Going to attempt sculpting

SuperFLY

Well-Known Member
Hi all,

Never sculpted anything before in my life so I was wondering if anyone had any good resources/videos/hints and tips they can share that would help me along? (I will be reading through the threads here and have watched many many videos on the yootoobz)

The sculpt I'm going to be attempting is embo from the clone wars animations and I want to eventually mould it to create a full head latex mask.

embo_psc_by_astrovisionary-d3bahrj.jpg


I have a mannequin head as a base. I actually have a polystyrene and a plastic one to use depending on what I decide.

I have the clay (5lb monster clay) and some tools to get going. I also have a bottle of liquid latex (only 1litre) and some thickener.

I also have some plaster bandages, swimming hat, vaseline and some stone plaster that I was toying with the idea of making a cheap life cast with. I've seen a couple of vids that do that, put the polystyrene head into the mould and filling it with plaster so you end up with your head on a base to work with. I like this idea because my fear with using the mannequin head is that it won't fit my head (I can always build up the clay so it does but I'm sure you appreciate my concerns)

My biggest unknowns are around moulding the sculpt with the latex. I've seen a few ways of doing things and I'm not sure what the best for me would be.

I've done a couple of test strips of latex to see how it dries and it shinks up the moment I take it off the plastic sheet and sticks to itself like anything. I've got a joke horse mask that isn't 'tacky' in the slightest so I'm wondering how people get it to retain shape once moulded?

Secondly on that subject.. after having watched face-off for years I know they do a latex 'beauty coat' in the mould then back it with foam (I *think* they mean polyfoam but they talk about that as a separate thing so not sure). Not a single video I've found shows this way of doing things. How do you fill up the difference between the masks features and your own features?

E.g. if I made a sculpt with horns or something and moulded it, what do they put inside the horns under the latex to maintain its shape?

With the mask I want to make it's not so important it matches me features exactly. He has no visible mouth and the eyes are lenses so the mask can be bigger than my head, I am just curious in general and for future sculpts (I have a couple of things I'd like to do if this goes well)

As you can probably tell I'm a complete noobie when it comes to this but I'm keen to learn. Embo's face is pretty simple designwise so I'm hoping its a good way to introduce me to it..

My biggest fear is taking ages doing a nice sculpt in the clay then ruining it during moulding as I don't know what I'm doing...

Any help/advice will be gratefully received.

Many Thanks
 
I've found the stan winston previews on youtube and have watched a few.. of course they're only previews so not a lot of detail.

will have a look for that particular one thanks.
 
"My biggest unknowns are around moulding the sculpt with the latex."

For casting latex you don´t mold it with latex, the mold should be a porous material. Idealy Hydrocal or similar (better absorption), or UC30, less porous but will work too and might stand more runs.

" sticks to itself like anything. I've got a joke horse mask that isn't 'tacky' in the slightest so I'm wondering how people get it to retain shape once moulded?"

Yes, latex layed that way does this. Powdering it with talc will solve the problem. But when latex is casted in a mold, the surface touching the mold won´t do this, and the interior won´t be an issue. Talc would solve it anyway.

" know they do a latex 'beauty coat' in the mould then back it with foam (I *think* they mean polyfoam but they talk about that as a separate thing so not sure)."

Not sure of what you have seen exactly. But geneally latex masks are plain latex, no polyfoam (in general). The best way to cast them is dweling latex in the mold. Fill it to the top with latex, let it dwell for let´say three hours, then empty it. The absorption draw will do it´s work and create the thickness wanted, more time, more thickness.
For thiis you will need more than the 1l latex you have I´d say.

Another option is slushing or brushing latex layers, can be done but I preffer the dweling method.

"if I made a sculpt with horns or something and moulded it, what do they put inside the horns under the latex to maintain its shape?"

Latex holds it shape depending on tickness and size. If the horns are big then, yes , maybe polyfoam in the hotrns. Latex van laso be made stiffer with latex+latex hardener or using reinforcement materials such as fiberglass (careful with the skin) or cheesecloth.
Some times you may need creating some kind of structure. But sincerely, if it´s the first one, keep it simple.

"With the mask I want to make it's not so important it matches me features exactly. He has no visible mouth and the eyes are lenses so the mask can be bigger than my head, I am just curious in general and for future sculpts (I have a couple of things I'd like to do if this goes well)"

Just take in account latex shrinks, so youĺl have to sculpt a big bigger to ensure it fits you.

"I also have some plaster bandages, swimming hat, vaseline and some stone plaster that I was toying with the idea of making a cheap life cast with. I've seen a couple of vids that do that, put the polystyrene head into the mould and filling it with plaster so you end up with your head on a base to work with. I like this idea because my fear with using the mannequin head is that it won't fit my head (I can always build up the clay so it does but I'm sure you appreciate my concerns)"

Ok, a lifecast is not a bad idea. Better alginate, but it can be done with plater bandage (NEVER with plain plaster).
Please bear in mind lifecasting is not something to play around with, you´re working on an alive subject. Watch as many tutorials as you can, practice with the materials before doing it with a person. Start with only part of the face for example, work with an assistant...or better, look for someone who has some experience to help in the first one.
If you go for a lifecast I would forget about the manequins. Cast a full plaster head, yes, heavy but easier.

Good luck with your project.
 
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Thanks for replying udog, very helpful :)

I did mean to say 'casting' not 'moulding' in that 1st one though.

I have attempted to make a full head plaster bandage cast of my head. I watched lots of vids and the cast came off incredibly easily but the detail isn't great and for some reason it doesn't seem to be drying. I did it 3 days ago and the casts are still slightly damp, They're not in a cold or damp place so I'm a little confused but there we go.. was just an experiment.

I think I will use the mannequin head and build up the clay on that to the right size (or slightly bigger due to shrinkage of course)

The dwelling method looks interesting, will have to watch some vids on that.

For molding I have a decent amount of stone plaster and some burlap strips to strengthen it with. I'd only heard of hydrocal in the states so wasn't sure you could get it in the UK (turns out you can) I had planned just to use the plaster for the mold but maybe getting some hydrocal would be a better idea?

What's the difference between ultracal and hydrocal (I'm sure its ultra I keep hearing mentioned on face-off)

Thanks for all the comments thus far.. making me feel a bit more comfortable to have a go :)
 
"What's the difference between ultracal and hydrocal"

Hydrocal is more porous. Its thought for absorption purposes. Basicly for pottery, the dweling system is also used in pottery so absorption is very important (important for latex too).
Ultracal (stone) is much harder and less porous.
Initialy Ultracal might last more runs before deteriorating but you can get many castings with Hydrocal and a better moisture draw. But I´d say this is something to consider if you are planning to produce many masks. In fact mask makers usualy have a foamfilled (or similar) master copy of the sculpt, made in urethane or silicone. When the molds wear out they remold the master copy.
Anyway, in your case both (or similar) will do. There are other brands around, Hydrocal and UC30 are the best known (and probably the best).

As for the plaster not drying, is it hard anyway?, totaly set but still humid? or is it soft?.
Plaster takes time to dry out totaly but should be firm and hard by next day at the latest.

If its soft or crumbly there might have been some problem in the mixing or in the plaster/water ratio.

As for the details, as long as the features are in their place it should work as a sculpting base.

Take in account manequin heads are ususally a thad smaler if you use them.
 
Fair enough, thanks :)

Looks like I can get hydrocal in the uk but not ultracal. There are other alternatives too such as Crystacal R or Herculite 2 which are all the same type of thing.

Will have to look into each and see what their various properties are.

I have some 'StoneCast Strong Casting Plaster for Fine Modelling' at home currently, this is what I'd originally bought. I have a feeling it should be ok to use as its designed to be strong and pick up fine detail. Might be worth testing out on a smaller sculpt. I'm stuck in the circle of not wanting to waste money on materials, but I also want to test what I do have to see if it'll work..

With the plaster not drying thing I mentioned, I'm only talking about the plaster bandages I tried a head cast with. They never seemed to dry out properly and remained damp and pliable. I did trim them and try to re-enforce them (the front and back casts I did of my head) and since leaving them in my warm conservatory for the last couple of days they seem a lot harder now but it's strange. None of the guides I watched mentioned this as an issue. Sure, it was solid enough to remove pretty quickly but yeh.. took ages to fully cure.

I think I'm getting ahead of myself a bit as I haven't even started the sculpt yet but what I don't want to do is spend hours and hours getting a nice sculpt done, then ruin it by botching up the molding/casting process.

Will be starting the sculpt this week though... looking forward to it :D
 
There are many plasters and stone around, I´ve heard about herculite and crystacal and I know these are alternatives in the UK. But can´t tell about how good they are. Never used them. What I know is that UC30 is probably the best stone plaster in it´s range....contraction close to zero.
Hydrocal is great for what you want, I wouldn´t doubt. But if your´e trying to cut off expenses you´ll have to try out what you´ve got. Sincerely, I´ve made so many molds with cheap plain plaster..it all depends on what you expect. Yes, stone, hydrocal, are more durable..but do you need that durability?, or once you finish this one, hopefully you will be moving to another one.
Well, if you want it durable, and a correct plaster for your purpose...Hydrocal.

There are many plaster bandages around, some are just not good. A standard is Gypsona for example, others, youll have to try.
When you soak the bandages you should squish out as much water as you can before putting them on. Also rubbing them against themselves before laying them "reactivates" a bit the plaster and speeds it up a little.
Using warm water helps too.
Maybe too much water, too wet?. Hit them with a hair dryer to see if it improves

Getting ahead is part of a project. If molding worries you practice with simpler stuff before molding your project.

Enjoy your sculpt and post the process!
 
Be cautious with the foam head you're sculpting on, I've found that often those foam "hat heads" are much smaller than most people's heads haha.
I usually measure mine and make them bigger by adding more foam in the middle to be a better size!
 
I've measured the plastic head I'm using. It's a little thinner width wise and a little longer depth wise than my head but that should be ok as I'll be building up clay to round out the sides anyway so I'll be compensating for that anyway (the whole thing will be larger than my head when done)

I did make a start on it yesterday, working with the monster clay is tough going so I've just picked up a cheap crockpot I can use to keep the clay warm. Heated it up in the oven 1st of all but it had cooled by the time I'd got a bit of clay on so ended up using a heatgun to warm the clay so I could cut strips off to put on the head and keep going like that but it was a pain so I'm hoping keeping warm clay next to me will work much better.

I've blocked out the main head shape how and need to start building up the forms and depth the head needs. (the eyes are quite sunken into the head).

Not as easy as I though this would be, but I am sensing the potential.. could be a powerful skill to have if I manage it :D
 
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