The 900th thread about modding a Black Series Kylo Ren Helmet w/ Disney upgrade

I'm located in ground zero for the massive blizzard that supposed to drop tonight, so I HIGHLY doubt I'll be getting to the shop tomorrow to work on the helmet. However, I will be working on the voice module a bit, and using my dremel at home to make some adjustments on the chrome filigree piece during snowpocalypse. I'll have at least a small update for everyone in a couple days.
 
...you had me at "Sexy Nerf Herder"... :p

Seriously though, the thorough (and humorous) descriptions are a great help to those of us who are following the trail you are blazing. Perhaps Doritos shall be served?
May you have more patience than Kylo working on a Rubik's Cube in the dark, blindfolded.
 
The Kylo Ren Helmet Holiday Special


I unfortunately don’t have much progress to show this week, as my area was hit with the blizzard from hell. As such, I was not able to get to my friend’s workshop, and I was all out of the supplies I needed in my home shop to do what I wanted to do, nor could I get out to a store to get the supplies. However, with Dremel in hand, I was able to do some more modifications on the chrome filigree part of the helmet.


As I’ve pointed out before, there are parts of the helmet here and there, were radii were altered a tad so that the injection molded plastic could be extracted from the mold without undercuts or the need for multiple parts (thus the reason for needing to add on the Disney parts, as the BS mouth was flattened and simplified).
As such, the ventilation holes in filigree piece need to be opened up a bit to have their proper shapes, and a few missing ones need to be drilled out. Now, you could just remove the black plastic part from the inside of the helmet that plug those holes, back then with black fabric, and call it a day like most people do, but that's not good enough for me. I want them to be as accurately shaped and thinned out as possible.

Here are the unaltered holes as they come with too much extra plastic:

Face Holes 2.jpg

And the rough shape they'll need to be opened to:
Face Holes 1.jpg


The first thing I did was go in from behind (giggity) with a sanding drum on my Dremel and take down the raised areas, and thinned out the plastic in some others.
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Unfortunately, I got a little too over zealous by the temples and took off too much. I’ll have to go in with some Bondo or miliput and fill some of that back in. Derp. Next, I went in with some jewelers files, refined the shapes and sharpened up everything. Of course these holes will be backed with opaque but breathable cloth later on. Still got some detail sanding to do, but here's how the holes should look for the most part:
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And a little sneak peak of what to expect in the next full episode:
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A friend with 4 wheel drive got me across town yesterday. I bought the very best putty and glaze on the market from a professional auto body and paint supply shop.. I want to lessen the chances as much as possible of bad mix reactions, and the stuff not sticking as well as possible to this oh so infuriating plastic. This is just a personal preference. I’m not saying you can’t use a $9 can of Bondo from the hardware store. It’ll work if you prep things right. This is just for added security and strength. The putty is essentially Bondo infused with fiberglass. This will be used to strengthen the helmet from the inside. The two part glaze is what I’ll be using to resurface the outside of the helmet to hide the seams and get rid of that awful inaccurate wavy texture. If you’re on a budget, standard one part, air dry glazing putty will give you similar results. But more on that later...

Face Holes 1.jpg


Face Holes 2.jpg


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Episode IV: A New Rope (to hang myself)

Sorry for the delay in a new episode. Had to adult for a while. When we last left our hero (me), I had corrected the ventilation holes in the chrome filigree part. Now it is time to attach the cut to hell jowl piece from the Disney mask. I do this with obscene amounts of 5 minute epoxy in several stages and application, using my own grubby hands as clamps, because I just didn't trust clamps in this instance. I wanted to monitor and adjust the positioning the entire time the glue was curing. This is THE hardest part of the entire mod. If you do this, be prepared for lots of swearing. I actually snapped the whole piece off and filed off the glue the first time because I wasn't happy with how it was sitting.

Here's the jowl piece (which I've named as such because when everything it together, all you can see of it is in the jowl area). There was SO SO SO much fine sanding and filing to get this little a****** to sit against the bottom of the filigree as seamlessly as possible....which is to say, you'll see me filling giant gaps and seams in it later with putty:
20160117_155616.jpg

Here it is after (I think) the second glue application. You can see that the peg holes by the nose are super distorted. That's because I had to hit the piece with a heat gun to widen the radius of its arc a tad to get it to fit to the filigree piece. The very bottom corners of the BS filigree piece SHOULD be pinched in about 5mm deeper (another change made for molding purposes), but unfortunately, that is one accurizing fix I can't do...at least not without a solid week of work, so I had to compromise here and alter the jowl piece those 5mm instead to fit. Unless you have a screen used helmet held up right next to this one, that 5mm difference isn't noticeable.
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Here is the jowl piece attached after all glue applications (but before puttying), and the warped peg holes dremeled out so the pegs fit again. Just have that one big gap to deal with on the end. The other side (not pictured) lines up perfectly:
20160206_174947.jpg


After that nightmare, I decided to do something simple and hack apart some plastic to vent some aggression. I focused on the eyes. With my ventilation holes all fixed up, we need to remove the plastic bit that inexplicably plug them. However, we still need to retain some of the part, because it provides the accurate backing to the "tears", and makes the eye opening the proper size.

Vent plugs removed:
20160206_175041.jpg

Here's EXACTLY where you want to cut:
20160206_175129.jpg

I'll show the finished result later once I glue it in, but I didn't want to do that yet in case I had to make more mods to the area. Remember, I'm making this up as I go. lol

Speaking of which, I had to hack down the Disney cheek piece even more to get everything to fit perfectly when it's all sandwiched together. Here's how this part needs to be cut down.

The areas where the cheeks attach are now cut EXACTLY on the seam line to where it will attach to the BS (before I had excess plastic that I had intended to weld to the BS from the inside, but it just wouldn't allow me to line everything up right. Also, I cut off the nose area down to where the peg holes are, as it was pushing ever so gently against the backside of the chrome filigree piece.
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Aaaaaaaaand back to the filigree!

Half way through this next step, I made a VERY VERY hard decision. I've decided I am NOT going to preserve the vacuuplated chrome finish on the filigree. So while you'll be seeing everything protected in masking tape in these upcoming photos, I eventually tore it off and said screw it. Here's my rationale: 1. it'll make modding and blending so so much easier if I don't have to be so butt clenchingly precise. 2. The convex shape of the filigree on the forehead is inaccurate and annoying me, and I want to sand them down flatter. 3. Vacuuplated chrome is not accurate. The screen used helmet was cast resin and painted (POSSIBLY cold cast, but hard to say for sure). I'm just going to paint the silver on with a more accurate looking paint. It wasn't perfect gleaming chrome; it was just a highly polished metal look, which I can achieve with paint.

First thing I did was pix up my two part glazing putty and drizzled a little into the speaker holes (remember that I had the holes backed with hot glue earlier so the putty wouldn't just ooze out).
20160213_164145.jpg

And then a second application so that it sits higher than it should, so that I can then sand it flush later. Notice I filled in the hole where the helmet meets the filigree too. This is not necessary, as it's pretty much covered by the helmet, but at certain weird angles, I could see down into it, and that made my OCD twitch.
20160213_184741.jpg

Next I started filling in the seam to the jowl piece:
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And while I was there and had the materials out, I tossed a little into the vent holes I cut too much out of:
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SO SO SO SO SO SO much sanding later (minus the vent holes. still gotta do them, but need to do file work first):
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And lastly for this episode, reinforcing the helmet!

I mixed up a two part glass fiber infused body putty and VERY liberally applied it all over the seam, inside and out, and along the inside of the flair. Inside the flair is both for cosmetic reasons, but also to stiffen up the flimsy plastic. What great about this step is that it adds a very nice weight to the helmet. It feel like something tangible and real now, as opposed to lightweight cheap plastic...but not too heavy to feel uncomfortable if worn for several hours.

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And after sanding. If I hadn't had an air palm sander, I would quite possibly have gone mad.
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And the state of the union at the moment. Next up, FINALLY permanently attaching the Disney crap to the Hasbro crap, and then resurfacing the helmet! Stay tuned!
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"A new rope" to hang myself with! Lol yah I read you some times its hard to make progress when stuck on something! Great work!

Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk
 
Looking great! I'm thinking about using a bit more of the Disney piece (Pics 8&9 from your post), and seeing if I can use the front edge of the flare on that instead of the one on the BS one... it just seems a bit more substantial, but I may scrap that idea as I go.

I filled in the forehead speaker slots with black Apoxie Sculpt last night and it turned out great. Very easy to work with and I probably won't have to paint it.

You mentioned that you're not going to keep the original chrome finish. I know the Anovos version doesn't look so chrome-like but I like the shiny look it has. It's so hard to tell for sure... maybe just a coat of clear satin over it? Just thinking aloud. :)
 
Looking great! I'm thinking about using a bit more of the Disney piece (Pics 8&9 from your post), and seeing if I can use the front edge of the flare on that instead of the one on the BS one... it just seems a bit more substantial, but I may scrap that idea as I go.

I contemplated doing that at one point, but I decided not to. I forget why, but I'm sure there was a very good reason.


You mentioned that you're not going to keep the original chrome finish. I know the Anovos version doesn't look so chrome-like but I like the shiny look it has. It's so hard to tell for sure... maybe just a coat of clear satin over it? Just thinking aloud. :)

It'll still be chrome, but not the toyish looking plastic vacuuplate chrome.
 
I didn't buy the BS helmet for the voice changer. I bought it for its accuracy for price. While you can make some mods on the stock voice changer to make it mildly adequate, I'm just building my own with a voice modulator kit I bought online, and some other bits and bobs. That'll be covered later once I work out the bugs.


What I meant was... what are you going to do for the voice changer part. I bought another helmet. I am also going to gut it like you did. The most important thing to me is the voice changer. I have nearly a full costume... but nothing is worse than when someone in an awesome Vader comes to talk to you and it is a normal weak voice.

My plan was to buy some internal laptop speakers. Hook those up to a Bluetooth receiver.

Run a mic to cell phone with the Space Villain Voice Changer app (they are still working on it) https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.stereomatch.space.villain.talk

I just wonder if those laptop speakers will be loud enough. They would be the perfect size to fit into the helmet.

Just wondering how my plans matches up to your plans?
 
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