The beginning of my A New Hope Graflex build!

I always respect what you have to add to my threads. Some really fantastic insight. Thanks as always. What do you prefer on your flashes?


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Prefer? As many here i would prefer to find some of the original stuff, but i don´t see that happen. :lol

As mentioned before ther are 3 main types available: Todds, Ginos, and Roys. Additional there are 2 others: Saberfreaks old stuff chiming in from time to time, and also Marvs, but i don´t know if he still offers them.


None of them is the real deal, but each of them works, with varying advantages in different directions.

Todds - replica, not bad and a very good price, at least for the US guys.

Ginos - replica, good but way overpriced, esspecially as he can´t proove it´s as accurate as he says. He says he "measured" them, i don´t think that means he was allowed to disassemble the real prop to make a mold for later accurate measurements, some measurements with a caliper is not enough for such a shape with all its anles and rounded corners.

Roys - replica, good (but off course also not the real deal). He´s a graphic artistby trade, and i trust his skills with todays equipment to copy the shape seen on pics of the real more than oldschool measurement within a limited timeframe.

Saberfreaks - old stuff, but prooven to not having the correct bottom (no channel)

Marvs - real t-track, no replica. But not completely correct in shape and dimensions. Still nice to look at, and no replica, sort of grandchild of the real ones. And a good price for Europe, US based shipping gets crazy more and more.


That´s it, more or less - each builder has to pic his own from the given infos.

Under the line: atm. - until some prooven better or real can be found - it´s Roys for me. And sorry for that long writing.
 
Prefer? As many here i would prefer to find some of the original stuff, but i don´t see that happen. :lol

As mentioned before ther are 3 main types available: Todds, Ginos, and Roys. Additional there are 2 others: Saberfreaks old stuff chiming in from time to time, and also Marvs, but i don´t know if he still offers them.


None of them is the real deal, but each of them works, with varying advantages in different directions.

Todds - replica, not bad and a very good price, at least for the US guys.

Ginos - replica, good but way overpriced, esspecially as he can´t proove it´s as accurate as he says. He says he "measured" them, i don´t think that means he was allowed to disassemble the real prop to make a mold for later accurate measurements, some measurements with a caliper is not enough for such a shape with all its anles and rounded corners.

Roys - replica, good (but off course also not the real deal). He´s a graphic artistby trade, and i trust his skills with todays equipment to copy the shape seen on pics of the real more than oldschool measurement within a limited timeframe.

Saberfreaks - old stuff, but prooven to not having the correct bottom (no channel)

Marvs - real t-track, no replica. But not completely correct in shape and dimensions. Still nice to look at, and no replica, sort of grandchild of the real ones. And a good price for Europe, US based shipping gets crazy more and more.


That´s it, more or less - each builder has to pic his own from the given infos.

Under the line: atm. - until some prooven better or real can be found - it´s Roys for me. And sorry for that long writing.

It's fine you wrote a lot! How else am I supposed to learn this stuff?! Great read man! I wonder how long we will have to wait or if the real deal will ever be discovered?... I had never even heard about Marvs track before. Is that another source that has dried up like saberfreaks?


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Yea they may not be the exact ones used in the movies, but they are old/vintage. I'm trying to go as much vintage as possible. I have roys grips on order also so I'll have to compare the two and make my choice. This post have been supper helpful!
 
Yea they may not be the exact ones used in the movies, but they are old/vintage. I'm trying to go as much vintage as possible. I have roys grips on order also so I'll have to compare the two and make my choice. This post have been supper helpful!

I'm glad you're learning things here! So am I! Did you get the messages I sent you?


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Question for those of you who have used the "saberfreak" vintage grips that are brown. What shade of black did you use to paint them? Was it a specific brand of spray paint? Was an airbrush used? Were the grips on the screen used prop flat or shiny? Also, how did you go about making the "glue channel"? Routed out or sanded? Thanks in advance for any knowledge or reply!!!!


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I bought some vintage graflex D-rings and parts off of eBay. The D-ring I'm looking at in particular is off of the bag of a graflex graphic 35 camera case.

Unfortunately, it was comedically undersized!!!

I tried that bag myself back in May 2017, too bad you missed my post about it not working. I think the one Sym-Cha found was off of a GRAFLEX hard case.
 
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I tried that bag myself back in May 2017, too bad you missed my post about it not working. I think the one @Sym-Cha found was off of a GRAFLEX hard case.

My friend Troy from the graflex support group on facebook dug up an old case. Might be a camera case I'd have to ask. The clip and d ring are amazingly sized. He was nice enough to part with one of them for my build. Here's some pics. Wannawanga for reference....
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I tried that bag myself back in May 2017, too bad you missed my post about it not working. I think the one @Sym-Cha found was off of a GRAFLEX hard case.

He also found some other clips that came off of a WWII helmet. They are other good options to pair with the d-ring
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Hey JRHunter13 ! Even if those don't turn out to be 100% accurate, it's still nice to have a vintage GRAFLEX part on your replica! You could always remove it if you find a better vintage piece and attach that new one down the road.
 
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Hey @JRHunter13 ! Even if those don't turn out to be 100% accurate, it's still nice to have a vintage GRAFLEX part on your replica! You could always remove it if you find a better vintage piece and attach that new one down the road.

Yeah! I thought about that. Until a photo surfaces of the actual clip we can only guess, but I'm trying to go all vintage on this build if possible.


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Hey @JRHunter13 ! I'm confused. Which D-ring came off of the helmet?

The d ring in all pictures came off of the case. The clip parts are different. One came off of the case with the d ring and the one shaped more like the wannawanga one came off of the helmet.


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Hey @JRHunter13 ! Even if those don't turn out to be 100% accurate, it's still nice to have a vintage GRAFLEX part on your replica! You could always remove it if you find a better vintage piece and attach that new one down the road.

No one knows what a 100% accurate D-ring/strap would look like for an ANH Luke saber. We have no images of the bottom of the saber to see how the D-ring is attached. We only know the shape and size of the D-ring.

Yeah! I think it's pretty great! It's thicker than the wannawanga clip but not by a ton and needs to be reprofiled to match the curvature of the bottom of the graflex.

Those vintage D-ring and straps you found look great! There's no need to "reprofile" the strap! Again, what the strap looks like is totally unknown. The idea of shaping the strap to match the curved edge of the Graflex tube originates not that long ago here on this forum when @Sym-Cha made his tutorial on how to make your own ANH D-ring and strap. Since the look of the strap is unknown, he idealized it by making it match up with the curve of the Graflex edge. So now that's what WannaWanga offers, and what most people's replicas look like. But it's really just an idealized guess. My guess is odds are it looked more like your found vintage straps. I actually reshaped my WannaWanga strap with a dremel to make it look like the ones you've found.
 
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