Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print

Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Shoulder and handpalm p7

13083344_1162828680417266_8396044069131882207_n.jpg13118948_1162828670417267_9025579615473063132_n.jpg13118976_1162828660417268_8824181725245141432_n.jpg

Did anyone use something to connect the fingers together or only used a glove for that?

They fit well and I still have all my movement :)
 
Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Shoulder and handpalm p7

Is it just me or is it unnecessary to do all of this finishing to 3d prints? My 3d prints come out pretty smooth already. I wouldn't coat the whole thing in bondo, only especially bumpy areas. It doesn't seem very weak either, like it might break if you drop it but not super fragile. Seems like if you want to do all of this bondo you might as well do pepakura. Am I missing something?

As creative stress mentioned. There are lots of print lines and since I did not raise the polycount in the models, the rounded shapes are not entirely smooth.

Xtc finisher is way too expensive for this kind of built. It also leaves a gloss finish, so you still have to sand it.
 
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Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Shoulder and handpalm p7

As @creative stress mentioned. There are lots of print lines and since I did not raise the polycount in the models, the rounded shapes are not entirely smooth.

Xtc finisher is way too expensive for this kind of built. It also leaves a gloss finish, so you still have to sand it.

I usually put xtc on the inside for rigidity and then sand the outside. It works out great because I dropped a few buckets after I've done that and had nothing happen to them thankfully.
 
Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Shoulder and handpalm p7

I usually put xtc on the inside for rigidity and then sand the outside. It works out great because I dropped a few buckets after I've done that and had nothing happen to them thankfully.

Resin on the inside could be a good alternative too I guess. Maybe in combination with fiberglass. I read that resin heats up during the curing process. Does this cause the PLA to melt? Or is that temperature minimal? I have no idea :)
 
Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Shoulder and handpalm p7

xtc is a type of resin that doesn't heat up hardly at all. I've used it on a lot of prints and really have never had any problems with it.
 
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Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Shoulder and handpalm p7

xtc is a type of resin that doesn't heat up hardly at all. I've used it on a lot of prints and really have never had any problems with it.

I would hope so since it's specially made for that application :)

It is more expensive than resin however. So maybe I'll use a failed print to test the resin first.
 
Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Shoulder and handpalm p7

Hi guys, it's interesting thread, i'm also buying duplicator i3 soon and this build was very helpfull, thanks. Right now i'm finishing my last pepakura project 9XFlf5wSCV0.jpg no fiberglass or bondo was used just smoothcast 300. So i was thinking maybe make a slushcast inside the printed part helps make it stronger.. i will defenetly try this out.
 
Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Shoulder and handpalm p7

I would hope so since it's specially made for that application :)

It is more expensive than resin however. So maybe I'll use a failed print to test the resin first.
ive never had any probems with warping while using resin n cloth over all the mk 45 i did ....it gets warm but doesnt melt the plastic. I have resined n cloth the boots today to see how they will hold up so far so good only one coat of resin i will give it another coat tomorow

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 
Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Shoulder and handpalm p7

Hi guys, it's interesting thread, i'm also buying duplicator i3 soon and this build was very helpfull, thanks. Right now i'm finishing my last pepakura project View attachment 620335 no fiberglass or bondo was used just smoothcast 300. So i was thinking maybe make a slushcast inside the printed part helps make it stronger.. i will defenetly try this out.

Check out the Monoprice Maker Select instead

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View attachment 620256View attachment 620257View attachment 620258

Did anyone use something to connect the fingers together or only used a glove for that?

They fit well and I still have all my movement :)

A thin guitar string works good, or some wire. I also wear a thin mechanics glove underneath
 
Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Shoulder and handpalm p7

Check out the Monoprice Maker Select instead

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A thin guitar string works good, or some wire. I also wear a thin mechanics glove underneath

Isnt it just a clone of wanhao like cocoon create? Also i dont have it available in russia)))

for fingers i used regular thin rubber from sewing store like that [video]https://www.instagram.com/p/BE2y5yTlLnx/[/video]
 
Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Shoulder and handpalm p7

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A thin guitar string works good, or some wire. I also wear a thin mechanics glove underneath

Thanks I'll check that out.

Anybody got any idea how this could happen?

Photo 01-05-16 09 10 25.jpg

Ever since I started printing the chest, the walls became thinner and it seems like the extruder doesn't provide enough flow or skips a layer now and then.

Didn't have this issue with previous prints and I didn't change the settings of Cura. The bed is also still leveled.
 
Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Shoulder and handpalm p7

Thanks I'll check that out.

Anybody got any idea how this could happen?

View attachment 620577

Ever since I started printing the chest, the walls became thinner and it seems like the extruder doesn't provide enough flow or skips a layer now and then.

Didn't have this issue with previous prints and I didn't change the settings of Cura. The bed is also still leveled.

Ive been 3D printing for a while now using a CTC Dual (makerbot clone) and i had the exact same problem with PLA.

You may have a clog in your extruder, or else you may need to adjust the temperature up if the filament is lower quality,

Personally speaking, once i switched over to ABS i've barely had any issues.
 
Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Shoulder and handpalm p7

I was having that issue too a few months ago but figured out that the bed wasnt level and also that I had a partially clogged nozzle. Mainly however it was that the bed wasn't totally level. After I got it perfectly level I've never had that issue. I've got both a FF Dreamer and a FF Creator Pro.
 
Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Shoulder and handpalm p7

Not sure if you had seen this trouble shooting guide for simplify3D. If your not using simplify, the principles still apply to most 3D printers. Its definitely helped me out quite a bit.

https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/


Thanks I'll check that out.

Anybody got any idea how this could happen?

View attachment 620577

Ever since I started printing the chest, the walls became thinner and it seems like the extruder doesn't provide enough flow or skips a layer now and then.

Didn't have this issue with previous prints and I didn't change the settings of Cura. The bed is also still leveled.
 
Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Shoulder and handpalm p7

I was having that issue too a few months ago but figured out that the bed wasnt level and also that I had a partially clogged nozzle. Mainly however it was that the bed wasn't totally level. After I got it perfectly level I've never had that issue. I've got both a FF Dreamer and a FF Creator Pro.

I'm pretty sure this will be a clogged extruder then. I recalibrated the bed several times to make absolutely shure it is not the levelling.

Not sure if you had seen this trouble shooting guide for simplify3D. If your not using simplify, the principles still apply to most 3D printers. Its definitely helped me out quite a bit.

https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

I have a few issues that occured after a while that are listed here and the cause that occurs in each issue is the clogged extruder. So I'll be taking that apart this evening. Let's hope this solve the entire issue.

What's the best way to "unclogg" the extruder? I see one where you have to submerge the tip in acetone for 24hours twice. But that seems a bit over the top?
 
Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Shoulder and handpalm p7

If your printing in PLA then no point using acetone as it's for abs.
YouTube clearing a clog with PLA and a blow torch!
Another thing, order extra nozzles and PTFE tubing (if that's what it uses). They're not expensive and handy to have.

Sent from my D2403 using Tapatalk
 
Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Shoulder and handpalm p7

If your printing in PLA then no point using acetone as it's for abs.
YouTube clearing a clog with PLA and a blow torch!
Another thing, order extra nozzles and PTFE tubing (if that's what it uses). They're not expensive and handy to have.

Sent from my D2403 using Tapatalk

I don't have a blowtorch, but a heatgun that can reach over 300°c.

I'm thinking of buying extra nozzles. Does come in handy now that I have this issue.
 
Re: Iron Man MK XLV 3D Print - Shoulder and handpalm p7

That might do the trick. I used a pair of long needle nose pliers to hold the nozzle, blasted it with a blow torch until it was exceptionally hot then used a sewing needle to push out the clogged PLA.

Sent from my D2403 using Tapatalk
 
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