Darth Vader ESB saber help

merkava74

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
So, first off, please don't flame me for this post. I am currently building a full Darth Vader ESB display, and I am now at the saber bit. It's going to be hung on his belt, so I need one without the blade. I have searched these pages, and have discovered that I have next to no knowledge on what makes a saber (heiland, graflex, MPP, D rings, bulb releases etc etc).

So I am seeking the help of members here to point me in the right direction.

Here's what I've gathered my options are so far:

1. MR in the market: 2005 Force FX. Seems to be the one. Don't think I wanna spend the money to get the Signature Series with the removable blade. Anyway, didn't seem to find any on auction. So it might be get the normal one and remove the blade permanently, rendering it unusable, but still don't know what I'm supposed to stuff into the hole where the blade once was.

2. Fan-made. If I am not going for the MR with bells and whistles, what are my prospects of getting a fan made one that is as close to the actual prop as possible. Are there any runs on this?

3. Self-made. Now being the lazy sod that I am, is there a grocery list of things that I need, are they readily available, and in the assembly stage, what kind of skills do I need to put it all together?

4. Any other paths I have not considered?

Thanks in advance!
 
1. The MR/Hasbro signature series with removable blade is the ANH version not ESB ... you'd need to attach longer grips available by Roy and some wires ... but once the blade is removed you're as good to go.

2. Then there's the one MPP replica made by Parks ... also offered by JQsabers in the UK but currently out of stock for a while ... yet Parks delivery times are irratic.

3. For a selfmade you either need to find a true MPP flashgun and need deep pockets to purchase ... or you could seek out a Heiland flashgun which is not screen-used but could be slightly altered into a believable Vader saber with additional parts from Roy.

4. So thats said use some of the items I mentioned in the 'search feature' before you commit to purchase anything.

Chaim
 
Thanks Chaim! Very useful information. I read further after posting, and found Roy and Parks.

Decided to go with the self-made route, so I ordered an ESB kit from Roy, and got an MPP shroud from custom sabers. Shot an email to Parks about the MPP replica, but sensing from the discussions here, that seems to be somewhat of a slim chance and a long wait. Couldn't find an original MPP on auction even if I had deep pockets...

Didn't quite like the Heiland one as it had so many wordings and markings on it.

So I'm pretty much set except for the MPP.

Anyone has one lying around?


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Not only is the MPP expensive, it is one of the more rare pieces I have tracked. I've seen fewer than 10 available in the last 12 months, either alone or in a whole camera kit.
 
The Heiland option is probably the best way to go. I picked up mine for 50 bucks, the kit from Roy over at his site was $90, and it was fairly easy to assemble myself. Mine is currently a static prop, so it's a pretty cheap way to go if you can find a good deal.

Here's mine
20151121_162900.jpg
 
In my dealings with Parks, phone calls are more likely to be responded to than emails ever will.
If you call and enquire about the MPP replica, he should be able to give you a realistic time frame for delivering one.
Mine took almost 4 months but for a replica, it's worth it. Good quality build and with Roy's parts you'll have a legit looking saber.

If having a vintage piece is important, its Heiland now, or the arduous hunt for a real MPP.
That's a nice Heiland conversion above!

Good luck on your quest.
 
The Heiland will probably be the only thing you can find in a reasonable amount of time and affordable. A real MPP will go for over $1000 USD. Watch ebay and the junkyard and you might find a parks replica.
 
If you ordered Roy's ESB kit and a clamp from custom sabershop ... the only realistic option would be a Heiland conversion ... just read some threads about those because the endcap comes in 2 variations ... the hexagonal one is not what you seek for Vader's lightsaber :wacko ... Indeed the last MPP I've seen with a wrong shroud went just over $1000 ... those are quite rare to find. Heiland is the more sensible option ... or waiting for a Parks replica :)

Chaim
 
Thanks guys! Now I know what I'm up against. Time and luck.

Will probably go with the Heiland, until I find something better.

I'm looking to make a saber that looks like the real prop. I guess there are different levels of realism in that: being the actual prop; using the actual materials used for the prop; or just looking like it. :)



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I picked up a Heiland a few months ago, unfortunately w/wrong endcap. I have been looking for correct one, but w/inflation of prices due to movie coming, it's been really hard to continue the build. I recently, and hesitantly, pulled the trigger on a 2-cell on the evil-bay. When it arrived, I was disappointed that the end cap is silver instead of chrome. It resembles the correct endcap, but it is slightly different w/no HR on bottom, but a small hole w/flat surface. When putting the flash together, the difference in color is very noticeable. My only option now is chroming/plating, making my build more expensive than I planned.

So, if you have the patience, either Heiland or Parks are great choices. Heiland, if you're lucky, you may find one w/correct endcap.

As for Roy's kits, they are great! Once I find correct endcap, I definitely will order other kits as well.
 
I'm leaning definitely more to getting a Parks than a Heiland. Looking real to me is still better than looking like. :)


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phunkymunky ... if you're going for a ANH Vader saber you'd need 7 grips ... and when added the discoloration between the endcap and rest of the body might be not so apparent thus no need for re-chroming ;)

merkava74 ... with the parts from Roy ... a Heiland conversion is quite easy ... all you need is find the correct Heiland parts and we are here to assist if need be :)

Chaim
 
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If you're not worried about time, go for the Parks! It'll give you more time to work on other parts of your project in the meantime.

Side question: is your username a reference to a certain Israeli tank?
 
Sym-Cha Hmm, never really thought of that. Will definitely consider this option, once I finish complete one of the other sabers on my workbench, lol. I hate waiting around to finding these pieces little by little. Patience is not easy for me.
 
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If you're not worried about time, go for the Parks! It'll give you more time to work on other parts of your project in the meantime.

Side question: is your username a reference to a certain Israeli tank?

Took your advise and ordered a Parks. :)

Yes, my username is based on that israeli chariot. :)
 
A couple more questions.

What is the length of the ESB saber? I am seeing some Heiland synchronar 3-cell ones on auction that states 10" and 12". Which is correct? The 12" one seems wrong as it has the octagonal end cap, while the 10" one looks right, but no close up photo of it.

Silly question on the Parks replica. Why does he produce it with the MPP nameplate? Shouldn't that be removed?

And I have a question on my purchase. Parks' saber site is not really clear. Apparently I purchased a MPP, and the photos showed this: http://www.parksabers.com/mpp.html, which comes with grips and is the ANH version. From those who have purchased in the past, can you share what was the product that was delivered? I don't want the grips or anything, as those will be from customsabershop and Roy.... confused...
 
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My understanding is that Parks made his base replica accurate down to every detail so that they could even be used as a working flash as well a light saber prop. A real MPP was used (from a member here) as a model which included the name plate. I've read that there were two different saber props used on ANH and heard that one still had the name on it but I don't know for sure on that. Maybe someone here can shed light on this point.

As to what you'll get, that photo is accurate. The grips are just soft rubber held on with some glue. They are easily pulled off by hand so you'll be able to apply the rigid grips with no problem.

I converted my Parks into an ESB and kept the plate on because I like the look of it and it's origin.

I was lucky enough to get a real MPP recently which will be an ANH without the plate.

Enjoy your build!
 
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