The Iron Girl Project - Computerized Exoskeleton System

Fantastic post, darkhawk ! Thanks for all the great input! Would you mind sharing your google+ page? It seems like you've run in to many of the same issues that lots of folks have encountered when trying to build this kind of functionality in their suits. Me included, especially regarding power draw and distribution. My "suit" exists mostly on breadboards, as I'm still pepping and building out the armor itself, but I want to have all the electronics at least bench tested and running. I'm also working on incorporating the RasPi in the helmet, but as you mentioned, it's a bit underpowered. Have you looked at any of the other options out there? There are some more powerful linux-based boards coming out of China that some folks in my makerspace swear by.
Mclabop, James Bruton at xRobots uses radio to communicate between his armor and the helmet. He has a switch in each hip pod that he presses to (1) scroll through a menu and (2) activate. The functions he has are to open and close his face plate and power his unibeam. I think there may be a couple other there as well. The menu and other output show up on a simple LCD display that is mounted in his faceplate. He gets a little cross-eyed when looking up at it when his face plate is open. :)

He also uses a different microcontroller set, as you've mentioned. If I recall correctly, he's using pickaxe gear (microcontrollers, radios, LCD).
 
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https://plus.google.com/u/0/+AaronLunger/posts

That would be my G+ page. Unfortunately, you'll have to sort through the non-cosplay stuff as well as the cosplay because I didn't sort anything.

I thought about radio communication, and I even have a complete Zigbee based development kit (I'm an electrical design engineer, so distributors tend to give away free stuff now and then.... ;) ) but I just didn't like it On top of that, it just wasn't as practical in my opinion. My wireless experience has been wrought with some of the huge drawbacks of wireless communications, namely missed communications. And I hate that, I can't stand it anymore. So that's why I'd much rather have a wired experience.

As far as the flares and such, it's a neat effect. But very complex and I personally couldn't see the time being spent doing it as worthwhile as spending the time on completing the rest of the suit.

Another thing I might point out, is carrying water/drinks if you're going to a con, as well as perhaps your wallet/license and some cash. I had no pockets whatsoever on my suit, much less a place for water/drinks. I plan on redoing the cod and making it have a hip pack with a couple of 'armor pockets' batman style so I can actually carry some things, as well as a drink holding pouch.

Anyway, I've seen tons of videos of people who have done Iron Man, and each is intriguing in their own ways. But in the end, it comes down to personal preference. I'm now to the point that I still want a wired suit, but I want to minimize the wires. With my new approach, it will be 3 wires from any piece of armor to another, which is much better than previously (12 wires from hands to chest, 18 wires from chest to helmet). I do plan on having a logitech wireless keyboard+touchpad along with the suit as well, probably hidden inside the chest/back. I'm also going to be putting a wireless mouse into one of my hands so I can control the Raspberry Pi mouse by moving my hand against a surface (like my leg).

All being said, I haven't looked into Chinese based linux SBC's yet, I've been happy enough with the Raspberry Pi for now. I considered something like a Samsung Exynos based SBC, but sourcing the other components (such as a camera) proved to be a bit of a pain.

Also, one thing I will mention, if you haven't noticed, the Raspberry Pi camera gets QUITE HOT when you run it full time. If you lift the camera module up from the board it's mounted on (I angled mine perpendicular to the board it's connected to) it will overheat and actually shut off on it's own. I actually mounted a heatsink that I made directly behind the camera to help keep it cool. It worked remarkably well and fixed the issue and I was able to use it for about 2 hours before my batteries died.

Honestly, if anyone has questions...feel free to ask me. I don't want to detract from Lexie's project, so probably sending me a PM would be best.

I'm still quite interested in her project though. If I decide to get a SBC that has a bit more power, I might actually grab the code to use for myself. I do like the interface, and many of the ideas. But as everyone knows, horsepower is the biggest issue with all of this.

Another problem with the Raspberry Pi is that it's COMM's aren't interrupt based like all others. They're all software based, which means that it can (and probably will) miss communications. My arduino boards that interface with the Raspberry Pi all just used digital pins to get the Pi to do things. It was the only way I could reliably get it to talk to the arduino boards.
 
@Ferrous, guess I have a few more videos to watch to catch up. I'm at the part where he is still using IR. I was wondering why he didn't use RF... ;)
 
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Looking awesome! I also love the use of the Field Notes! I use the exact same ones! Never leave home without them.

Thanks! Aren't they great? I'm only on my second book of them, but they've done so well in my workflow that I've stocked up on the Black Edition. I can't get over how much abuse they go through and still look just fine.

Good to see this is still going.....

I went to Otakon wearing my recent MK42 build. Found out quite a bit about it and what needed changes.....

I'm just going to warn you about this....

If you actually plan on going to a convention and wearing the suit for any extended amount of time....(ie 8+ hours)....the Tablet will not last.

Powering everything will be the biggest issue you run into. I had an awful time due to the powering scheme I chose at the time. I won't explain further, but it didn't work out well.

Long story short...if you plan to wear this all day, you're going to need a bunch of batteries, or else you're going to not have many LED's or other light up panels anywhere, as it drains batteries quickly.

There was 1 really good video done of me wearing my suit from Otakon.... http://youtu.be/HwJO03P-EBo fast forward to about 2:18 and that should be close to where I start.

Another point I'm going to caution on....and only because I've worked through this. A buddy of mine (who is working on War Machine to go with my Iron Man) attempted to build the switches into the helmet, similar to the way you are doing it. He actually used 'cheek' switches. He found it doesn't work well, especially if the helmet isn't sized just perfectly, and mounted just perfectly on your head. If he smiled (which happened alot....) the helmet would randomly open/close because of it. Or the eyes would turn off/on or change color. Needless to say, he decided that having switches elsewhere (most likely on his waist/belt or chest) would be much more reliable.

Personally, all my switches are in my finger tips. It worked VERY well, aside from all the wiring needed. In my suit I had a single Arduino Mega in my chest that controlled everything LED and servo-wise, with all the battery packs located in the chest. It didn't work out well battery wise, so I've moved to having about 3 or 4 Arduino Micro's throughout the body (1 in each hand, a chest, and a head, so 4 total) and will probably be using I2C to talk between them all. This is still a bit of a work in progress in that sense (initial programming done, but a bunch of cleanup and testing is needed yet).

The Raspberry Pi in the helmet worked out surprisingly well. I was able to easily and clearly view the video feed just fine actually. I was also able to slightly see out of the helmet via the eyes. All in all, that aspect worked well until the power situation got bad.

I would honestly recommend distributing the power throughout the suit. But keep in mind how much everything will draw. If you want to go 8 hours, you're going to need a lot of power. A Raspberry Pi with the camera is going to draw about 1amp@5V alone.....I can only imagine how much a Windows 8 Tablet will draw (even if it has a built in battery, it won't last 8 hours doing what you're looking at doing).

Overall, there is a lot of learning to do. If you plan on going to any conventions, I highly suggest wearing the entire suit 4 or 5 times before going. You're going to want to make changes to make it easier to get on/off, or to move around in, or other various aspects.

As far as the UI, it's awesome. I do like it. I'm still looking into the Raspberry Pi side and hoping to eventually do something similar. I'm going to move away from doing both eyes, to a more google-glass like single eye for the video viewing. That way I can more easily see both out of the helmet, as well as see the video (other issues came up with one of the eyes and viewing).

Lastly, keep in mind what you want to do. If you want the helmet to go up and down, you need to allow room for the entire video-glasses to fit between the face mask and the top of your helmet. This is a difficult aspect to grasp, and I ran into some issues there as well, and would have done it differently if I recognized the problem sooner.

I haven't made any formal posts here about my suit. I've been documenting it mostly via my own Google+ page. I'll have to make a post here soon enough.

Again, I don't recommend the chin switches. It will be difficult and cumbersome in the long run. Another reason I wouldn't recommend it, is because the chin is a terrific spot to add a small fan to incorporate air flow into the helmet, something you're gong to want if you wear it for more than 30 minutes at a time. BUT, if that's what you have your heart set on, go for it! I'd love to see someone make it work. I always had aspirations to make everything voice activated....but the Raspberry Pi just doesn't have the CPU power to do it.

EDIT:One last word of caution....watch how much wiring you plan on doing between different pieces of armor.....the more wires, the more of a pain in the butt it is. I regretted having as much wiring as I did originally. It took about 1 hour to get the suit on just because of all the wiring and such that went on.

Wow! Nice to see the new pics on your G+ page. I'm glad to hear some real-life experience from the field. As far as the points you've mentioned:

1. Power: Definitely a concern. I've been stockpiling Eneloop batteries every time they're on sale - the servo controllers, Ards, and Trinkets will run on switched AA battery boxes, and I'll be bringing along a 15-minute speed charger for those. As far as the Windows tablet goes, the battery might not be too terrible. The Dell Venue 8 Pro and the Toshiba Encore 2 both advertise 10 hours, and we'll go ahead and cut that down to seven for the Processing sketch. However, the screen won't be on, I won't need any of the radios, and I can definitely strip out a few MS services to keep the system running light. Heck, as long as I can find a good video driver, I could get a really skinny Debian install on there and a copy of Java, and I'd be mostly set. The Processing sketch, even on smaller computers, never tops 20% CPU - I've tried to optimize it best I can, so no actual 3D work is done in real-time. Regardless, not sure if it'll be in the Mk 1, but an external battery will probably be built or scavenged for an extra charge bump. I should have enough spare cells from all of my IT scavenging, hopefully. Interestingly enough, I ran the Raspberry Pi with a CPU load test off of a 10,000mA USB battery pack for 19 hours straight, and when I do video overlays on the RPi the CPU tops at 10%. Not that I've run the camera for 19 hours on battery, but hypothetically that'd be more than optimal. Either way, another switched AA battery pack w/regulator would work just fine. Face-tracking, on the other hand...

2. Switches. I'd love to use those muscle switches mentioned way up above, but they're a bit out of my price range. I tested the jaw switches in very silly ways by strapping the jaw around my head, and they seem to work okay. My plan is to make the inside of the helmet roomier in the front (by overscaling slightly) so you'd have to reach forward with your jaw to poke at the switches. I'm working on some 3D printed "paddles" so they just need a slight bump, not a direct push. I was still able to talk just fine without activating them.

3. The room to lift the visor and HMD is kind of why I picked the Rescue mask, at the very least. The forehead is a bit wider and larger, and wouldn't look quite as awkward when sitting higher up on the forehead, since you'll basically have an HMD and a faceplate nailed to your forehead whenever the helmet's open. Definitely going to be a bit of mechanical fanangling there though. I like how the inside of your faceplate came out, though. Gives me hope.

Sadly, the RPi doth not have the power for voice activation. SparkFun does have a VR shield for Arduino (on sale right now, ), that offloads the processing to a standalone board, and lets you program 28 or so commands. Still toying back and forth with it though - my funds are really limited, so every purchase I make for this project has to pretty much be essential and work perfectly, or I'm running on empty for another month.

Oh, and for wiring, I've come upon two separate solutions. One - picking up some microUSB breakout boards and some female USB jackets. You can use those four wires for a decent amount of power quite safely, and one or two microUSB cables are easier to run than 4-8 individual wires. Also, you can find RJ-45 breakout boards (or just punch-down the jacks yourself to save money) to run 8 data lines. Not something I'd put more than a few milliamps through, but again - 8 wires in one nice, clean, insulated line. And you can get 1-foot cables from Monoprice pretty cheap, and make it all nice and unobtrusive. Theoretically. I'm not a huge fan of wireless communication for something like this - more power draw, more points of failure, etc.

Oh - and wireless keyboards/mice - I got one of these recently on sale for about 14 bucks. Works really well, quite small, and can run off the included battery pack or regular old AAA batteries. Very thin, too.

Anyway, back to pepping a prototype gauntlet. I finally got a new laser printer, since my blarghsauce inkjet would only print about 2/3 of the cut lines, and almost none of the fold lines....

~Lexikitty
 
I was the Tony Stark who found you guys in line on Thursday and then was at the Marvel Shoot on Saturday morning.

EDIT: I'm working on my Mark VII for NYCC.

Ah, that's right now. That makes more sense. Yeah, it was good talking to you. I haven't posted anything about my build here really....so many things learned....I'd have to spend a day actually organizing photos and going through everything.

Either way, it was good talking. If you need tips or anything just send me a PM.....

In the mean time, back to Lexi's build....Hopefully there's an update at some point soon!
 
And I'm back! Sorry, my IT job's been crazy since term started (I work at a college), and a few projects at home needed taking care of (FTP server migration, home security network upgrades, etc), so I've been swamped and/or too tired to do anything but crash and play Space Engineers. But things seem to be calming down again, and it gave me a chance to zoom out a bit and decide where this project is actually going. And as a result, I'm splitting up the project into three distinct categories. This'll be a boring "roadmap" post (sorry), but if I write it down and share it with other people, the chances are much higher that I'll get that extra rush of motivation to push on through.

LX1_Industries IGP Directive 1 - Modular Exoskeleton Platform:

  • This is just a fancy way of saying I'll be continuing the work on this thread. I will still be working on an interior skeleton compatible with as many types of foam and pep armor as I can, allowing for extensible I/O, HUD integration, and eventually power-assisted limbs. I'm rather fond of the idea that anybody will be able to 3D print/CNC/mill/cut out an interlocking skeleton, and with a bit of foam or risers, put it on under their armor and bring an extra level of realism to it. .STL and source files will be free, of course, and I'll probably put them up on my website.
  • ETA: It'll be a continually evolving project, but I'd like to get an upper-body prototype together by December, adding power assistance as funds permit.

LX1_Industries IGP Directive 2 - War Girl Mk 1:
  • This is something I've been gnawing on for a while - an Iron Girl suit with weapons all over it, what's not to love? I've been making some Pep files of the War Machine Mk 1, just to get my eye in on pepping and also to have a model to draw on and sketch all over. I'll be using a tweaked Mk VII suit as a base, and the wonderful Darkside501st has been super awesome in letting me use his 3D files for his Mk VII. I'm making this strictly as costume armor, mostly as an excuse to make an exo with a bunch of weapons stuck on it. WG Mk 1 will probably get her own thread when I finish the 3D models, but here's a few shots of the work I've done this weekend on the RH gauntlet, at least.

    IMGP0296.JPGWG_1.png
  • ETA: Hopefully by NYCC '15, so October of next year.
LX1_Industries IGP Directive 3 - Iron Girl Mk 1:

  • This is probably the most exciting of all (at least, to me). This is the long-term, "real steel" exoskeleton - I'll be doing what stress testing I can against blunt and sharp weapons, small-caliber firearms, heat, and extreme weather. Will it rival DARPA's XOS or TALOS suits? Probably not. But will it be built by one girl out of her garage? Yes, and that's kind of the point. Currently, it's strictly in the design phase - I'm collaborating with the lovely Zephyranthes on this, and I might throw up a thread about it on the RPF, if people are curious enough. Fabrication will involve some heavier-duty equipment, and I should be moving into an actual house in the next year or two to facilitate that, so an ETA is....well, soonish, but uncertain.

I also have two other non-exo projects I want to finish too, so I'll be jumping around a bit. Sorry for the text-heavy post (and the 2-week silence), and thanks again for all the likes/comments!

Cheers,
~Lexikitty
 
Its looking well so far! Was telling my Lecturer about this in college earlier this week he was super excited! think he may be expecting me to try do one =P I'm game to start now that I'm doing some processing! just need to get a camera for testing!
 
Weekly(ish) update!

Worked primarily on War Girl this weekend, building up some concept sketches of her and starting with the gauntlet model. I settled on an energy weapon as opposed to the F2000's mounted on War Machine's arms, for purely superficial reasons. I also added the missile launcher pod from the Mk III/VII up top, though I don't think I'll have two missile launchers. Maybe a small SMG, unsure yet. Suggestions?

The top pod opens and closes like normal, but the back half of the arm gun only slides back when the weapon needs to cool. I kind of want there to be an "overheat" function - Mass Effect-style - where I can fire it for ~15 shots (heavy, shotgun-ish blasts), the inside of the arm starts to glow red/orange, and the weapon temperature on the HUD goes into alert mode. Then the back half slides open, internal lights fade from red/orange back to blue (add "hissssss" sound effect), weapon closes, resume firing. Haven't got all the details worked out, but it's definitely doable, and right now that kind of gratuitously unrealistic fun stuff is a breath of fresh air from the exoskeleton mechanical design (slogging along). And it makes me all happy and excited, so there. *squee*

Here's a few renders, hot off the Blender:
ShotgunArm_V1_closed.png ShotgunArm_V1.png

I've done a few quick peps of the front barrel cover (smallest part), and this is probably the scale I'm going to use, maybe a tad bigger if I get around to getting legal-sized cardstock:
20140928_221657.jpg

I also just got some bike wire and housing for animating this, so that should be exciting! :)

Cheers!
~LK
 
That's really cool. If you want to make it slide back you could also use a servo drive gear and a gear rack. The drive gear has a servo spline so it mounts right onto a mini servo in place of a traditional servo arm so it's a very clean setup. It might be easier than running a bicycle cable down the length of your arm as they aren't very flexible.

You can get the gears and gear rack here- http://www.servocity.com/html/gears.html
 
That's really cool. If you want to make it slide back you could also use a servo drive gear and a gear rack. The drive gear has a servo spline so it mounts right onto a mini servo in place of a traditional servo arm so it's a very clean setup. It might be easier than running a bicycle cable down the length of your arm as they aren't very flexible.

You can get the gears and gear rack here- http://www.servocity.com/html/gears.html

Shiny! Might be able to hide that in the phase-rifle-ey thing (I should name that at some point) on the arm. Ill pick a few up, or try to 3D print one. I was going to run bike wire just inside the gauntlet, but that might be a better solution, at least for this case. Thanks!

what programs do you use

Mmm, loaded question. You can skim through the thread to find posts where I've mentioned the application I use, but generally, the applications I use the most are:
- Blender for 3D modeling (Cinema 4D for really fancy stuff)
- Sketchup for parametric modeling (Need to get the hang of FreeCAD yet)
- Pepakura Designer 3
- 123D Make for skeletal components, and Netfab Basic for simple .stl cuts
- Processing 2.2.1 for the HUD and data visualization
- Arduino IDE, because, well, Arduino
- And Python and Bash scripts to tie up any loose ends. I also find Frizing to be useful, just to visualize wiring. :)

~LK
 
Just a nibble of a post here. I've been spending the last month switching my 3D models from direct modeling/sculpting over to CAD. Not only does this allow me to print/fabricate parts more easily, but I can run stress simulations on the suit. The forearm interior skeleton is just about done - I just need to add cable routing and maybe a hinge to the wrist bracket. I've aimed for chunky since it'll be inside the War Girl suit, and I don't have the magical satellite metals Tony Stark had access to.

The cross-section, if anybody wants to look at how it's laid out:

Wrist_Sketch.png

A render of the forearm module:

Gauntlet_Render_2.png

And a quick stress simulation on the outer edge:

Fullscreen capture 1122014 110530.bmp.jpg


Hopefully I'll have time to work my way up the arm as November gets on. I'm still getting the hang of CAD, so excuse the mess.

Cheers,
~LK
 
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