Hero Phaser Scratchbuild

I am so sick and tired of paint. I had the shop make up paint is satin finish. The little finger dab on the lid is satin. The test swatch I sprayed is satin. I spray the phaser and it dries gloss. GLOSS!!! What am I doing wrong? What manner of beast must I slay to appease the paint gods?

Great colors though, go figure.
P1040131_zpss2ltdntm.jpg
 
I am so sick and tired of paint. I had the shop make up paint is satin finish. The little finger dab on the lid is satin. The test swatch I sprayed is satin. I spray the phaser and it dries gloss. GLOSS!!! What am I doing wrong? What manner of beast must I slay to appease the paint gods?

Great colors though, go figure.
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/... Phaser Scratchbuild/P1040131_zpss2ltdntm.jpg

Robn1 I think the gloss looks good. The paint on the p2 looks just like the Krylon shadow grey paint. What are the magical colors?:p
 
Robn1 I think the gloss looks good. The paint on the p2 looks just like the Krylon shadow grey paint. What are the magical colors?:p

I made a chip with the Krylon and the shop matched it, not exact but very close. The guy just mixed colors by hand until he had it.
 
I like gloss better than satin so I think it looks great.

If you don't like the gloss look can't you spray over it with a satin clear coat?
 
Mixed the paint with the correct ratio? Too much catalyst will gloss it out, so will going to heat too soon

Yes, 4-1 as specified by the shop. The P2 color was fine when I sprayed a test sample last year. The P1 is a week old, and the spot on the lid was fine. But both now dry as a high gloss. I did another test at 8-1 and it's also gloss. I'll just have to get some extra flattening agent from the shop.

Yes I can clear coat it but that presents the same problem, it has to be flattened to make it satin. And I specifically went with 2K car paints because they are tough enough on their own and I want to avoid the extra step.
 
Been following this thread for a while -- you seem to have an eye for even the smallest detail. Curious, on your pistol nozzle, the indents seem to have an additional groove machined/cut into the center ring section -- these are seen on the rectangular areas that separate the ribbed/grooved rectangular sections. I have never seen this detail on nozzle before -- is this something you discovered on photo reference?
 
@DrMcoy, I think what you're seeing there is just a pencil line I used as a reference point when fitting the tip extender. That will be gone after I sand down those round machine marks.

The paint shop was closed for Labor Day so I couldn't go back until today. They helped me out with a few things: acetone and lacquer thinner are fine for cleaning the gun but are not suited for thinning, so they gave me a small can of the proper reducer. Also even though the paint has a long shelf life the flattener can evaporate out of even a closed can, so they gave me extra flattener as well.

Now I get to sand these down again, the most funnest thing ever :wacko
 
One thing I can say about this paint, it takes a lot more work to strip it back. I was afraid to do too much sanding on it for fear of going too far and damaging the parts. Rubbing with a rag soaked with acetone didn't seem to have much effect either, but after a few minutes the paint was soft enough to scrape off. Once a small spot was cleared the acetone became more effective, it was slow going but I eventually got it all off. Of course it also took off the primer and some of the putty that was underneath, pretty much leaving me with bare shells.

I had to touch up where the putty had been removed. The P1 has been done and reprimed, the P2 is almost done. Another day or two and I'll be ready to repaint.
 
Curious, on your pistol nozzle, the indents seem to have an additional groove machined/cut into the center ring section -- these are seen on the rectangular areas that separate the ribbed/grooved rectangular sections. I have never seen this detail on nozzle before -- is this something you discovered on photo reference?

I thought I saw that too; but after studying robn1's photos, I believe what we are seeing is just a trick of the light playing on machining marks where the mill bit was spinning to cut the flat areas between the grooved areas.

Fantastic build report!
 
I thought I saw that too; but after studying robn1's photos, I believe what we are seeing is just a trick of the light playing on machining marks where the mill bit was spinning to cut the flat areas between the grooved areas.

Fantastic build report!

I have a bunch of nozzles with the same markings. They're not a trick of the lite. I think I got the nozzles from dstines a few years ago. Perhaps he's the source of robn1's nozzle too.
 
This is awesome! I sincerely hope all this hard work leads to some kits in the future, because this is one I would LOVE to have!
 
I spent some time working with the paint and I have it performing as I like now. It needs to be thinned and have extra flattener added. I repainted the P1 a few days ago and the P2 today, I'll have pics in a couple days when it's fully dry. It still needs three days to reach full cure before it's safe to handle.
 
I spent some time working with the paint and I have it performing as I like now. It needs to be thinned and have extra flattener added. I repainted the P1 a few days ago and the P2 today, I'll have pics in a couple days when it's fully dry. It still needs three days to reach full cure before it's safe to handle.
WOOHOO!!!
(y)thumbsup(y)thumbsup(y)thumbsup(y)thumbsup(y)thumbsup:thumbsup
 

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