Is it just me or is it unnecessary to do all of this finishing to 3d prints? My 3d prints come out pretty smooth already. I wouldn't coat the whole thing in bondo, only especially bumpy areas. It doesn't seem very weak either, like it might break if you drop it but not super fragile. Seems like if you want to do all of this bondo you might as well do pepakura. Am I missing something?
As @creative stress mentioned. There are lots of print lines and since I did not raise the polycount in the models, the rounded shapes are not entirely smooth.
Xtc finisher is way too expensive for this kind of built. It also leaves a gloss finish, so you still have to sand it.
I usually put xtc on the inside for rigidity and then sand the outside. It works out great because I dropped a few buckets after I've done that and had nothing happen to them thankfully.
xtc is a type of resin that doesn't heat up hardly at all. I've used it on a lot of prints and really have never had any problems with it.
ive never had any probems with warping while using resin n cloth over all the mk 45 i did ....it gets warm but doesnt melt the plastic. I have resined n cloth the boots today to see how they will hold up so far so good only one coat of resin i will give it another coat tomorowI would hope so since it's specially made for that application
It is more expensive than resin however. So maybe I'll use a failed print to test the resin first.
Hi guys, it's interesting thread, i'm also buying duplicator i3 soon and this build was very helpfull, thanks. Right now i'm finishing my last pepakura project View attachment 620335 no fiberglass or bondo was used just smoothcast 300. So i was thinking maybe make a slushcast inside the printed part helps make it stronger.. i will defenetly try this out.
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Did anyone use something to connect the fingers together or only used a glove for that?
They fit well and I still have all my movement
Check out the Monoprice Maker Select instead
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A thin guitar string works good, or some wire. I also wear a thin mechanics glove underneath
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A thin guitar string works good, or some wire. I also wear a thin mechanics glove underneath
Thanks I'll check that out.
Anybody got any idea how this could happen?
View attachment 620577
Ever since I started printing the chest, the walls became thinner and it seems like the extruder doesn't provide enough flow or skips a layer now and then.
Didn't have this issue with previous prints and I didn't change the settings of Cura. The bed is also still leveled.
Thanks I'll check that out.
Anybody got any idea how this could happen?
View attachment 620577
Ever since I started printing the chest, the walls became thinner and it seems like the extruder doesn't provide enough flow or skips a layer now and then.
Didn't have this issue with previous prints and I didn't change the settings of Cura. The bed is also still leveled.
I was having that issue too a few months ago but figured out that the bed wasnt level and also that I had a partially clogged nozzle. Mainly however it was that the bed wasn't totally level. After I got it perfectly level I've never had that issue. I've got both a FF Dreamer and a FF Creator Pro.
Not sure if you had seen this trouble shooting guide for simplify3D. If your not using simplify, the principles still apply to most 3D printers. Its definitely helped me out quite a bit.
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/
If your printing in PLA then no point using acetone as it's for abs.
YouTube clearing a clog with PLA and a blow torch!
Another thing, order extra nozzles and PTFE tubing (if that's what it uses). They're not expensive and handy to have.
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