Silicone Molding help

F

funkster

Well-Known Member
Hiya,

I am in the process of creating a replica of Deadpool’s Desert Eagles from DP2

I am creating a master, which I’m then going to mold and cold cast.

As I’m new to all this I’ve watched numerous tutorials on YouTube and most seem to do a 2 part mold.

It would seem logical to do this with the seam running down the centre of the gun

However, there will be lettering on the very end of the barrel (as you look at it) and a seam there will interfere with that.

Can anyone advise on a good way to mold this.

Thanks in advance

Noob at all this
 
Yes, the seam will interfere with that, but the only other way you can go about this would be to make a new master for the front of the gun and mould that separately. The best way is to make a two part mould and to sand away the seam, and re-engrave the lettering with a small tool.

TazMan2000
 
Re-engraving is not an option sadly

TazMan2000 said:
Yes, the seam will interfere with that, but the only other way you can go about this would be to make a new master for the front of the gun and mould that separately. The best way is to make a two part mould and to sand away the seam, and re-engrave the lettering with a small tool.

TazMan2000
Click to expand...
 
funkster said:
Re-engraving is not an option sadly
Click to expand...

I never said to have the engraving be optional. But there are limitations to moulding and casting. There are ways around getting detail moulded correctly, but it might involve another trade-off. Not all objects can be moulded and casted in a two part mould. How are you going to do the engraving on the master?

TazMan2000
 
I’ve had a metal plate, cut to size and then hand engraved.

That’s going to be added to the end and then blended in.
 
Not all two piece moulds have to be the mirror image of the other. You could always put the seam on the corner or a place that can be easily sanded and filled, so you don't have to worry about it ruining the engraving. You just have to ensure that your casting can be de-moulded without ripping apart your RTV.

TazMan2000
 
You can use a mold with the seam that runs around the edge of the barrel. Think of this: embed the master half way into a sheet of clay in the mold box. Then have a half cylinder of clay matching the cross section of the barrel extending off the end of the barrel, creating a hump that results in the parting line following the edge of the barrel.
Does that make sense?
Regards, Robert
 
What Robert said. And I assume you're using a solid rod of some type to keep the barrel hollow? IE steel or I like Teflon PTFE if you have a soft jaw vice or similar so you can pull it out of the castings without mangling it.
 
I think so.

I’m finding my brain isn’t good at thinking 3 dimensionally when it comes to molds.

Have already wasted a whole gallon unit of Mold Max on molds that went wrong :(

rbeach84 said:
You can use a mold with the seam that runs around the edge of the barrel. Think of this: embed the master half way into a sheet of clay in the mold box. Then have a half cylinder of clay matching the cross section of the barrel extending off the end of the barrel, creating a hump that results in the parting line following the edge of the barrel.
Does that make sense?
Regards, Robert
Click to expand...
 
I will be using something, yes.

logan74k said:
What Robert said. And I assume you're using a solid rod of some type to keep the barrel hollow? IE steel or I like Teflon PTFE if you have a soft jaw vice or similar so you can pull it out of the castings without mangling it.
Click to expand...
 
I would go look through smooth-on videos. I think the easiest thing to do, if it is a resin cast is to do 2 separate molds if you are really wanting the lettering on the barrel and do another mold of just that.

You can also do a single split mold but will be tricky with the trigger and trigger housing.
 
acesh007 said:
I would go look through smooth-on videos. I think the easiest thing to do, if it is a resin cast is to do 2 separate molds if you are really wanting the lettering on the barrel and do another mold of just that.
Click to expand...

Actually that’s a good plan.
Mold the metal plate, cast them and attach to each gun after they’ve been cast
 
Only drawback is possibly more complex engineering of the parts vice one solid casting. Advantage is the chance to incorporate more detail (just a rifling in the barrel interior, at least as far as it is visible... too deep and extraction becomes an issue.)

Sounds like an interesting project! I have a small task to cast a bunch of copies of enhanced kit parts (cannons) for a couple of 1/350 scale sailing ship models I'm building so this reminds me about figuring out my mold, too.
Regards, Robert
 
Just to say I went with molding the gun and the end piece separately.

Had some issues with air bubbles but getting there
 
Last edited:
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