An elegant weapon for a more civilized age

Roy is working on getting the best possible deal on metal replica MPP shrouds including wrinkle painted ... so bear with him :)

Chaim
 
Roy is working on getting the best possible deal on metal replica MPP shrouds including wrinkle painted ... so bear with him :)

Chaim

Oh yeah :D sounds great, and I am in no hurry. Aiming for a full Vader suit before EP9 comes out :p
I was going to do wrinkle paint on the Parks shroud, but then I noticed the not so accurate D-ring and decided to just sell it.
 
More elegant weapons! :) Custsaber2.jpg

ObiTril.jpg
ANH Obi-Wan
My 10 year old "Obi inspired"
TPM Obi-Wan

RustyObi1.jpg View attachment RustyObi2.jpg
and some close ups of my distressing-in-progress, far from finished. No rust just an acrylic wash(red and tiny bit of yellow paint)
 
Excellent paintjob ... looks real rusty indeed ... about your pommel ... the hole for the D-ring should be around 4 o'clock in regards to the clamp ... not almost in line with the clamp ;)

Chaim
 
Excellent paintjob ... looks real rusty indeed ... about your pommel ... the hole for the D-ring should be around 4 o'clock in regards to the clamp ... not almost in line with the clamp ;)

Chaim

Thanks :D That I read :) I just put it together quickly in order to take some photos with my cellphone. I haven't even added the actual d-ring yet. And I have no idea what is "screen accurate" as far as the graflex clamp screws goes. Looking at other people's Obi sabers they differ in appearance. Should both screws look like the one I have attached or should the one that is missing NOT have the outer ring. Some sabers have it, on some it's missing :confused

Might be better to ask Roman directly but is the, um cylinder part between the emitter and the grenade supposed to lose? :unsure
lose.jpg
 
That is called the 'windvane' and yes it should be able to rotate ... as for the 'screws' you mean 'transistors' ... well the Tunesia OB1 saber had the same 2 still on completely, whereas the one OB1 saber in Mechanismo/Chronicles book had the first transistor without a 'washer' attached.

Chaim
 
If the windwane is too loose then you could place a small piece of tape on the shaft and screw the vane over it. That is what I did.

BTW. It seems that the grenade is on backwards in these pics. The beveled end should be at the top. ;)
 
Added some more fake rust to another.... part of the saber and I think the "rust texture" is a lot better than what I achieved on the grenade. I also flipped the grenade around :$
I skipped my cellphone and used my Nikon instead.

View attachment morerust.jpg
Different lighting setups for each of the full photos.

If the windwane is too loose then you could place a small piece of tape on the shaft and screw the vane over it. That is what I did.

BTW. It seems that the grenade is on backwards in these pics. The beveled end should be at the top. ;)

Great idea :D
Amen, va faa-aan :facepalm GO ME :lol

That is called the 'windvane' and yes it should be able to rotate ... as for the 'screws' you mean 'transistors' ... well the Tunesia OB1 saber had the same 2 still on completely, whereas the one OB1 saber in Mechanismo/Chronicles book had the first transistor without a 'washer' attached.

Chaim

transistors huh? Okay :p "transistors" it is. I guess I will go with both washers attached. Dank je :D
 
More Obi-Wan Kenobi goodness:
owklightup1.jpg
Finally added the D-ring and also added a lot more weathering.
owkdetails1.jpgowkdetails2.jpgowkdetails3.jpgowkdetails4.jpg

Checking out how it looks with a different pommel
owkPommel1.jpgowkPommel2.jpg

And a none-lightsaber related xmas gift from myself to me:
isd-hdr.jpg
I haven't done many model kits in my years, so this fiarly simple and very straight forward kit was very nice :)
Will post a few beauty shots after I have added the necessary CG setting for it.
 
R.I.P. Carrie :(

modelisd.jpg
Took these three photos and animated them:

isd-xwings1.jpg isd-xwings2.jpg

I must say, the model does hold up better than I expected.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Finally added the circuit board under the bubble strip. After carefully using my dremel to cut it down to the right size. And then sand the bubble strip a little, in order for them to actually fit in the clamp.

vaderclamp2.jpg vaderclamp1.jpg

:D
 
This thread is more than 7 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top