Who wants to hold my hand making an FX saber?

SethS

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I am all for looking things up before asking questions. Nothing annoys me more than posts that take more time to type up than they do to google for an answer. But in this case, there is so much information, and so many variables, that as a newb to electronics, trying to discern a clear way to put together an FX saber is utterly escaping.

So here is what I want to do:

Take one of my flash-gun based custom lightsabers and add electronics to it. I'd like sound (ignition, clash, hum) and vibration, a single color LED, a detachable blade, a light-up power button, and a recharge port.

Step One-- I'd love a part list. I know we're not supposed to like Sabeforge, but they do have a plot of plug and play options that might make this easier.

Step Two-- I'd need a wiring diagram that might make clearer sense beyond a legit schematic. I took a couple years of electronics back in high school-- and that was a long time ago.

Step Three-- I don't want a crystal reveal, do I still need a chassis? Can all these innards be wrapped in insulation foam and crammed inside the saber, or do they need a sled? If they do, obviously I'm looking at commissioning a custom one based on the I.D. of whatever my custom saber would be.

Any help, or any questions of things I should have decided upon and didn't answer, are greatly appreciated!
 
I'll be following along with this thread with great interest... im in the same boat as I eventually want to light up my Canon X build...
 
So here is what I want to do:

Hey @SethS ! So here is what you need to do:

Step 1. Measure the inside cavity of the flash-gun you want to use. Depth, Diameter, Change in Diameter at different Depths,etc. Also measure the diameter and depth of the hole that leads out to the area of your "emitter". The area that your LED Star and Lense sits has to be at least 20mm in Diameter! You should also have enough depth behind it to house a proper heat sink for your LED Star. Call it an inch and you'll O.K.

Step 2. Get everything from you can from TCSS. AND GET IF FAST IF THEY HAVE IT IN STOCK!

Step 3. Do you have an ESD-Safe Soldering Iron? If no, get this one, IT'S AWESOME!... https://www.tequipment.net/HakkoFX888D-23BY.html?search=true
Get one of these too while you're at it... https://www.tequipment.net/HakkoT18-BL.html

Step 4. If you go with a Crystal Focus v8.0 I'll make you a wiring diagram. But you'll have to do the Ohm's Law math yourself if you pick LEDs and resistors that I haven't used on my lightsaber.

You don't have to have a chassis, nor a sled, but it does help prevent damage to expensive little soundcards and all the gibblygook you spent hours soldering to said soundcard! And it makes it look pretty even if noone will see it but you before you put it inside your hilt.

If I hadn't gotten outbid by $150 dollars on a Canon Model X yesterday I could help you with those measurements you'll need. ;)
 
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This is a great start-- thank you!

Step 1. Measure the inside cavity of the flash-gun you want to use. Depth, Diameter, Change in Diameter at different Depths,etc. Also measure the diameter and depth of the hole that leads out to the area of your "emitter". The area that your LED Star and Lense sits has to be at least 20mm in Diameter! You should also have enough depth behind it to house a proper heat sink for your LED Star. Call it an inch and you'll O.K.

I'm still deciding what parts to use, but it'll probably by a saberforge blade holder/emitter that I really like, with a canon Y or X body, and either a TCSS or canon lower body. Removing any guts the canon has should give me as much space as any custom saber.

If possible I'd love to mount the button and recharge port into existing Canon ports.

Step 2. Get everything from you can from TCSS. AND GET IF FAST IF THEY HAVE IT IN STOCK!

Here's where I get confused-- I don't know which components to get as not all of them are compatible with each other. They also have some plug and play parts, which is probably my best bet. I DO really like this saberforge blade holder-- and while their threading is proprietary, aren't blade sizes universal?

But either way, I am unclear as to which components I need.

Step 3. Do you have a ESD-Safe Soldering Iron? If no, get this one, IT'S AWESOME!... https://www.tequipment.net/HakkoFX888D-23BY.html?search=true
Get one of these too while you're at it... https://www.tequipment.net/HakkoT18-BL.html

I don't have an iron as of yet, but I assumed I'd be acquiring one. :)

Step 4. If you go with a Crystal Focus v8.0 I'll make you a wiring diagram. But you'll have to do the Ohm's Law math yourself if you pick LEDs and resistors that I haven't used on my lightsaber.

Again-- not sure what parts to get-- but if you have a set-up that does what I want I will happily follow in some footsteps to save myself any headaches!

You don't have to have a chassis, nor a sled, but it does help prevent damage to expensive little soundcards and all the gibblygook you spent hours soldering to said soundcard! And it makes it look pretty even if noone will see it but you before you put it inside your hilt.

It seems like most chassis makers selling on shapeways do custom ones pretty cheap. Maybe once I know my internal dimensions and component set up I can hit one of them up.


Thank you!
 
Here's where I get confused--

Just breathe. ;) Get the measurements. They'll determine what parts we can help you pick. We'll go from there once you have the measurements.

As far as Saberforge goes, I haven't looked at them much, but a 1" blade is a 1" blade, a 7/8" blade is a 7/8" blade... as far as the O.D. goes anyway. There are thin and thick walled versions of each diameter to choose from and each has a benefit and a drawback. Thick blades are more robust for dueling, but aren't as bright as thin-walled blades. Thin blades are brighter, but won't hold up well under heavy dueling. Tap-tap-tap with thin-walled blades will be just fine, just no 'CONAN SMASH' swings like you could with a thick-walled blade.

Buttons and Ports in Portholes... totally doable! Measure where they're at.

Now, get the measurements. Think 'DRAW A BLUEPRINT'. Even if your drawing skills are atrocious, a detailed diagram of measurements is essential!!!
 
I went to art school. My drawing skillz are excellent. I'm waiting on a few parts I've already order to arrive, then I'm on it!

Oh, and I won't be dueling or cosplaying, just wall porn for my office.
 
Thin-walled blade it is then! See that was easy, one part of one part mostly done!

Pick Round or Bullet for your tip. Pick your length if you want it precut, or get the full 40" and cut it yourself. Pick clear or trans-white for your blade...well, maybe. What color of light do you want your blade to have when it's lit? Some of the colored blades (the actual tube part) have some really neat effects when lit, but look a tad gauche when not lit and stuck up on a wall.
 
I saw a plug and play all in one unit on Saberforge that let's you pick any color on start up-- but it was also over $300 and that's a lot of money for something Ill turn on once ever couple weeks.

The use of thick pointed blades in TFA and TLJ, and the bullet tips of the PT are all things I dislike. I'd love a tapered point like the OT, but rounded would be fine for me. Color I'll have to think about... but probably orange, purple, or red.
 
Happy to throw in my experience here too :) Really wouldnt use anything saberforge and definitely not their electronics, the machining isn't great and the threaded sections tend to be too short. A nano biscotte v4 sound board sounds like it'd be ideal for your requirements and the manual is pretty good with some great wiring diagrams, TCSS also sell a cutting mat with NB4 diagrams printed right onto it :) I can give you an exact list of what you'd need electronics-wise if you need.

Thin walled blade is the way to go, they can still stand up to a lot of punishment and you really only need a thick walled if you want to break some bones :)

A picture of the flash you're working with would help us work out what you'll need mechanically and if you've got calipers for measurements I can design and print you a chassis :)
 
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Thanks guys! I'm on the body and will get some calipers tomorrow!

Oh, and if it isn't a pain in the ass, I'd love for the activation button to be lit too.

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Awesome-- this will totally help, thanks!
 
Thanks guys! I'm on the body and will get some calipers tomorrow!

Oh, and if it isn't a pain in the ass, I'd love for the activation button to be lit too.

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Awesome-- this will totally help, thanks!

You're welcome! Don't hesitate to ask questions. I've been building FX sabers since 2013 and I'm studying electrical engineering in college.
 
I'm sure he'll appreciate it. I expect quite a few members will lend a hand here!


What's this @halliwax ?


https://www.ebay.com/itm/28-AWG-Sil...feet-7-strand-Audio-made-in-USA-/381788922411

for when you get to that part @SethS ! He has several solid colors too!

Scarecrow hooked me up with this site
https://powerwerx.com/ptfe-high-temperature-stranded-wire

I’m currently building a 2.0 for a friend of mine, metal goth chassis, prizm 5.1

We will see how this goes, fingers crossed... eyes crossed too
 
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You're welcome! Don't hesitate to ask questions. I've been building FX sabers since 2013 and I'm studying electrical engineering in college.

The lightsaber in your sig is actually very close to one of the two designs I'm considering
 
Prizm 5.1
18650 battery
NE-crew led
2 tactile switches
28mm 2w speaker
Military spec wire
Soldier and wire strippers and call it good!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'd say Prizm's probably overkill, more complex and expensive than a nano :)
18650 battery is ideal
NECree is just Naigon's name for his RGB Tri Cree XPE2, if he wants single colour or purple I think he'd be better off doubling up a colour and having the third die available if he wants to add FoC later :)
TCSS sells led momentary tact switches in a variety of colours
Yup, 28mm speaker
Make sure you get wire that can handle 2A for the LED wires
Make sure you get an ESD safe soldering iron.
 
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