Ha. It's probably the same old box being passed around to all of the resellers to demo the shoes for their videos.
Official V3 Nike MAG Replica Thread - V3 Discussion Thread
- Thread starter cavx
- Start date
AjiPro
Sr Member
I don't know if this matters to anyone else, but I have made some observations about the box
If the entire section circled in green can be rotated and moved to the middle connecting part (Circled in blue), then the box is actual EXTREMELY more accurate then we originally thought. It appears that the part circled in blue on the V4 box is missing the raised white edges on the part of the real box circled in blue
Update
Judging by these pictures
The acrylic / plastic part is removable and can be rotated. However, there's raised white edges to hold it in place
If the entire section circled in green can be rotated and moved to the middle connecting part (Circled in blue), then the box is actual EXTREMELY more accurate then we originally thought. It appears that the part circled in blue on the V4 box is missing the raised white edges on the part of the real box circled in blue
Update
Judging by these pictures
The acrylic / plastic part is removable and can be rotated. However, there's raised white edges to hold it in place
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cavx
Master Member
I like that box less than I like the yellow box. What does someone do with that? At least the yellow box is somewhat displayable. That white (elephant) box will just take up so much room.
DragonGalvy
Sr Member
I was able to complete gluing down the new sole today (only the left shoe) after doing parts of it in small steps after work in the afternoons this week.
I used Tarzan's Grip as the main bonding agent with some dots of super glue to hold the area I was gluing in place while the Tarzan's Grip dried.
I'd glue one area (beginning with the outer side and working my way under and across to the inner side) in 'patches' - didn't want to miss any area and have any of the sole come off. However, this process worked perfectly with the V2 replacement soles I got from Cavx ages ago, (never loosened) so that's why I did it this way. It does produce a slight mottled pattern as you see in one of the photos, but strangely this only shows up in some light and not others.
A reasonable result, I think. I did go a bit overboard with extra Tarzan's Grip around the edging of the panels, as I really don't want any dirt getting in behind and spoiling it. (circled area at heel on one photo) - only someone looking at the shoe in-hand would notice the glue extending slightly outside the rubber, where it wouldn't from the factory.
My advice to anyone wanting to do this is to be very patient and not try to do it all in one go.
As you can see in the last photo, I added an extra layer of clear plastic under the inner area of the heel, to see if it feels as though it lessens the 'lean' that MAGs have. It's not particularly noticeable either, as I was able to line it up with the grid pattern.
Maybe next week I'll be able to do the other one. As with all projects of this type, I'm guilty of wanting it 'to just be done already!' but patiently doing a bit at a time has given me a result I'm reasonably happy with.
I used Tarzan's Grip as the main bonding agent with some dots of super glue to hold the area I was gluing in place while the Tarzan's Grip dried.
I'd glue one area (beginning with the outer side and working my way under and across to the inner side) in 'patches' - didn't want to miss any area and have any of the sole come off. However, this process worked perfectly with the V2 replacement soles I got from Cavx ages ago, (never loosened) so that's why I did it this way. It does produce a slight mottled pattern as you see in one of the photos, but strangely this only shows up in some light and not others.
A reasonable result, I think. I did go a bit overboard with extra Tarzan's Grip around the edging of the panels, as I really don't want any dirt getting in behind and spoiling it. (circled area at heel on one photo) - only someone looking at the shoe in-hand would notice the glue extending slightly outside the rubber, where it wouldn't from the factory.
My advice to anyone wanting to do this is to be very patient and not try to do it all in one go.
As you can see in the last photo, I added an extra layer of clear plastic under the inner area of the heel, to see if it feels as though it lessens the 'lean' that MAGs have. It's not particularly noticeable either, as I was able to line it up with the grid pattern.
Maybe next week I'll be able to do the other one. As with all projects of this type, I'm guilty of wanting it 'to just be done already!' but patiently doing a bit at a time has given me a result I'm reasonably happy with.
AjiPro
Sr Member
$1000 using WU
AjiPro
Sr Member
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UiBsHU1AAWs
Only video so far that's given a clear, 100% undeniable view that only 1 button is being pressed at 1:55
But the VERY next video that the same channel posted: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q45UOhmFvns , from 1:14 to 1:22, when she presses the buttons, the laces go 'tight, loose, loose, tight', instead of what we'd expect of 'tight, loose, tight, loose'. It's the same pair in both videos, and to make it even more interesting, the shoe in the first video at 1:55 and the one in the second video from 1:14 to 1:22 is the right shoe. So, we have one video of a right shoe which tightens and loosens with the same button, and another video with the SAME right shoe that is loosened twice with 2 button pushes. Wonder what to make of this....
Only video so far that's given a clear, 100% undeniable view that only 1 button is being pressed at 1:55
But the VERY next video that the same channel posted: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q45UOhmFvns , from 1:14 to 1:22, when she presses the buttons, the laces go 'tight, loose, loose, tight', instead of what we'd expect of 'tight, loose, tight, loose'. It's the same pair in both videos, and to make it even more interesting, the shoe in the first video at 1:55 and the one in the second video from 1:14 to 1:22 is the right shoe. So, we have one video of a right shoe which tightens and loosens with the same button, and another video with the SAME right shoe that is loosened twice with 2 button pushes. Wonder what to make of this....
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DragonGalvy
Sr Member
Well, as much as I was looking at my sole swap with the critical eye of 'it's not as good as a factory job' - these new pics I took this morning comparing it to the one I haven't swapped show the clear sole looks much better than the yellowing original...... especially underneath! (I did dye the side of this pair a couple months ago, but only lightly)
And that pic shows you see what I mean about the 'mottling' effect not always visible. Hope I can do the right one after work this week....
And that pic shows you see what I mean about the 'mottling' effect not always visible. Hope I can do the right one after work this week....
cavx
Master Member
I am now tempted
Still ouch though.
$1000USD = $1303.05AUD
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I guess we won't really know until we get a pair.
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That left shoe looks so much better than the right.
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DragonGalvy
Sr Member
I bought the clear soles from WizardBTTF.
Best to contact him about them.
I replaced the EL Panels with a GITD kit I bought from cavx.
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cavx
Master Member
DragonGalvy Have you given them a full charge yet?
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Man I would love to do this! My only fear is getting the old soles off without damage. I tried it with the V2s, got them off but it wasn't pretty.
cavx
Master Member
Heat is your friend. I did a whole video showing how I used a small heat gun and wooden stick to get the V2 soles off.
I used the same heat gun and a butter knife and the V3 soles popped right off.
Anyway here is how my display pair is looking now.
Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
AjiPro
Sr Member
Looking good
Are these the GITD you produce? How bright are they? I don't think I have seen a set in the dark, I may be mistaken.
cavx
Master Member
https://www.instagram.com/p/BBSMSV8FQSx/?hl=en&taken-by=cavx01
Once fully charged, they are as bright as EL. The problem is, that they loose brightness quickly. They glow (dimly) for at least 6 hours.
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The risk is the same no matter where you live. Most pairs go through, but every now and then, customs snag a pair.
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