Cheap PKD (Water Gun)

'Takagi Type M2019 WaterBlaster Muzzle (modification)' now available for those modding their squirter. Share and enjoy. :cool

https://www.shapeways.com/product/J7D9EH96T/takagi-type-m2019-muzzle-modification

View attachment 787680
I got mine today. I like it a lot. First, that the barrel tip is integrated with a step at the back, which would make fitting and filling gaps much easier.
Second that it has sharp details, which the orange tip doesn't.
I'm glad I waited to convert mine before this became available.
 
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I got mine today. I like it a lot. First, that the barrel tip is integrated with a step at the back, which would make fitting and filling gaps much easier.
Second that it has sharp details, which the orange tip doesn't.
I'm glad I waited to convert mine before this became available.

Thanks for the feedback Darth Lars. Glad you're happy with the product. Look forward to seeing your completed mod.
 
Today's update:

Continued cleaning up where I removed the crappy molded knob so I can replace it with a real metal one. It's really hard to sand in this area because it's just so small and awkward. It's also impossible to see how well I'm doing without some primer haha.
IMG_7484.jpg

I spent what felt like forever cutting off/hollowing the main barrel and hollowing out the upper barrel section for the more accurate parts.
IMG_7487.jpg

Some time and a whole lot of cocai-ahem, sanding dust, and the parts finally fit:
IMG_7488.jpg

I also cut one half of the grip open for a test fit of the inner grip piece. Huge thanks to Soulinertia for supplying the deluxe upgrade kit I'm using for this build!
IMG_7491.jpgIMG_7493.jpg
 
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The front end piece looks like it fits on/in perfect! :thumbsup

Nice work

It does from this angle. I tried my hardest to get them to align perfectly without having to do much work after, but alas there's a slight gap between the barrel extension and the upper barrel greebie that needs to be fixed.
 
Today's update:

Continued cleaning up where I removed the crappy molded knob so I can replace it with a real metal one. It's really hard to sand in this area because it's just so small and awkward. It's also impossible to see how well I'm doing without some primer haha.
View attachment 790218

I spent what felt like forever cutting off/hollowing the main barrel and hollowing out the upper barrel section for the more accurate parts.
View attachment 790219

Some time and a whole lot of cocai-ahem, sanding dust, and the parts finally fit:
View attachment 790220

I also cut one half of the grip open for a test fit of the inner grip piece. Huge thanks to @Soulinertia for supplying the deluxe upgrade kit I'm using for this build!
View attachment 790222View attachment 790221

So, is the inside of your barrel just coated with resin? I thought it would be solid in there. If it's just coated inside, that's what I would like to do. I'm thinking of adding some sound and light inside there.
 
So, is the inside of your barrel just coated with resin? I thought it would be solid in there. If it's just coated inside, that's what I would like to do. I'm thinking of adding some sound and light inside there.

No, the whole thing is solid. I just poured it down the barrel and made sure not to fill it all the way up to the opening, so at the opening it appears hollow. That's probably what confused you.
 
More progress:

The inner grip was thicker on one end than it was on the other, so I sanded it all down until it was all even. It's still too thin, so I'll need to build up the thickness with styrene, eventually adding the recessed detail that the other side has.
IMG_7498.jpgIMG_7497.jpg

I've also filled the butt and upper grip area and lined the interior of the grip frame with Apoxie Sculpt.
IMG_7500.jpg

Finally, I filled in the barrel area that I'd hollowed out a bit to create a flat surface for gluing the pieces onto. The empty space in the barrel piece was filled in as well.
IMG_7501.jpgIMG_7502.jpg

Test fit of everything assembled:
IMG_7506.jpg

I tried to put as much work into this project as I could over the past few weeks while I was still on winter break. Unfortunately, that break has ended and I'm back at school, meaning progress on this project will be very slow going forward. I am having an absolutely blast with this build though! I usually work on helmets, so working on a hand prop this small and manageable is a real treat!
 
More progress:

The inner grip was thicker on one end than it was on the other, so I sanded it all down until it was all even. It's still too thin, so I'll need to build up the thickness with styrene, eventually adding the recessed detail that the other side has.
View attachment 791740View attachment 791741

I've also filled the butt and upper grip area and lined the interior of the grip frame with Apoxie Sculpt.
View attachment 791743

Finally, I filled in the barrel area that I'd hollowed out a bit to create a flat surface for gluing the pieces onto. The empty space in the barrel piece was filled in as well.
View attachment 791744View attachment 791745

Test fit of everything assembled:
View attachment 791746

I tried to put as much work into this project as I could over the past few weeks while I was still on winter break. Unfortunately, that break has ended and I'm back at school, meaning progress on this project will be very slow going forward. I am having an absolutely blast with this build though! I usually work on helmets, so working on a hand prop this small and manageable is a real treat!

That looks really good. Where did you get the innergrib? Is there a file for 3d printing it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Is the butt (end of grip section) too thin or does it just have too soft edges? I'm leaning towards the latter but I'm not sure.
On my water-gun it is 11.1 - 11.5 mm.
Edit: I think the Tomenosuke 2049 has a thicker butt plate than the original gun BTW.

... and has anybody modified one or two of the triggers to a rotational motion? I think that would be very difficult without splitting it though.
 
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What does this mean ?
I'm sorry if I was unclear. The water gun's triggers are one piece which slides backwards if you pull any or both of the triggers.
On the real gun, the rear trigger is attached with a pin and the trigger rotates when pulled. I wonder if someone here has modified the rear trigger to rotate when pulled.

I believe that would be a difficult mod, one that would practically require splitting the entire gun into left and right halves so as to get access to where the trigger piece is attached.
 
I'm sorry if I was unclear. The water gun's triggers are one piece which slides backwards if you pull any or both of the triggers.
On the real gun, the rear trigger is attached with a pin and the trigger rotates when pulled. I wonder if someone here has modified the rear trigger to rotate when pulled.

I believe that would be a difficult mod, one that would practically require splitting the entire gun into left and right halves so as to get access to where the trigger piece is attached.

the mod can be done, especially since there is the two small peg points molded above the triggers. Those pegs hold each trigger in place in the Tome. So, all you need to do is drill into the peg holes while the triggers are in place, then cut the triggers in half. Then mod them to keep them in place.

but the major, major problem is separating the gun in half without doing some damage to the plastic.
I was able to separate one of my water guns but the handle grip area got damaged cause of the water gun hardware.

But I wish these water guns were also sold as unbuilt kits.
 
but the major, major problem is separating the gun in half without doing some damage to the plastic.
I was able to separate one of my water guns but the handle grip area got damaged cause of the water gun hardware.
I found another way in: I cut off the right cylinder cover!

I think this mod has some upsides to a full split:
- I can rebuild the right side of the revolver frame as one whole piece of sheet styrene.
- I can paint the right cylinder cover separately from the steel parts.
- I noticed that the cylinder cover is a bit boxier than the original. It looks OK straight on from the side but it is not rounded enough. I can fill it from the inside and then file it down following the existing lines -- which I would not have room for if it was still attached.

It was a bit tricky to cut the Weaver knob off cleanly and it was also easiest to cut the bolt lever in two.
 
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