Nice! Sounds a lot easier than my method... Had my father-in-law machine away the black on my Bosley cap and then ADD knurling.
Yoda VD lightsaber discussion
- Thread starter mandio222
- Start date
see I knew it could be done!!! my machinist friend didn't want to try it on my no knurled cap! he was afraid it would warp it
I knew there was enough material there to be safe!
if your brother in law is willing, I bet a bunch of guys would want their caps knurled!
LOL. As hopeful as that sounds, it didn't turn out that great... :\ The aluminum is so soft it ended up chattering while cutting the knurl. So it ended up looking a bit messed up unfortunately. Maybe one day when I have a small lathe, i'll tackle trying to get some better knurling out of these Bosley endcaps.
aww shucks, I'm sorry to hear..
maybe just try and fabricate the hole cap from scratch? you could always buy a bolsey with the knurled cap with brass prongs, and bring that to a machinist. see how much it would cost to fabricate it without the holes machined for the brass prongs
whats up yoda saber gang!
so tonight i organized my new workbench and dug out all my yoda saber stuff I've been hiding. now with the clean cap I'm ready to start moving forward. my praco doesn't have the brass slide rivet on it.
Andy had a extra bosley so i grabbed one from him and it has the brass slide rivet but its on the opposite side of the flash compared to this picture above. (which came out to 1.325") so i was going to transfer the slide rivet form the bolsey to the praco. but now i have begun to worry... i measured the distance of the rivet hole to the top of the bolsey flash after i removed it. BUT i now have some butterflies... is the praco the same measurement from the top? if i drill too high i will have a ugly hole drilled into the praco..
does anyone know the exact measurement of the rivet above? from the top of the flash tube to the rivet (not the top of the wheel)
i also came on here looking for measurements of grip locations and stuff but i can't seem to find them anymore? i know i had saved it on my old PC but that thing is destroyed now
any advice for finding the location of where to put the brass slide rivet?
i appreciate it gang! as always have a good night!
danny
so tonight i organized my new workbench and dug out all my yoda saber stuff I've been hiding. now with the clean cap I'm ready to start moving forward. my praco doesn't have the brass slide rivet on it.
Andy had a extra bosley so i grabbed one from him and it has the brass slide rivet but its on the opposite side of the flash compared to this picture above. (which came out to 1.325") so i was going to transfer the slide rivet form the bolsey to the praco. but now i have begun to worry... i measured the distance of the rivet hole to the top of the bolsey flash after i removed it. BUT i now have some butterflies... is the praco the same measurement from the top? if i drill too high i will have a ugly hole drilled into the praco..
does anyone know the exact measurement of the rivet above? from the top of the flash tube to the rivet (not the top of the wheel)
i also came on here looking for measurements of grip locations and stuff but i can't seem to find them anymore? i know i had saved it on my old PC but that thing is destroyed now
any advice for finding the location of where to put the brass slide rivet?
i appreciate it gang! as always have a good night!
danny
whats up yoda saber gang!
so tonight i organized my new workbench and dug out all my yoda saber stuff I've been hiding. now with the clean cap I'm ready to start moving forward. my praco doesn't have the brass slide rivet on it.
http://www.therpf.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=285780&d=1392314290&thumb=1
Andy had a extra bosley so i grabbed one from him and it has the brass slide rivet but its on the opposite side of the flash compared to this picture above. (which came out to 1.325") so i was going to transfer the slide rivet form the bolsey to the praco. but now i have begun to worry... i measured the distance of the rivet hole to the top of the bolsey flash after i removed it. BUT i now have some butterflies... is the praco the same measurement from the top? if i drill too high i will have a ugly hole drilled into the praco..
does anyone know the exact measurement of the rivet above? from the top of the flash tube to the rivet (not the top of the wheel)
i also came on here looking for measurements of grip locations and stuff but i can't seem to find them anymore? i know i had saved it on my old PC but that thing is destroyed now
any advice for finding the location of where to put the brass slide rivet?
i appreciate it gang! as always have a good night!
danny
When I created my Yoda saber based on my Bosley flash I left the brass rivet on the "incorrect side". This will cause my saber to be mirrored from the real Praco version. I didn't mind this much for my build, as muggles won't know any better...
When it came to assembling components and adding the grips, I referenced this below blueprint from the VD as well as pictures of original Praco version people have posted here. Between the two sources I came up with my own representation.
this is exactly what I was talking about!! thank you very much!
I think with all these measurements I can find the right spot to drill now, thank you!!
You're welcome. I don't always trust dimensions on prints like that though. I think Sym-Cha once said it best: "Go with what feels right".
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Ok guys, its been a long day. my plan was to have my girlfriend hold the camcorder she got me for xmas and show a detailed video on how to remove the anodize. but she was forced into a double shift, i explained to her that i needed her today and explained the above. thats when she told me ".... duuuh thats why i got you the tripod!" LOL i totally forgot about that! so i set it up in the back yard and made this little video showing you how I removed the anodize with simple house hold oven cleaner.
i used the bolsey cap for a example, honestly the bolsey cap had a thicker coat of anodize then the knurled praco, but you will see how i handled it. hope this video helps!!
https://youtu.be/bdkrYgCARlw
This is how the cap looks after that soaking it got in the video. it doesn't take long before the oven clean ages the metal surface. no worries, just fill the sink with warm soapy water and rub it with some scotchbrite under the water.
here is 30 seconds of scotchbrite rub down. you can always polish this back up if you want
i used the bolsey cap for a example, honestly the bolsey cap had a thicker coat of anodize then the knurled praco, but you will see how i handled it. hope this video helps!!
https://youtu.be/bdkrYgCARlw
This is how the cap looks after that soaking it got in the video. it doesn't take long before the oven clean ages the metal surface. no worries, just fill the sink with warm soapy water and rub it with some scotchbrite under the water.
here is 30 seconds of scotchbrite rub down. you can always polish this back up if you want
Good news everyone! What do we think of this first attempt? I need to increase the height of the lowest cylinder on the bottom. But besides that, I think it's pretty close.
1. I did not include the valve stem from original. (too small to print correctly, plus this can help identify my version)
2. I designed this version with the hole already there for mounting the emitter. No need to drill thru the complicated hub round on original.
3. Already colored black, just need to slightly clean and spray another layer of black of your choice.
4. I do not have the correct mounting screw right now so it's being barely held by the original Bosley.
1. I did not include the valve stem from original. (too small to print correctly, plus this can help identify my version)
2. I designed this version with the hole already there for mounting the emitter. No need to drill thru the complicated hub round on original.
3. Already colored black, just need to slightly clean and spray another layer of black of your choice.
4. I do not have the correct mounting screw right now so it's being barely held by the original Bosley.
Thanks guys. I'm pretty impressed by the quality of this high-definition acrylate. The print lines are very crisp and clean. Looks damn good the way it came, and after a thin layer of paint I'm thinking it will look even better. Overall I think this first attempt turned out pretty great. I will be fine-tuning some areas soon and then I will have an updated one made. If everything turns out good, I'll order a small batch of these to sell here for everyone.
So the original wheel does have the valve stem? I just ordered a model off the Bay for under $30, but the wheels were chromed and the stem kinda threw me a bit. The model number looked correct so here is hoping. Now I need to get ahold of sjanish for the oilpan and maybe grips. Any car parts store would/should have the carb jet right? Dunno what I'll do about the nut yet
Well, my model came in! The only problem is that it was mostly assembled so now I need something to dissolve model glue. The odd part was is that the correct shorter wheels were in the rear with the larger tires and the taller wheels in the front. Another thing I noticed was the spare has a slightly smaller diameter than the correct wheel.
Also, I've only got Bolsey's for this which doesn't bother me at all but I did notice a difference in the top discs.
This one only has one slot for the shroud:
This one has two slots:
Also, I've only got Bolsey's for this which doesn't bother me at all but I did notice a difference in the top discs.
This one only has one slot for the shroud:
This one has two slots:
phunkymunky
Well-Known Member
That makes two of us :lol
I was actually about to post on here soon.I had a second prototype made that I'm pretty happy with. But I've been super busy with work and school these last few months to get a bigger order made of these.
Here are some pics of the actual wheel, the first proto, and the second proto.
What's everyone's thoughts? I think I have a couple minor changes to do still, but I feel it's pretty close. Note some wall thicknesses like the bottom nub are thicker than the actual wheel because the thickness is too small to print properly, even using high definition. One of my updates will be to try to make that bottom nub have a thinner wall, closer to the real one.
After I get a final prototype back that I am happy with I plan on ordering a small batch. Afterwards I'll have to setup my Premium Membership in order to create a Selling Thread.
What's everyone's thoughts? I think I have a couple minor changes to do still, but I feel it's pretty close. Note some wall thicknesses like the bottom nub are thicker than the actual wheel because the thickness is too small to print properly, even using high definition. One of my updates will be to try to make that bottom nub have a thinner wall, closer to the real one.
After I get a final prototype back that I am happy with I plan on ordering a small batch. Afterwards I'll have to setup my Premium Membership in order to create a Selling Thread.
talk about progress!! very very nice!!
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