Mike Salzo 37.5 TOS BSG ?

Can anyone tell me the correct size Drill Bit I will need to drill out my holes for .75 Fiber Optics?I am going to take Mike suggestion and go with the .75 FO when I start building my kit.Very big Thank You to Mike for such a awesome model to build..


@Robiwon how is your Render coming along?

Thanks
Clarence
 
Can anyone tell me the correct size Drill Bit I will need to drill out my holes for .75 Fiber Optics?I am going to take Mike suggestion and go with the .75 FO when I start building my kit.Very big Thank You to Mike for such a awesome model to build..


@Robiwon how is your Render coming along?

Thanks
Clarence

I'll check on the render today with the person who is doing it. He's doing it in his spare time at work, so it's taking a while.
For your .75mm fiber optic you will need a no. 69 drill bit, and lots of them! :D

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drill_bit_sizes
 
Ok everyone I have another question pertaining to lighting my Galactica,what would you recommend I go with for LED's should I go with a warm white or just plain white which is a brighter white?

Thanks
Clarence
 
im using warm white led's for the lighting on my Galactica. I personally think the plain white is brighter but the warm white looked to be closer to the studio pics ive been looking at
 
Standard white LEDs tend to lean toward the blue spectrum. Warm white LEDs lean toward the yellow side. If you want to replicate the yellowish look of incandescent lights used in filming miniatures of that time period, definitely go with the warm whites.
 
Standard white LEDs tend to lean toward the blue spectrum. Warm white LEDs lean toward the yellow side. If you want to replicate the yellowish look of incandescent lights used in filming miniatures of that time period, definitely go with the warm whites.

+1 to the above, I will be using warm whites throughout except for the engine and landing bays and alternately be able to switch to reds in the bridge area.
 
+1 to the above, I will be using warm whites throughout except for the engine and landing bays and alternately be able to switch to reds in the bridge area.

Hmm, switching from white to red for the bridge is an interesting idea!
 
Standard white LEDs tend to lean toward the blue spectrum. Warm white LEDs lean toward the yellow side. If you want to replicate the yellowish look of incandescent lights used in filming miniatures of that time period, definitely go with the warm whites.

Thanks Robiwon,I will have to order some warm white from HDModelworx..

Thanks
Clarence
 
I'm looking forward to see how you guys do it. Please don't forget to document and post your progress for this lighting newbie.
 
I'm looking forward to see how you guys do it. Please don't forget to document and post your progress for this lighting newbie.

Oh Believe me this will be a newbie build for me also,I have know electronic skills whats so ever so I be looking for a lots of help when I do start on my kit..
 
Hello guys/gals, to those of you who are building the Mike Salzo TOS Galactica what color gray and red are you planing on using..there is so many shades of gray and red but I am not sure what ones I should go with,does any one know what the colors where on the studio version one was?

Thanks
Clarence
 
Want to say Thank You to Mike. I got a nice package today via Fedex.It is the Mike Salzo Resin kit the TOS Battlestar Galactica 37.5 inches long..I did not want to take it out of the packaging as I am not ready to build it just let..

Clarence

5240eb.jpg


d46ddd.jpg
 
I have a question regarding resin kits,do the parts need to be washed before you start gluing them together,I know with regular models they need to be washed before you glue and paint them but was on sure if resin kits need to be done the same,if so what should I use to wash the?

Thanks
Clarence
 
Vader, the answer is YES! Resin parts need to be washed before assembly and paint. The rubber molds used to make the parts are sprayed with a release agent making it easier to get the cured resin out of the mold. This release agent can cause havoc when trying to paint over it. You may not see or feel the "mold release" but it's there. As far as what to use I generally use regular dish soap although a lot will say to use something stronger like automotive whitewall tire cleaner. Any type of household degreaser should work, like Purple power or Simple Green. But for me regular liquid dish soap has worked.
 
Vader, the answer is YES! Resin parts need to be washed before assembly and paint. The rubber molds used to make the parts are sprayed with a release agent making it easier to get the cured resin out of the mold. This release agent can cause havoc when trying to paint over it. You may not see or feel the "mold release" but it's there. As far as what to use I generally use regular dish soap although a lot will say to use something stronger like automotive whitewall tire cleaner. Any type of household degreaser should work, like Purple power or Simple Green. But for me regular liquid dish soap has worked.

Thank You robiwon,I will do the same on both my resin kits,when you wash them you use just Luke war water correct?

I will make sure to go to sams club and get me a big bottle of dish detergent as I have a few kits I be needing it for..

Clarence
 
This thread is more than 9 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top