xl97's Iron Man motorized face plate tutorial

You tell me... did you buy a/the battery pack?

it will depend on the size of the battery you get.. (18650 are usually rated at around 2500mA or so.. if I recall, been a while) haha


Also.. you may still need to add a GROUND wire from an Arduino GND pin to the GROUND wire of the +5v module OUT LINE
 
You tell me... did you buy a/the battery pack?

it will depend on the size of the battery you get.. (18650 are usually rated at around 2500mA or so.. if I recall, been a while) haha


Also.. you may still need to add a GROUND wire from an Arduino GND pin to the GROUND wire of the +5v module OUT LINE

I will make sure the GND is connected. I'm going to buy the battery tomorrow. They have the following options:

1) Battery - Onyx NiMH 6C 7.2V 3000mAh Stick Standard Plug
2) Traxxas 6-Cell 7.2V 3000mAh Power Cell NiMH Stick Pack with iD Connector
3) 7-C 8.4V 3000mAh NiMH Hump Pack Battery
4) 25C 7.4V 2S 2-Cell 2200mah Lipo Batt:TRA 1/16 Model

Is 4) the best option?
 
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The lipo tend to catch fire they are the type I need to use on my rc thing and two of them caught fire while charging and they also overheat a kot so I wouldnt use that in a closed space like a helmet if you dont want to transform in ghostrider ahah

Envoyé de mon SM-G530W en utilisant Tapatalk
 
The lipo tend to catch fire they are the type I need to use on my rc thing and two of them caught fire while charging and they also overheat a kot so I wouldnt use that in a closed space like a helmet if you dont want to transform in ghostrider ahah

Envoyé de mon SM-G530W en utilisant Tapatalk

Hi tijojo98,

Thanks for the advise, then I will need to find one from other three, hehe. (For sure I don't want to be this kind of ghost rider:))

Dio
 
you should have over charging protection circuits.. so that doesnt happen.

(but still li-po, I probably wouldnt place it by my head.......I have had one on my wrist though [for at least an hour or two at a time] without issue, but it was not is use much)

you want something along the lines of:

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/T...400mAh-18650-Lithium-Battery-2-pack-P517.aspx

but you want a 'pack'... (so its +7.4v)

like this:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/74v-Li-ion-2600mAh-18650-Battery-Pack-P699.aspx


it would be better if they were side by side..(but that place doesnt sell them in that configuration)..

you could make your own (I do)...but not sure how comfortable you are with soldering...etc)

watch some videos on youtube and DIY a pack if you want.

myself... I make 'several' packs... and use connectors just like the link(s)... so I can easily swap things out when they die.. (and I have a charger, so I can re-charge them when depleted).
 
Hi xl97,

Thanks for the info and tips. I never done any soldering before but will start learning and practice once the circuit has been tested and running well.

The shop I will visit tomorrow is call "hobby works". Hopefully they will have something like this.

Will keep you posted.

Dio
 
Here is a thread over at the Arduino forums, that seems to pertain to your same issue:

http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=392323.0


read it...

read the comments too.. they all re-state the same things.. correct power regulation for the servos..

Got it, will read it tonight. I went to the store today and they don't have something like 18650. however, they refer me to another store and I will go there tomorrow to take look.

Dio
 
you can make your own pack..(if desired)

I'm sure they sell holders for this size (somewhere)..lol

they have smaller size ones that 'do' fit in AA holders (but just barely)

I cant recall the size off hand.. 14550's perhaps?
 
you can make your own pack..(if desired)

I'm sure they sell holders for this size (somewhere)..lol

they have smaller size ones that 'do' fit in AA holders (but just barely)

I cant recall the size off hand.. 14550's perhaps?

i see thanks for the info. but the 14550 only has 1500 mah. will this be enough for myservo? the 18650 has 2200-2400mah.

thanks

dio
 
if you have the room/space for the batteries.. then yeah, the 18650s will provide more current.

it seems your servos might be the problem..

if you run across any surplus stores there.. see if they have any cheapie servos.. or try ebay.. see if other servos work better.
 
if you have the room/space for the batteries.. then yeah, the 18650s will provide more current.

Given that 14550 and 18650 are based on the same battery technology, I would expect the maximum current output to be similar (and quite sufficient for a helmet servo). The mAh capacity would then only affect your battery life long term - in other words, how many times you can open & close the visor and low long the LEDs will run on a single charge.

Back in the early days of consumer digital cameras, I was using alkaline AAs in an Olympus. The CCD was using so much power that you could only get about 100 photos on a single set of batteries. After that though, the batteries were still fine for any low power use (remotes etc). I quickly switched to NiCd rechargeables, which had a much lower internal resistance. The rated capacity (amp hours) and voltage were much lower, but in practice you could get a lot more shots before you even needed to recharge. With modern Lithium Ion batteries, you can pull a lot of current from a battery without the voltage dropping significantly. AAs are still the same they were back in 1997...not good for high current applications.
 
xl97

Thanks for the suggestion. I did try something different last night. You know that sg90 micro servo come with the arduino start kids? I did hook up that servo and it works fine. So this is a servo/power problem just like what you said. Too bad I could don't use that micro servo since it's Torgue power is so low. And a lot people only suggest 1501mg since it is metal geared and torgue power can be up to 17kg/cm. Any suggestion about servo type? like what torque power range should be ok for my project? my helmet was made from paper + resin + fiberglass + bando body filter (multiple layers). So I'm assume the faceplate weighted around 2-4 lbs? (sorry I never weight it, just pure guess)
tiga

Thanks for the clarification and knowledgeable info.

I do have a quick question for both of you. I searched online about AA battery, and on wiki it says the Alkaline AA battery's current can be between 1800-2600mah. Is that true? Is this type of AA battery the comment one in the market? I'm assume this is a one I bought from bestbuy.

Thanks for both of you.

Dio
 
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I do have a quick question for both of you. I searched online about AA battery, and on wiki it says the Alkaline AA battery's current can be between 1800-2600mah. Is that true? Is this type of AA battery the comment one in the market? I'm assume this is a one I bought from bestbuy.

mAh is not a measure of current. It's a measure of the full charge capacity of the battery.

Current is measured in amperes (A). The energy content (charge) of a battery is the voltage x current x time. So Ah = amperes x hours, which is a good way to compare the full charge of batteries with the same voltage. Lithium ion batteries have a voltage of 3.7V and alkaline has 1.5V. An alkaline battery with 2.2Ah capacity has a 3.3Wh capacity. A lithium battery with a 2.2Ah capacity has a 8.14Wh capacity thanks to the higher voltage.

One way to model the behavior of a battery is to figure out an internal resistance of the battery and the resistance of the circuit you are trying to power up. Let's say you want 1A current at 3V. R = U/I -> R = 3V / 1A = 3Ω. 1A is actually a relatively high current, but this will illustrate my point better. The power is U*I, so that's 3Vx1A = 3W.

A fresh alkaline battery has a room temperature internal resistance of 0.15Ω. You'll typically measure maybe 1.6V when there's no load on it, but if we load it with our 3Ω device above, the combined resistance is 3.15Ω. We'll use two in series to get to 3.2V. From this, we calculate that the current is 3.2V / 3Ω = 1.07A. A 1.07A current going through the 0.3Ω (for two batteries) internal resistance will cause a voltage drop of R*I = 0.15Ω * 1.07A = 0.32V. The circuit potentially works when the battery is fresh (your device is seeing 2.88V), but when the battery is no longer fresh and the voltage drops (and in face the internal resistance of alkalines go up as they become depleted), your circuit may stop working because you aren't getting a high enough voltage under load.

Here are some articles on batteries and internal resistances:

http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/rising_internal_resistance
http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/Battery-internal-resistance

The second article has a table showing that a AA alkaline has an internal resistance of 0.15Ω and a AA NiMH has an internal resistance of 0.02Ω. Bottom line is that you should care more about the internal resistance of a battery than the capacity
 
I guess I dont fully agree..

I have never seen a +3.7v 14500 cell li-ion battery have the same current rating mAh rating as say a +3.7v i-ion 18650 cell.

@Dio-

for myself..

I usually take the mAh rating like so..

if my battery is rated at say 2500mAh..

that means I can run a project (components) that take 1amps in total.. and run that for roughly 2.5 hours long before being depleted.

if you trying to so the same with a 14500 battery rated @ 600mAh... not going to out to well for you.


edited: from 2.5 > 1 amp typo/error (tiga pointed that out)
 
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It's a bit of an apples and oranges thing... First the lithium ion batteries: If you have 2500 mAh and you pull 2.5A, you are going to run dry in one hour. And if you do the same with a 600mAh battery (14500), you'll be lucky to get 15 minutes. Then the alkalines: first of all, you might need 3 of them depending on what kind of voltage you need. Second, a heavy duty AA alkaline will give you about 1500mAh. However, if you run three in series to power up something like an Arduino, you get triple the internal resistance and you still get 1500mAh (albeit at 4.5V). I don't know how long the AA alkalines would last though, but it will be far less than 1500Ah/2.5A (36 minutes), because the battery rating is based on a constant 50mA current draw and 2.5A is 50 times that much.

It's quite possible that you can get a higher max current from a larger cell...likely even. In fact the second link that I posted says that a D size alkaline has a 0.1Ω internal resistance and an AA size is 0.15Ω, so that means the larger alkaline will have a lower voltage drop than the smaller one when you use it in a high current application.

It's not 100% clear to me if Dio is having a problem because of maximum current draw when the servo is being used or because the battery goes flat too quickly. These are two different things. Cars (the gas-guzzling type) still use lead acid batteries because they are excellent for short term burst power (starting an engine). Apple's first Mac Portable had a lead acid battery, but laptops have moved on because they generally need a relatively flat amount of power for as long as possible.
 
xl97 & tiga

Thanks for these detailed help. I'm playing around with the servo and battery see if there is any way can solve my issue.
tiga

My issue is when I follow xl97's diagram to set up the circuit, my servos movement is not following what the code was telling them to. For example, when the code tell them move from 0 degree to 180 degree when I push the button and then move back when I push the button again.

Now, the situation is when I push the button, the servo arm move a bit then come back automatically. My power source is 8xAA batteries. So total is 12 V and I have a 5V regulator module. Originally my power source is 4xAA batteries, then the servo just keep jitter.

The servo I'm using is called Power HD HD-1501MG, when unload it use about 400-500mah and when it is loaded, it can draw up to over 2000 mah.

However, when I use the micro servo which come with the arduino start kit. It works fine. The micro servo is Sg90.
 
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xl97

I have a problem here. I was trying to do as exact as what you did on your diagram. However, here is what I get for the caps:

IMG_5740.JPG

as you can see there is 0.1uf but no 0.33uf. Is there an alternative way of doing it with what I have?
xl97 & tiga,

I did some measurement for the battery here is what I got:

AA battery, voltage is 1.5v. However, when I change to DC(A - with ... under the dash) section at 20. it shows the following:
 

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as you can see it showing 5.36 A. Is that means this AA battery contain 5,360 mah?

I also did a test on the 14500

It shows only 1.67 A

My original goal is to test what's their mah looks like. Is there anything wrong with my setting when I measure the battery? Or this is the correct number?

Thanks

Dio
 

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