Zvezda Avenger-Class ISD-II - WIP

[korben44]

I would take a look at Mr Color's Mr Surfacer 1500 Black... That stuff goes on very, very thin. I use it on all my models from 1/48 to 1/2,700,000 (the Death Star 2)... If you look here, I've used Mr Surfacer and then a base coat on top with no loss of detail at all:

 

[INVAR]

If I might...my hobby shop guy suggested the Citadel stuff to me way back when and I go through lots of it, the Chaos and the Corax. When properly applied it goes on like air brush and dries just as fast. I've lost none of the super fine detail on any of my Bandai stuff. The black of course as a primer and the Corax as the top. I get the gray hue I like for space vehicles and can always adjust it with light applications of acrylics via the air brush...and the clean up is a snap...water. Sure it's like 17 bucks a can but it goes a long way and the results are top shelf for rattle cans, which is great for a simpleton like myself

Thanks! That is STELLAR advice that goes along with the experience I already have. I have never used my airbrush for large surface applications like priming or base coats - I've always used rattle cans for that and saved the airbrush for detail work and panel enhancements.

So for the Zvezda I may do this. But for the Bandai kits - I think I am going to invest in the Stylrez for priming given the issues I have read about the plastic on those kits and hot solvent-based paints. I did experience a bit of that on the Y-wing and have stuck with using only acrylics on Bandai kits since then, being able to forego priming on the Snowspeeder and AT-AT. I will likely need to invest in a lot given I have the 1/144 falcon, the B-wing, the A-wing, the 1/48 moving X-wing, the Resistance X-wing, the classic TIE and the mini-vehicles DS II & Star Destroyer to build yet.

 

[gt350pony66]

I would take a look at Mr Color's Mr Surfacer 1500 Black... That stuff goes on very, very thin. I use it on all my models from 1/48 to 1/2,700,000 (the Death Star 2)... If you look here, I've used Mr Surfacer and then a base coat on top with no loss of detail at all:

View attachment 979959 View attachment 979956

Well I'm glad you got the scale right on that DSII! LOL is that really the scale? that was a swag on my part

 

[gt350pony66]

Thanks! That is STELLAR advice that goes along with the experience I already have. I have never used my airbrush for large surface applications like priming or base coats - I've always used rattle cans for that and saved the airbrush for detail work and panel enhancements.

So for the Zvezda I may do this. But for the Bandai kits - I think I am going to invest in the Stylrez for priming given the issues I have read about the plastic on those kits and hot solvent-based paints. I did experience a bit of that on the Y-wing and have stuck with using only acrylics on Bandai kits since then, being able to forego priming on the Snowspeeder and AT-AT. I will likely need to invest in a lot given I have the 1/144 falcon, the B-wing, the A-wing, the 1/48 moving X-wing, the Resistance X-wing, the classic TIE and the mini-vehicles DS II & Star Destroyer to build yet.

I agree, but for me it's the lack of skill with the air brush on large areas.

 

[korben44]

The problem with rattle cans, compared to an airbrush, is control. I used my airbrush to prime my Perfect Grade 1/72 Falcon with no issues. The other factor is that you can really control how thick your paint is with an airbrush. In a can, you're stuck with what you got. One mistake and you're in clean-up hell...

Obviously, INVAR, you, along with the others here, are skilled modelers. Just throwing my 2 cents out there.

 

[3Dsf]

The problem with rattle cans, compared to an airbrush, is control.

I know. I sprayed a test print of the ESB pits with some primer, and it suddenly went blurrrp out of the rattlecan. Totally trashed it, and I had to soak it in IPA and scrub it all off and redo it...

 

[INVAR]

The problem with rattle cans, compared to an airbrush, is control. I used my airbrush to prime my Perfect Grade 1/72 Falcon with no issues. The other factor is that you can really control how thick your paint is with an airbrush. In a can, you're stuck with what you got. One mistake and you're in clean-up hell...

Obviously, INVAR, you, along with the others here, are skilled modelers. Just throwing my 2 cents out there.

Well thanks, but coverage painting is a weak spot in my skill set. I dig what you did with your little DSII - I have not painted mine yet. I primed it with some gray Tamiya surface primer and was looking at using a light gray acrylic for the recessed areas ala the model. However, my original idea was to do a kind of wash - but given the primer is darker than the color I want in the recessed areas I am thinking I am going to be stuck having to do it with a brush which will be tedious.

 

[korben44]

Well thanks, but coverage painting is a weak spot in my skill set. I dig what you did with your little DSII - I have not painted mine yet. I primed it with some gray Tamiya surface primer and was looking at using a light gray acrylic for the recessed areas ala the model. However, my original idea was to do a kind of wash - but given the primer is darker than the color I want in the recessed areas I am thinking I am going to be stuck having to do it with a brush which will be tedious.

Well, you could just use a light wash... Washes can be any color you want. I've used white washes before and they worked rather well. Just a thought and would save you a ton of time from hand brushing...lol...

 

[Escape068]

Hi Invar, Awesome build. Detail is through the roof! What I found with using FO is that when you use a solvent based paint/primer on them they become brittle. It's when they break off before you get a chance to cut them is where they may become dimmer than the other ones you cut. If all the FO is sticking out from the early stages of your build you can't avoid touching them and any back and forth bending causes them to weaken and then eventually break off. The lacquer paint makes it easier for them to break off but I don't think using acrylic paint will cause them to get brittle or not nearly as much using lacquer. When you cut the FO it's a nice smooth cut and the lights transmits well. When they break off it's not a clean cut. The light does not transmit well and it's dimmer in some cases. That may not be a problem if you want variations in the lighting. Now I try to prime first then insert all the FO through the holes and I cover them as much as possible so they don't bend and get hit with stray paint. If there happens to be one that is too dim and looks out of place I just go over the FO with a dot of black paint then the base color and it's covered. I mainly use lacquer paint on my builds and use some acrylics for highlights and washes. Hope this helps.

 

[INVAR]

Thanks for all the advice folks, especially the painting tips with the fiber consideration.

Just finished greebling up the conning tower rooftop where the Falcon 3D shield generator globes will eventually sit. Even this chunk of plastic on the Zvezda was boxy plain in comparison to the ILM Avenger photos.



So, once again - me and my trusty No. 11 went work.



Now I'm onto the underside of the conning tower, and am cutting and adding a lit bay that is seen in the establishing shot of the Imperial fleet as the Avenger tower passes overhead.

 

[korben44]

Brilliant!

 

[angrytrooper]

I can't wait to see some of the detail when primed.. That is really going to ad a lot of satisfaction to all the hard work in detailing this model.
Also I am even more intimidated to start mine it will be a marathon for me..
Please detail how you light this the actual fiber, power and LED's used. But keep at the detailing you are really making this kit look great and showing what can be achieved.. fascinating detail.

 

[gt350pony66]

I think I've used up all the words in my vocabulary So I'll have to second what Korban says, BRILLIANT!!

 

[INVAR]

It certainly does not feel 'brilliant'. Tedious, yes. Brilliant - well.... I will wait until it's painted, lit and finished before I assess whether or not I am in the same league with other masters here.

So I went on to build the underside Bridge bay the you see in the opening shot in ESB and later on in this shot:



And after carving out the approximate location, and adding a couple greebs and drilled holes for some orange fiber lights in those - I built a box with some photo etched brass detailing and added a tube for a white pico LED to shine through as a spotlight of sorts to illuminate the inside bay area. I may end up being the only one who notices that tiny detail, but I know it's there and that's what counts, right?

 

[korben44]

That's a beautiful level of attention to detail that your fellow modeler's here will appreciate!

 

[stevielewis]

Amazing!

 

[gt350pony66]

yep, Brilliant is definitely the word. and when you refer to masters here...you're one of them my friend

 

[INVAR]

Plodding along...

Back spine and garbage chute greebed-up. I took a pass on buying 3d Shapeways entire back spine piece so I can use those funds for more LEDs and fiber and just went with Falcon 3Ds garbage chute and added all the nitty gritty details myself.

 

[gt350pony66]

and while waiting for flaky GT to send you some pieces he has left over from his ISD

 

[Roy Batty]

I am about to start my Revell Star Destroyer and had a thought about drilling holes for the fiber optics...would it be feasible to make a "template" with perforated sheet metal in order to get the "windows" to line up? I mean, if you could find a piece with the correct diameter holes, and cut a row out (to length) for the various spots you need to drill? Would this be a waste of my time?