Metal Lathes-which one to get?

That´s probably the most happened crash, bringing a lot impact power into the machine and it´s parts.

Others are when the tool bites into the material, causing a broken tool (parting blade for example), or the material pulled out of the chuck (esspecially with flexible material like POM, Nylon and others, or when thinwalled tubes collapse) - which sends the part flying around, with luck not into your face.

I know what a crashed parting blade feels like ;)
 
Hello all,

I am wondering what metal lathe to get to make lightsabers on.I have made quite a few out of PVc and sinktubes and would like to step up to full metal sabers.There are so many metal lathes to choose from and was wondering which ones are worth buying.I would like it to be within 650 dollars.Thanks
Personally I would not recommend the grizzly/harbor freight at all. Do it right the first time and get a good lathe rather than settling for the cheap one. Having owned a grizzly one vs owning a 1964 9" South Bend, the difference is night and day. Depending on where you are you are in the country you can get a good benchtop one for $650 or close to that. Theyre super acurate even with wear, and have many more features such as quick change gear boxes for cross/carriage feeds, where the grizzly only has carriage feed and it's only controlled by change gears. The holding power of the grizzly is abismal, I used to stall mine out all the time taking light cuts. You'll spend more time machining, and modifying it to be somewhat usuable than if you spend the money and get a good lathe, you won't regret it. Even for someone who is not a machinist or has never used a lathe- it would be the better choice. It's a lot easier to learn on a machine that's actually capable of something than a cheap one that can't do much at all.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 
All you guys and your cool metal mini lathes make the rest of us mortals jealous. Maybe one day I'll get into that, it's daunting because I know almost nothing about metal work... So, who wants to make me an accurate Hoth disk for my DL-44? :D
 
Listen to Lichtbringer for sure.

in my opinion, from experience... get the LARGEST lathe your budget and space can handle. You will run into a machine's size limitations as well as rigidity limitations faster than you think if you get semi serious.

For me, the larger the machine's rigidity is where the benefit comes from. You can have better finishes and faster work times with a larger machine. Parting on a small machine is a nightmare and can be pretty dang scary at times. Even on a medium sized machine parting is no fun.

Also, learn about tooling. There are different grades of carbide. Some work amazingly on aluminum, and some work amazingly on steels and harder metals, but not both. I have inserts for both types of metal, as well as some HSS inserts for other things.

I don't know much about feeds and speeds, but it's worth learning. Also... VARIABLE speed control is VERY nice to have... I wish I had waited the 6 months to get the next step up with it. I hate changing belts for speeds.

- - - Updated - - -

OH... and get a spring loaded chuck key... or put it on tether that pulls it out for you. Rookie mistakes like leaving a chuck key in the chuck can be your one and only mistake fast.

And NO long sleeves, long hair, or stuff that can get caught and pull you in. No jewelry, etc. I use nitric gloves, but those tear away if I sneeze on them....

Do NOT clear chips/strings by hand... if you don't have a chip clearing tool, STOP the machine and clear them.

- - - Updated - - -

When a moving part is hit by another part, mostly accompanied by a loud sound. ;)

and poopy pants
 
Listen to Lichtbringer for sure.

in my opinion, from experience... get the LARGEST lathe your budget and space can handle. You will run into a machine's size limitations as well as rigidity limitations faster than you think if you get semi serious.

For me, the larger the machine's rigidity is where the benefit comes from. You can have better finishes and faster work times with a larger machine. Parting on a small machine is a nightmare and can be pretty dang scary at times. Even on a medium sized machine parting is no fun.

Also, learn about tooling. There are different grades of carbide. Some work amazingly on aluminum, and some work amazingly on steels and harder metals, but not both. I have inserts for both types of metal, as well as some HSS inserts for other things.

I don't know much about feeds and speeds, but it's worth learning. Also... VARIABLE speed control is VERY nice to have... I wish I had waited the 6 months to get the next step up with it. I hate changing belts for speeds.

- - - Updated - - -

OH... and get a spring loaded chuck key... or put it on tether that pulls it out for you. Rookie mistakes like leaving a chuck key in the chuck can be your one and only mistake fast.

And NO long sleeves, long hair, or stuff that can get caught and pull you in. No jewelry, etc. I use nitric gloves, but those tear away if I sneeze on them....

Do NOT clear chips/strings by hand... if you don't have a chip clearing tool, STOP the machine and clear them.

- - - Updated - - -



and poopy pants

Thanks for the input Scott, what size machine do you have?
 
On the subject of parting and plunge cuts, I followed a tip from a YouTube vid. Centre the cutter upside down in the tool post and run the chuck in reverse. The theory being, resistance pushes the cutter up and away rather than down and in to the work piece. I'm definitely more comfortable doing it this way and ii haven't initiated a 'crash' like I have with the standard set up.
I've only been using my mini lathe for a couple of years and I have lots to learn but this little tip works for me.
 
Since I have detailed this thread...

I want to try and make my own control box.

Something like Anakin starkiller’s TFA BTS footage
a9fbdc1ab150d4ad8b33dc47d9aedb78.jpg


I know how to make the box (rectangle) shape on my mill. My problem is getting the radius cut in it
fc6dbc6a885b89a798a270eee8f8cdd9.jpg


First thing I thought of, was if the outside diameter of the saber is say 1-1/2”. I could clamp the rectangle into the vise on the mill vertically

Then with a 1-1/2” hole saw, cut the radius in like drilling a hole

Below I have a cardboard tube, pretending to be my 1-1/2” hole saw
7f77d7256da6733a38d96c4f77ae3b54.jpg


I have recently learned of a “boring head”

https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3662&category=

But every video I have seen on YouTube, shows them starting off by drilling a hole, and then using the bore head to enlarge it

Would a boring head work to make the radius, if I cut the radius very small each time?

Any advice, or videos on how to make a radius like this to give me an idea of where to start?
 
Since I have detailed this thread...

I want to try and make my own control box.

Something like Anakin starkiller’s TFA BTS footage
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180320/a9fbdc1ab150d4ad8b33dc47d9aedb78.jpg

I know how to make the box (rectangle) shape on my mill. My problem is getting the radius cut in it
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180320/fc6dbc6a885b89a798a270eee8f8cdd9.jpg

First thing I thought of, was if the outside diameter of the saber is say 1-1/2”. I could clamp the rectangle into the vise on the mill vertically

Then with a 1-1/2” hole saw, cut the radius in like drilling a hole

Below I have a cardboard tube, pretending to be my 1-1/2” hole saw
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180320/7f77d7256da6733a38d96c4f77ae3b54.jpg

I have recently learned of a “boring head”

https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3662&category=

But every video I have seen on YouTube, shows them starting off by drilling a hole, and then using the bore head to enlarge it

Would a boring head work to make the radius, if I cut the radius very small each time?

Any advice, or videos on how to make a radius like this to give me an idea of where to start?

I have made an activation box for a 1.5" dia. lightsaber before using my mill. There are two good ways to this with a mill. The first is not the best way of the two but will work. If you have a standard 1.5" end mill with a 3/4" shank, you could mount the box vertically and make your bevel. I did something similar to that using a 1.125" dia. and a 1" dia end mill (both with reduced shanks) for some saber parts. However those large end mills like to grab so you have to be very careful when doing it this way. The other way, the better way, is to use a ball end mill (again with a reduced shank so that it would fit in my tiny mill) of the diameter that you need. I used a 1.5" ball end mill to make the radius for my activation box. Here's a pic of the activation box I made and the ball end mill in the mill, just before milling the bevel...

Saber_32-11.jpg

Alternatively, one might also be able to do this using a drum sander with a 1/5" dia. sanding drum.
 
I have a R8 setup, I can’t for the life of me find a 1-1/2” end mill bit?!

Anyone have any links? If I go very very slow, and only take .010 at a time, do you think my little mini mill can handle this?
 
I have a R8 setup, I can’t for the life of me find a 1-1/2” end mill bit?!

Anyone have any links? If I go very very slow, and only take .010 at a time, do you think my little mini mill can handle this?
Buy a boring head instead, you may spend a little more money in the long run with tooling, but it will be WAY more useful and versatile than buying the 1 1/2" ball nose end mill.
 
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Buy a boring head instead, you may spend a little more money in the long run with tooling, but it will be WAY more useful and versatile than buying the 1 1/2" ball nose end mill.

That would work in a large mill but not so well in a mini mill. Since it's off center when spinning, it would put too much stress force on the milling head.
 
That would work in a large mill but not so well in a mini mill. Since it's off center when spinning, it would put too much stress force on the milling head.
You can buy small boring heads. Use the proper speeds and feeds and it will work fine.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 
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