.
As for the video, you don´t need that techniche to cast latrex gloves. The dweling system is the way to go, you don´t need a core. Fill it to the top, let dwell for three hours aprox, empty and let dry. Yoll get a good and even thicness this way. Besides they are using a PU resin. Not good to cast latex at all. And the molding technique is a particular one for prosthetics, prepared to allow the excess of material to come out.
I wasn't going to use their whole system, but it intrigued me to use resin instead as I think I can control the mixture easier. Plus I'm currently in an apartment with no easy outside area to work. Plaster is a giant mess... or it is when I use it anyway. lol
Is there another resin that would work better for this? Thanks so much for the input. Very much in learning mode here.
Another thing I've done is switch to an oil based clay. I figured that since it is a much longer working time, you really don't have to worry about it drying as much, it would be easier to control moisture during the mold curing process. (Also my sculpt won't just up and crack if I need to leave it sit for a day due to work. Any truth to that hunch?