Jyn Erso A180 Blaster 3D Model

Hello! I've been working on a 3D model of Jyn Erso's A180 blaster. I was inspired by the Rogue One Felicity Jones gun - ideas thread. This was done with the amazing assistance of @Thain's blueprints. Based on the original model of the Luger by Daniel Lillygreen which was then modified by Greaser57.

I did the shroud, barrel, underbarrel rail, screws, bolts (everything but the original model). I need to do the rear sights, the greeble opposite the takedown lever, and other modifications to make it more accurate.



Currently untextured (maybe later), done in Cinema 4D. My ultimate goal was to make pieces compatible to 3D print with a working Airsoft pistol, but I'm too poor and lack the mad skills to make my own! When I can't afford stuff, I tend to try to do them digitally. I highly referenced the models from the Star Wars Battlefront game, and photos from the aforementioned thread. I've got some questions and observations, but I'll add them in a later post. Let me know what you think. Be gentle, I'm only an amateur 3D modeler!

These look awesome!!
Are you planning on posting the files?

lindseyr said:

These look awesome!!
Are you planning on posting the files?

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Hmmm. Still undecided about posting it. Like I said before, I'm too poor to afford this prop. I would absolutely love to parlay my numerous hours working on this model into somehow getting a physical version in my hands. Maybe I can connect with some 3D printers on the site, and they'd print pieces out for me in return for me sending them the model.

In the other thread, SwarleyAUS observed that the receiver shoulder and the flange was missing. I've updated the model accordingly. Geez, this was a much bigger modification to the model that required more than I though it would to retain the beveling on the far portion of the receiver shoulder. I still need to fix the closer side of the receiver shoulder, but I'm seriously considering just cutting it as a straight edge. We'll see.



Observation: I've noticed that this panel is flat rather than having a rectangular "flare" on the original gun (maybe this is useful for identification of the original used prop?).

According to the model that I'm using, this piece appears to have a surface behind it that flares out close to the front. I'm hesitant to remove this panel (it would probably take forever to make it flat). Has anyone filed this part off of an actual physical version of their gun?

BatMcFly said:

Hmmm. Still undecided about posting it. Like I said before, I'm too poor to afford this prop. I would absolutely love to parlay my numerous hours working on this model into somehow getting a physical version in my hands. Maybe I can connect with some 3D printers on the site, and they'd print pieces out for me in return for me sending them the model.

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I’m sure there are plenty of people on the forum that would be interested in helping out. I am one of those, although it would probably be advantageous to work with those closest to you.

I would also love to help I have a delta style FDM printer of my own (it only has a radius of about 150mm though) and because I am on a college campus I have access to a Form Labs form 2 and a Makerbot (although these tend to be a little bit unreliable). I'm in upstate NY near Albany.

SpectreGadget said:

I’m sure there are plenty of people on the forum that would be interested in helping out. I am one of those, although it would probably be advantageous to work with those closest to you.

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lindseyr said:

I would also love to help I have a delta style FDM printer of my own (it only has a radius of about 150mm though) and because I am on a college campus I have access to a Form Labs form 2 and a Makerbot (although these tend to be a little bit unreliable). I'm in upstate NY near Albany.

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Awesome! Thanks to you both for the kind words. I greatly appreciate your enthusiasm, and look forward to possibly working with anyone interested in the project. I've got some questions for 3D print people down below.

Based on some comments from @Dann in the other thread, I've made the vent holes on the barrel a tad bit smaller. I've also retained the bevels of the receiver shoulder on both sides.



Things I need to do still do:
1. Greeble opposite the takedown lever
2. Adjust the small hole in the underbarrel rail to just an indentation and not a hole
3. Figure out how to connect the underbarrel rail to the gun (currently considering connecting it to the flange on the barrel).
4. Consider flattening the "flare" I've referenced before
5. Need to do testing on how specifically the barrel, shroud, and everything will connect. (This is probably where the 3D print guys will come in handy!)
-I've designed based on those presented in the other thread, but I need to trial and error some of it. I originally planned to make pieces for a working airsoft gun, but it should work either way
6. Rear sights. I probably need to redo the rear sights for accuracy, as the model I'm working on is different than the one's like these:

Toa Quarax said:

Here's a stock (heh) WE Luger for comparison (source):
View attachment 689384

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I greatly appreciate if anyone could post photos of the rear sight piece, especially if it is of just the rear sight piece disassembled by itself!

For those who are familiar with 3D printing, how clean does the model need to be? Like what if there are tiny (I mean like imperceptible) gaps between polygons. I'm just wondering whether or not I'm going to have to go over the model with a fine tooth comb...fingers crossed that I can avoid this.

BatMcFly said:

5. Need to do testing on how specifically the barrel, shroud, and everything will connect. (This is probably where the 3D print guys will come in handy!)
-I've designed based on those presented in the other thread, but I need to trial and error some of it. I originally planned to make pieces for a working airsoft gun, but it should work either way

Click to expand...

A couple of times, when I design something to be 3D printed, but need to be in multiple pieces, is create a copy, and then remove all but the focus piece, which can help make the right cutouts, etc. In this case, it might be better to think of how a real gun is put together, and keep the main pieces individual, with connection via small tabs, rods, etc. I find that close tolerances with relatively complex pieces make for nice tight-fitting assembly, which can minimize the need for glues, etc.

BatMcFly said:

For those who are familiar with 3D printing, how clean does the model need to be? Like what if there are tiny (I mean like imperceptible) gaps between polygons. I'm just wondering whether or not I'm going to have to go over the model with a fine tooth comb...fingers crossed that I can avoid this.

Click to expand...

In 3D printing terms, the model needs to be "watertight". There can be no gaps, but there are good tools for finding those issues and fixing them. Obviously, the cleaner the starting point, the cleaner the end results of any required repairs. If you have an example, I can run it through and show you how the tool identifies the gaps and results of the repaired file. This is more common than you might believe!

You might consider yourself amateur, but that looks awesome and probably be a really good prop! Can't wait

Thanks @SpectreGadget for the tips! Thanks @VenomCF for the kind words!

I spent the weekend going over the model looking at every modification point that I made, trying to make sure there were no problems.

Updates to the model
-Completely re-did the shroud piece using a different modeling method which allowed me to have the sexy bevels on the edges of the shroud (it's the "rounding" of edges so it reflects light off these edges - something almost nobody but modelers probably notice or care about!). Compare the pictures for the minuscule difference. You may also note that the size/shape of the shroud has slightly changed, let me know if there's a problem here that I overlooked.

-Completed the painstaking process (for a novice artist) of flattening the flare on the coverplate while retaining the bevel on the edges.

-I also re-worked all of the screws and metal pieces, so they would be more convenient for me to move around (that's why they're currently gray).

-Adjusted the small hole in the underbarrel rail to just an indentation (and not a hole).




Things I need to do still do:
1. Clean up the new shroud piece (watertight).
2. Greeble opposite the takedown lever
3. Figure out how to connect the underbarrel rail to the gun (currently considering connecting it to the flange on the barrel).
4. Need to do testing on how specifically the barrel, shroud, and everything will connect.
5. Rear sights

All of your comments are welcome and appreciated!

Thanks to @Dann for the photos of the rear sight over in the other thread. Focused on the rear sight this weekend. I had trouble finding some really good blueprint-like shots from Google, I had to kind of estimate dimensions based on my base model. If someone happens to have a blueprint model or photos of the actual pieces let me know (I've already image searched the crap out of Google, so no need to look there unless you know a cheat code).



​
Updates to the model
-Decreased the size of the holes in the gun barrel
-Rear Sights. Painstakingly modified from the base model. These are just my first versions, will definitely need updating. Just for fun, here's some comparison shots of the rear sights.


New version on the left and old version on the right

New version on the right and old version on the left

More photos of the modified rear sights




Things I need to do:
1. Clean up the new shroud piece (watertight).
2. Greeble opposite the takedown lever
3. Figure out how to connect the underbarrel rail to the gun (currently considering connecting it to the flange on the barrel).
4. Need to do testing on how specifically the barrel, shroud, and everything will connect.
5. Rear sights - Update (need to add the 2 indentations to the rail of the rear sight) and clean up (watertight).

All of your comments are welcome and appreciated!

Great lookin' blaster! Are there any updates to this?

Wow! This is looking pretty fantastic! Shame it seems to have fallen by the wayside...

Ugh, now I'm spending too much time looking at blaster models...