Been all over the web, read all the material. And still I can't seem to get rid of the annoying seams where two parts join together. I am currently working on a BSG viper and the seam that goes along the whole fuselage will just not disappear no matter how hard I try to sand, putty, fill the gaps with superglue ect. Is there some super secrete trick I am missing when it comes to getting rid of fuselage seams? I've had success getting rid of part seams on plenty of other kits, but for some reason the 1/32 BSG viper and 1/72 vipers fuselage seam is particularly stubborn (yes I can't get rid of that seam in both scales). Are there some kits that are just more stubborn than others when it comes to getting rid of the seam where two parts meet? Something to do with maybe the plastic? The plastic on both kits is kinda on the thick side.
Eliminating seams (particularly on the BSG mkII viper.)
- Thread starter JLKahn
- Start date
Was afraid that might be the only answer. Also I wonder if it's the type of paint I'm using. I'm told acrylic dries thinner than enamel. I know enamel, other than taking a long time to dry and being really toxic, can also obscure surface detail. So I'm wondering is it a better type of paint to use when trying to get rid of really nasty difficult seams?
I find that the flexifile system is good for eliminating seams, worked across the seam and progressively along, but it is always fill, prime, sand. . .really. Using different colours of primer can make it easier to identify high and low spots. Finding the right filler makes the process less tedious, try to use something that sands like the kit's material. Cyano can create hard spots and some popular model fillers are soft enough to crumble, leaving you repairing the filled area. Car body putty is usually fine for shallow fills ( best to avoid cellulose ones) and two part putties best for deeper fills. You may find the you tube videos from aircraft and military modellers helpful.
Interesting. I definitely think the biggest problem I am having is the plastic not being hard enough by the time I start sanding. I suppose I should cement the parts and then plan to wait a few days on areas where the elimination of the seam is critical. I guess there is no fast way to get things accomplished if you want a great model. What are peoples preferred cements here? For the longest time I used Testor's model master, but I recently started experimenting around with other brands like squadron and tamaya. Squadron and Tamaya definitely seem to dry very fast, but sometimes the cement evaporates before I can even close the parts up!
One thing that has worked for me is hand painting the seam with a brush and hand sanding the paint down... but usually i use spot glazing putty and sanding. ..
GF
Sr Member
I use plastruct cement, just hold parts togheter and apply with supplied brush over seam it actually welds the parts togheter via capillary action, it bascially dries within seconds, the seam is so minimal not much putty/sanding is required, BTW is this a Moebius kit or the revell? I had no issues with my Moebius kit.
you can see my build here:
https://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=233883&highlight=moebius+viper+finished
GFollano
you can see my build here:
https://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=233883&highlight=moebius+viper+finished
GFollano
