Sanding down the lines won't even affect the size by 1%, much less 5% if you are using a filler primer. Essentially you knock down the high spots with the sandpaper and fill in the low spots with the spray filler.
Sanding down the lines won't even affect the size by 1%, much less 5% if you are using a filler primer. Essentially you knock down the high spots with the sandpaper and fill in the low spots with the spray filler.
Partially finish this today still need to give a black wash to the top bit of the grenade. Overall very happy with the outcome and overall feel.
Much obliged Valcrow
Much obliged Valcrow
I finished painting mine this evening. I might do some more weathering on the clamp, but I feel this is finally presentable! The last picture is next to my Roman's Empire Obi-Wan saber for comparison's sake. I used some leftover TCSS calculator bubbles and a loose d-ring I had laying around, otherwise all the parts are 3D printed from Redicubricks. I repositioned the lever to sit a bit lower, too. Overall, I'm pretty happy with how this turned out.
Yeah, that looks great:thumbsup
Thanks for the compliments!Looks superb!! how did you get the metalic parts so smooth? I mean our prints are awesome, but not metal awesome
Those bubbles look fantastic too!
Filler primer, some spot putty, needle files to keep the edges as sharp as possible, and wet sanding. I used Rustoleum metallic gold for the windvane and dry brushed acrylic paint on top for the patina. The emitter and pommel were both done with Rustoleum metallic chrome. I weathered the emitter much the same as the windvane with dry brushed acrylic. I am most proud of the grenade and booster sections. After using filler primer and sanding the pieces, I sprayed them a matte brown color. I then dusted the parts with a bit of the chrome spray paint and dry brushed a dark gray acrylic on top of that. The result is that it looks like old rusty steel; nearly identical in appearance to my Roman's Empire replica (which is made from actual steel). As you turn the parts in the light, you can see the rusty brown in the crevices while bits of the chrome paint reflect light through the hazy acrylic paint. The effect is quite remarkable and the pics don't do it justice.
ForceSensitvAL
Active Member
This looks absolutely stunning. I have a Roman weathered on the way, but this looks like the perfect cosplay saber. I also would love to make this for a friend.
I have access to a Makerbot 2X at work, so I'll see what I can do with the simple version. Don't know if I can hog the printer for the complex version, though I'd really love to give that one a try. Huge thanks!
I have access to a Makerbot 2X at work, so I'll see what I can do with the simple version. Don't know if I can hog the printer for the complex version, though I'd really love to give that one a try. Huge thanks!
Maaaan, seeing that grenade alone makes me want to do a repaint of mine. Awesome work :thumbsup
Do the complex one but maybe only print a piece or 2 at a time, that way you're not hogging the printer and it will give you time to do a proper paint job on each piece.
ForceSensitvAL
Active Member
After looking over the STL files, this seems like the best plan of action. I'll space out the smaller pieces.
I want to dial in the settings. The Makerbot we use puts out somewhat rough surfaces, at least at default, even for a weathered piece. So the lines are pretty apparent. Anyone using PLA have any suggestions? Infill %, layer size, resolution?
Valcrow
Active Member
We usually do
0.06mm layer height
15% infill
0.8mm top/bottom layer thickness
0.8mm wall w/0.4 nozzle.
That's the big bummer about consumer-level 3d printers:the print lines. It's like the 3d printing equivalent of pixels. Filler primer (as opposed to regular old primer) helps a lot in conjunction with sanding to combat print lines. There are also several epoxy-like products that are supposed to aid in smoothing over the print lines, but I haven't had any practical experience with those so I can't attest to their effectiveness. Also, if you print in ABS plastic, you can put the pieces in an acetone vapor bath to minimize the appearance of print lines but you run the risk of losing detail. You can also use the print lines to your advantage. Depending on how you orient your pieces for printing, you can get the print lines to mimic what you'd get on a lathe. You'd want to still do some treatment to them, but the grenade, booster, windvane, and emitter pieces kinda look alright with a few visible print lines. I'll tell you this much: I spent a decent amount of time smoothing the pommel part to get rid of the lines, and I had to pay special attention not to blunt the sharp edges of the cubes too much, but it was soooo worth it in the end.
ForceSensitvAL
Active Member
That is exactly what I'm doing. I'm still in the middle of my alternating sanding and filler primer (and bondo). I'm only using SpazStix chrome on my "Facet Handle" piece as the original prop was also chrome. I planned on doing pewter Rub N Buff on the emitter and clamp....
I'm also sure that the SpazStix will not hold up to any weathering....
I've been wanting to try out SpazStix for a while. From what I understand, using an airbrush is the way to go (as opposed to rattle cans). I inherited an airbrush and compressor; I just need to learn how to use it. The pewter rub'n'buff would look pretty good on the emitter but I'm not sure about the clamp. I used silver leaf rub'n'buff on my clamp, actually, but if I were to do it over, I'd put aluminum tape over it and cut out the holes for a better finish (which I might do yet).
I used rub n buff on my clamp and emitter and it worked decently enough. With the rub n buff you need to make sure the parts you're painting are super clean of print lines; cause it's an oil it goes on thin. I did want to try the aluminum tape. It sounds like a great idea, but never went that route. I agree MCM best way is the airbrush if you have it.
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