Sculpting Techniques: Universal help and critique thread

Knight Falcon · Jan 6, 2016

Hey guys,

I've been sculpting for a while now, but I always have trouble finding answers when I get stuck in a rut regarding which process is best for a specific outcome. There may be a thread on this topic already (I couldn't find one), but I thought it would be nice to have a place where new (or seasoned) sculptors can ask questions and learn new techniques.

As for my immediate assistance, I've been having trouble finding a good tutorial on the best way to texture sculpts for mask making. I've seen that many mold a smooth version first and add texture later, but I have yet to find how that process is done.

Example: I'm working on some gauntlets (Pictures to come later) and I really would like to add a leather texture to it, but when I use a monster makers texture stamp, it tends to make the clay indented. How do I do this so that the surface remains even?

Thanks guys and feel free to post your own questions and answers. Or if a thread such as this already exists, direct me to it

Mr Mold Maker · Jan 6, 2016

What you're referring to, where they sculpt it smooth and add texture later, is a very common technique on these boards.

The jist of it, as simply as I can explain; you start by sculpting your piece, digitally or practically. Once you're happy with it, you make a waste mold of the sculpt. Generally they're made of Alginate or a thin silicone jacket, backed with a plaster bandage mother mold. You cast a resin piece and do the "finishing" work.... Sanding, bondo, texture, Etc. Many "textures" can be bought in a spray can and sprayed on. This is referred to as the "master" and you mold this properly to cast the finished piece.

It will serve you much better in the future to learn to replicate the textures by hand. Those "texture stamps" are completely worthless.

A great way for a leather texture is to just cross hatch across the surface with a tool. I use an Afro pick for large areas and wrinkles, and a small tool made of a couple pieces of piano wire for smaller ones. Burnish it down with a stipple sponge and it gives a very convincing effect. I'd pick up Don Lanning's Stan Winston School tutorial as he goes over very many textures I couldn't possibly explain over text.

Sinned · Jan 6, 2016

Mr Mold Maker said:
I'd pick up Don Lanning's Stan Winston School tutorial as he goes over very many textures I couldn't possibly explain over text.

1000% this! Don Lanning's videos are easily the most pleasant tutorial videos I've ever watched. Not only is he incredibly skilled, but he does an AMAZING job of explaining how he's doing things. It's very obvious that he's passionate about helping you learn, and not just showing you some skills.

As for the texture stamps, I've had mixed luck with them, but have found them useful, in certain applications.

I've actually gone the opposite of how Mr Mold Maker outlines things above. For textured masks, I do all that in the original clay sculpt, and make my production mold straight away. For smooth masks, I sculpt the overall form, and smooth as best I can, create the junk mold, and a master cast, which I then smooth much better with paper, etc. Then create the production mold from that. But, I'm horrible at smoothing clay. If I could figure out how to do that effectively, I'd probably go about things differently. Smoothing clay has come up in many threads here... I still can't get it right.

Knight Falcon · Jan 6, 2016

Mr Mold Maker said:
I'd pick up Don Lanning's Stan Winston School tutorial as he goes over very many textures I couldn't possibly explain over text.

Thanks! I've heard of the Stan Winston School being brought up many times, and it's probably about time that I pick that up. That's probably the best way for me to learn the different materials that you're talking about. As of now, I've only used UltraCal 30 molds and haven't really had the chance to experiment with resins.

Sinned said:
For textured masks, I do all that in the original clay sculpt, and make my production mold straight away. For smooth masks, I sculpt the overall form, and smooth as best I can, create the junk mold, and a master cast, which I then smooth much better with paper, etc. Then create the production mold from that. But, I'm horrible at smoothing clay. If I could figure out how to do that effectively, I'd probably go about things differently. Smoothing clay has come up in many threads here... I still can't get it right.

Me too! Many people have recommended that I use keyboard cleaner upside down to freeze the clay and then sandpaper, but I can't seem to make that be extremely effective. Isopropyl Myristate has been my best bet, but it still isn't perfectly smooth. I just stare at the masks made by people like Reevzfx and can't even comprehend how they do it.

I think I need to look more into making master casts, I've heard of people using foam but I may have to speak to my local supplier for more information. When it comes to the chemicals, I tend to get mixed up and confused :lol

Howat Props · Jan 11, 2016

I tend to carve the texture in with loop tools, and then I soften and round things off using a combination of brushing with a dry sponge, lighter fluid and a chefs blowtorch

Knight Falcon · Jan 17, 2016

Howat Props said:
I tend to carve the texture in with loop tools, and then I soften and round things off using a combination of brushing with a dry sponge, lighter fluid and a chefs blowtorch

I've heard that lighter fluid or shellite will help dissolve the Monster Clay but a blowtorch as well?? That's definitely a route that I've never heard of. So you light the fluid or..? I'd like to hear more about this process.

vistaVision · Jan 17, 2016

Knight Falcon said:
I've heard that lighter fluid or shellite will help dissolve the Monster Clay but a blowtorch as well?? That's definitely a route that I've never heard of. So you light the fluid or..? I'd like to hear more about this process.

Don't light the fluid! Use the torch (or a heat gun) to soften the monster clay. With a little care you can melt a very thin layer and it will self-smooth. Hard to control that. Myristate is so messy and leaves monster clay soft for a long time. The lighter fluid is a great solvent and won't leave a soft mushy surface for too long, it evaporates quickly. You can get it at just about any hardware store, or any Walgreens drugstore. As mentioned above, the monster clay can be hardened by cold and smoothed with sandpaper, or a scotchbrite pad. try every technique to see what works best for you. Nothing replaces practice and experience.

Knight Falcon · Jan 17, 2016

vistaVision said:
Don't light the fluid!...Nothing replaces practice and experience.

Makes more sense :lol
I've tried the route with Myristate and have found that you're absolutely correct with your statement. I guess they just recommend it since they sell the stuff.
I've played around with a heat gun, and it works great on flat surfaces (for me) but I have trouble on curved surfaces. I'll definitely try the lighter fluid though. Sounds like it may be my best bet.

vistaVision · Jan 17, 2016

You're right about the heat gun! Can easily create drips and runs. Great if you're sculpting The Incredible Melting Man, not so great for other subjects. I do like the lighter fluid, you can also try Mineral Spirits, works in a similar fashion. Often I use both, but tend to prefer the lighter fluid. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress!

Howat Props · Jan 17, 2016

Knight Falcon said:
I've heard that lighter fluid or shellite will help dissolve the Monster Clay but a blowtorch as well?? That's definitely a route that I've never heard of. So you light the fluid or..? I'd like to hear more about this process.

no definitely dont light it haha! yeah just experiment, also making your own sculpting tools help, you can make custom little tools for certain jobs. i make very fine loop tools for detail using acupuncture needles aand a piece of brass tube or a thin dowel. they work better than any shop bought tools ive found

pitchforknumb · Jan 18, 2016

For smoothing helmets, I really like to wet sand the surface. You can get pretty smooth in a short amount of time.

Knight Falcon · Jan 20, 2016

vistaVision said:
Often I use both, but tend to prefer the lighter fluid.

I went to the store and purchased some lighter fluid the other day. I haven't had a chance to really work with it yet, but I did do a quick test rub on an area. Seems like it works pretty great! I need to get a less porous sponge I think, though.

Howat Props · Jan 21, 2016

Knight Falcon said:
I went to the store and purchased some lighter fluid the other day. I haven't had a chance to really work with it yet, but I did do a quick test rub on an area. Seems like it works pretty great! I need to get a less porous sponge I think, though.

this kind of sponge works well

large pores and made of plastic

Sculpting Techniques: Universal help and critique thread

Knight Falcon

Well-Known Member

Mr Mold Maker

Master Member

Sinned

Well-Known Member

Knight Falcon

Well-Known Member

Howat Props

Active Member

Knight Falcon

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vistaVision

Sr Member

Knight Falcon

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vistaVision

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Howat Props

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pitchforknumb

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Knight Falcon

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Howat Props

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