New BMF coming

TronGod · Dec 8, 2014

Jaitea said:
Yes this part is pretty accurate for the 32"

are you gonna re-do the pipework?

Looking really good! Nice job!

As for me...Hmmm not sure.. Right now I made sure I could attach the old pipes back together. Once I get everything cut out I will have to figure out what I'm doing to them. Still looking at those 4 front holes...some of this stuff is not easy to get to on the underside. Also, not really sure if Im doing this to the bottom of the ship. (Maybe thats being too lazy?)

I think the big win here is seeing the thin walls overhang the details. It makes the ship look so much more detailed.

The next thing I'm sorta...kinda..considering is pasting on new hull plates (thin layer) over the current ones. It might be too much work to be worthwhile, but I would expect it would make the panels pop more than they do now.

spacebob · Dec 8, 2014

Thanks for posting pics TronGod I have already cut my triangle bits out and cut out their little walls I'll pos a pic later, it works well

Hunk a Junk · Dec 8, 2014

TronGod said:
In one shot you can see the RESIN I've used to keep the hull strong.

What kind of resin did you use?

PHArchivist · Dec 8, 2014

TronGod said:
The next thing I'm sorta...kinda..considering is pasting on new hull plates (thin layer) over the current ones. It might be too much work to be worthwhile, but I would expect it would make the panels pop more than they do now.

ALL of them? or just the missing ones? Cutting each panel would be difficult enough if they all had stright edges. With the little cut-outs along all the edges, you'll go mad...

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Hunk a Junk said:
What kind of resin did you use?

He cites it earlier in the thread...

spacebob · Dec 8, 2014

Does anyone know what I could use as mold release agent without going to a specialist? Maybe an oil or something?

Jaitea · Dec 8, 2014

It's probably the wrong product, but I use the car back to black silicone spray

J

TronGod · Dec 8, 2014

Hunk a Junk said:
What kind of resin did you use?

I was using MagicSculp. (two-part epoxy putty)
They recommend you use a thin coat of glue when using with plastic.I didn't so far and its stuck in there pretty darn good..however..I can see if you pushed hard on the plastic it would tend to want to pop out..Tho apply enough pressure your going to break anything. The 2 spots I used it on are pretty solid. When I cut the sidewalls out, it did slightly come loose at the edges, but easy to slide some glue in there and make it good. I think the key is here, the more nooks you get this stuff pushed into, its going to want to lock into place and not come out.

Anyhow..back to the goo..you mix the 2 parts together and you can use your hands to sculp it, or in this case push it into a thin layer on the inside. It doesn't get hot..doesn't shrink, and it easy to sand and cut. Water thins it out and makes it easy to work with.

Heres the Company bs on it...
Magic Sculp the two-part epoxy putty specifically designed to meet the needs of modelers, crafters and sculptors alike. One of the only epoxies that will smooth out with water. Its grain structure is finer than any other product available and will not shrink or crack even when formed in large structures. It can be shaped by hand or with modeling tools, sanded, carved, painted; you can attack it with a grinding tool and the cured material will not break apart or lose its shape. Magic Sculp will cure at room temperature.

Hunk a Junk · Dec 8, 2014

Thanks, TronGod! I'm building an internal armature with ribs to increase the hull curvature, so I may do this between the ribs to avoid any bowing.

TronGod · Dec 8, 2014

spacebob said:
Does anyone know what I could use as mold release agent without going to a specialist? Maybe an oil or something?

Hmm I think Baby Powder works... It's been awhile since I've molded anything..but I recall using that.

Hmm some random internet page agrees with me:

Using baby powder as a mold release serves a couple of functions. First of all, air bubbles will not stick to the surface of your mold because they have nothing to grab onto; the baby powder helps to prevent this. Secondly it will help you with the de-molding of your mold. Pour some baby powder onto your mold's surface and use a brush to work it into all of the detail. Then use an air compressor (or canned air) to blow the whole surface off (mouse over the left picture). You can see that a light baby powder residue will remain, however this will not interrupt all the detail of your sculpt being represented by your casting, because the powder will absorb your material. I'd like to point out that this step is not necessary if you are just looking for a couple of castings, but if you do use a mold release it will significantly increase the amount of copy's that you can get from your mold (especially if your sculpt has a lot of intricate detail).

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Hunk a Junk said:
Thanks, TronGod! I'm building an internal armature with ribs to increase the hull curvature, so I may do this between the ribs to avoid any bowing.

What I would do is build your awesome internals...then use this resin/epoxy stuff to cram into all the nooks and get a snug fit everywhere.

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PHArchivist said:
ALL of them? or just the missing ones? Cutting each panel would be difficult enough if they all had stright edges. With the little cut-outs along all the edges, you'll go mad...

Well I'm doing the missing ones for sure... was actually thinking about the going mad version too... The big problem would be I would have to cut off all the tiny bits tho on top of a lot of the panels...saving this call for much later

I think part of me is afraid to paint this god-forsaken plastic goo this is made out of.

Hunk a Junk · Dec 8, 2014

TronGod said:
What I would do is build your awesome internals...then use this resin/epoxy stuff to cram into all the nooks and get a snug fit everywhere.

That's a good plan. The model is going to weigh a ton when it's done, so I'm going to need a solid base!

TronGod · Dec 8, 2014

Hunk a Junk said:
That's a good plan. The model is going to weigh a ton when it's done, so I'm going to need a solid base!

Small warning... The epoxy does add weight. I made a mask that ended up mostly using this stuff and it got a little heavy. However other than that...it's pretty freaking cool stuff.

spacebob · Dec 8, 2014

Thanks guys, I've got a really nice idea for making super thin engine vent casts that would mean you don't need to cut out the old ones, I should get time tonight to try

Jaitea · Dec 8, 2014

spacebob said:
Thanks guys, I've got a really nice idea for making super thin engine vent casts that would mean you don't need to cut out the old ones, I should get time tonight to try

Any new progress pics?

J

PHArchivist · Dec 8, 2014

TronGod said:
I was using MagicSculp. (two-part epoxy putty)
They recommend you use a thin coat of glue when using with plastic.I didn't so far and its stuck in there pretty darn good..however..I can see if you pushed hard on the plastic it would tend to want to pop out..Tho apply enough pressure your going to break anything. The 2 spots I used it on are pretty solid. When I cut the sidewalls out, it did slightly come loose at the edges, but easy to slide some glue in there and make it good. I think the key is here, the more nooks you get this stuff pushed into, its going to want to lock into place and not come out.

Anyhow..back to the goo..you mix the 2 parts together and you can use your hands to sculp it, or in this case push it into a thin layer on the inside. It doesn't get hot..doesn't shrink, and it easy to sand and cut. Water thins it out and makes it easy to work with.

Heres the Company bs on it...
Magic Sculp the two-part epoxy putty specifically designed to meet the needs of modelers, crafters and sculptors alike. One of the only epoxies that will smooth out with water. Its grain structure is finer than any other product available and will not shrink or crack even when formed in large structures. It can be shaped by hand or with modeling tools, sanded, carved, painted; you can attack it with a grinding tool and the cured material will not break apart or lose its shape. Magic Sculp will cure at room temperature.

Sounds a lot like Apoxie Sculpt, which claims to stick to Teflon... Not really a resin; more so a sculpting compound.

PHArchivist · Dec 8, 2014

TronGod said:
Well I'm doing the missing ones for sure... was actually thinking about the going mad version too... The big problem would be I would have to cut off all the tiny bits tho on top of a lot of the panels...saving this call for much later I think part of me is afraid to paint this god-forsaken plastic goo this is made out of.

I would leave it alone.

Frankly, the molded in panels are essentioinally the same as the MR and/or original. Nor reaally much less pronounced. Ane every millimeter of every edge of every plate you create will need to match perfectly.

All factored, you won't get the ROI for your time.

Do the missing panels, but for the rest, let them go... My thoughts anyway.

GeneralFROSTY · Dec 8, 2014

I'm going to be painting mine somewhat straight out of the box, with the exception of the side wall upgrades I won't be doing extensive modding.

Fortunately, I have an unbuilt mpc kit stashed away that I will use to practice and experiment my techniques on.

There seems to not be a clear idea on what to do for the base color, so I'll be trying out a few and see which I like.
I know I can mix up a great "Starship Gray" here at the shop as the base color, but I also want to try the black basecoat/light mist of white technique.
I also have a few filters from MIG Productions I am itching to experiment with, so if I go stark white to start off with, I may filter the whole thing to my liking.
I figured the overall color will change so much during the weathering process it may be best to start with a white base coat as apposed to trying to match the gray. After all the weathering, the final look may appear too dark.

spacebob · Dec 8, 2014

Sounds good to me General frosty will you be starting soon?
And Jaitea I won't have pics till about 9 tonight

GeneralFROSTY · Dec 8, 2014

spacebob said:
Sounds good to me General frosty will you be starting soon?
And @Jaitea I won't have pics till about 9 tonight

I'll be starting my experiments on the mpc kit soon. The big boy will have to wait for the resin upgrade parts to become available, I'm never very happy with the printed parts and the prices they demand.

PHArchivist · Dec 8, 2014

GeneralFROSTY said:
I also have a few filters from MIG Productions I am itching to experiment with, so if I go stark white to start off with, I may filter the whole thing to my liking.

I figured the overall color will change so much during the weathering process it may be best to start with a white base coat as apposed to trying to match the gray. After all the weathering, the final look may appear too dark.

Totally agree on white. Plus, if you add clear coat to seal in weathering, it will likely yellow slightly. As long as its not too heavy, then the clear coat yellowing will also add a nice patina.

The X-Wing pics I posted earlier (post #939) in this thread were solid white to start off.

Also, MR published some very nice promo shots where the model looks particularly white under all the weathering, and personaly I think it looks great.

GeneralFROSTY · Dec 8, 2014

PHArchivist said:
Totally agree on white. Plus, if you add clear coat to seal in weathering, it will likely yellow slightly. As long as its not too heavy, then the clear coat yellowing will also add a nice patina.

The X-Wing pics I posted earlier (post #939) in this thread were solid white to start off.

Also, MR published some very nice promo shots where the model looks particularly white under all the weathering, and personaly I think it looks great.

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Great pics. That color is so elusive, I like to call it "Edge of white gray", or the cooler term "Starship gray".

I think the black primer/white mist layer will do the trick. Going on light with the white also means all those details will have this shadowed effect from the black coat.

New BMF coming

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