This wasn't my first attempt!In appreciation of the clean soldering at this scale!
A few went in the bin! Ha
A few went in the bin! Ha
GhostbusterDan
Sr Member
Has anybody considered using and modifying Korbanths control box for this?
https://www.korbanth.com/products/ls6-gullwing-hero-control-box-with-light-up-function?variant=31284740161606
You could ditch the control box and use the PCB and battery. As the PCB is set up to make them flash in sequence ..
Video of them in action:
Credit to Khal at KR Sabers for the idea as I asked for his help and he suggested it .. legend.
https://www.korbanth.com/products/ls6-gullwing-hero-control-box-with-light-up-function?variant=31284740161606
You could ditch the control box and use the PCB and battery. As the PCB is set up to make them flash in sequence ..
Video of them in action:
Credit to Khal at KR Sabers for the idea as I asked for his help and he suggested it .. legend.
Finally got the second retention screw installed in my Yuma.
The increase in stability from having a second fixing point has convinced me that the second retention point was functional on the Yuma, and that the depth of the tang was much deeper than it is today on the Hero. It follows then, that it's been filled at some point in the props' history in my opinion.
I've chosen to remove the electrical tape on the blade. The diagonal lines in the reference image are present on the hilt as well as the blade, so I've concluded that they're artifacts in the image, rather than evidence of the blade having been wrapped. That said, there is clearly something over the collar, or perhaps it was simply painted to match the colour of the blade (which was black to stand out against the blue sky).
It's a great feeling to finally get the blade secured, and to swing it around. There's a real feeling of replaying history, which is incredibly satisfying.
The increase in stability from having a second fixing point has convinced me that the second retention point was functional on the Yuma, and that the depth of the tang was much deeper than it is today on the Hero. It follows then, that it's been filled at some point in the props' history in my opinion.
I've chosen to remove the electrical tape on the blade. The diagonal lines in the reference image are present on the hilt as well as the blade, so I've concluded that they're artifacts in the image, rather than evidence of the blade having been wrapped. That said, there is clearly something over the collar, or perhaps it was simply painted to match the colour of the blade (which was black to stand out against the blue sky).
It's a great feeling to finally get the blade secured, and to swing it around. There's a real feeling of replaying history, which is incredibly satisfying.
GhostbusterDan
Sr Member
Finally got the second retention screw installed in my Yuma.
View attachment 1359521
View attachment 1359515
View attachment 1359517
View attachment 1359516
The increase in stability from having a second fixing point has convinced me that the second retention point was functional on the Yuma, and that the depth of the tang was much deeper than it is today on the Hero. It follows then, that it's been filled at some point in the props' history in my opinion.
I've chosen to remove the electrical tape on the blade. The diagonal lines in the reference image are present on the hilt as well as the blade, so I've concluded that they're artifacts in the image, rather than evidence of the blade having been wrapped. That said, there is clearly something over the collar, or perhaps it was simply painted to match the colour of the blade (which was black to stand out against the blue sky).
View attachment 1359519
View attachment 1359518
View attachment 1359520
It's a great feeling to finally get the blade secured, and to swing it around. There's a real feeling of replaying history, which is incredibly satisfying.
Love it Dave!
chazzychaz
Sr Member
Congratulations!Finally got the second retention screw installed in my Yuma.
View attachment 1359521
View attachment 1359515
View attachment 1359517
View attachment 1359516
The increase in stability from having a second fixing point has convinced me that the second retention point was functional on the Yuma, and that the depth of the tang was much deeper than it is today on the Hero. It follows then, that it's been filled at some point in the props' history in my opinion.
I've chosen to remove the electrical tape on the blade. The diagonal lines in the reference image are present on the hilt as well as the blade, so I've concluded that they're artifacts in the image, rather than evidence of the blade having been wrapped. That said, there is clearly something over the collar, or perhaps it was simply painted to match the colour of the blade (which was black to stand out against the blue sky).
View attachment 1359519
View attachment 1359518
View attachment 1359520
It's a great feeling to finally get the blade secured, and to swing it around. There's a real feeling of replaying history, which is incredibly satisfying.
Thanks Tom. Yeah, I guess there's no way of knowing for sure, how long it would have been? Unless the actual screen used blade is found one day! Definitely longer than the 10mm or so depth on the Hero though. I stopped short of compromising the strength of the neck which seemed to make sense.
The blade itself is pretty light, being fibreglass and not very long, so it hasn't shifted the point of balance by much. It's around the middle of the grip/grenade section.
I don't know, Drew. Looks like you've nailed it! Awesome job!
I may have inadvertently stumbled upon something very interesting...
So, I've been experimenting behind the scenes with ways of lighting up the triangles on my Hero control box. A number of people have done a fantastic job of replicating the interactive box as seen in the deleted cave scene, and have successfully managed to fit everything in there, including batteries and switches. So, it is certainly possible that it was a self contained unit. I have had my doubts though, and my latest experiment might just have swung it for me.
For my own personal display piece, I decided that I want the lights to be blinking in a random pattern, indefinitely and wanted the ability to change the batteries without disturbing the actual hilt. I figured that an external battery was the way to go.
As soon as I made the decision and started to think about how I'd do it, a began finding that the design of the actual prop miraculously facilitated an external battery.
The gap between the box and the clamp card is what some consider to be an ugly and unnecessary addition, to what was previously a more esthetically pleasing setup, but it just so happens to be perfect for feeding wires out of the box.
The faux circuit board that covered the internals of the box on the original prop just happened to have been cut down exactly where I needed to cut mine.
The clamp card, when slid back to reveal the board, just happens to conveniently hide the missing portion, as well as any wires that have been fed through it and out of the back of the box.
Having finally set it up, I now believe that something similar to this may well have been the actual set up during filming. Obviously, there would have been a more complex set up than mine to allow for independent control of each triangle, and to match Mark Hamill's performance. I think there's at least a very strong possibility that wires were fed around the back of the prop, or up Hamill's sleeve (as they were on previous occasions).
**Just a note on my reveal board for anyone thinking I've been holding back on a better version... The 3D printed part that I have on my microprocessor was a gift that was kindly sent to me by someone who chose to upgrade their board. This isn't something that I was able to include on the standard boards unfortunately.
So, I've been experimenting behind the scenes with ways of lighting up the triangles on my Hero control box. A number of people have done a fantastic job of replicating the interactive box as seen in the deleted cave scene, and have successfully managed to fit everything in there, including batteries and switches. So, it is certainly possible that it was a self contained unit. I have had my doubts though, and my latest experiment might just have swung it for me.
For my own personal display piece, I decided that I want the lights to be blinking in a random pattern, indefinitely and wanted the ability to change the batteries without disturbing the actual hilt. I figured that an external battery was the way to go.
As soon as I made the decision and started to think about how I'd do it, a began finding that the design of the actual prop miraculously facilitated an external battery.
The gap between the box and the clamp card is what some consider to be an ugly and unnecessary addition, to what was previously a more esthetically pleasing setup, but it just so happens to be perfect for feeding wires out of the box.
The faux circuit board that covered the internals of the box on the original prop just happened to have been cut down exactly where I needed to cut mine.
The clamp card, when slid back to reveal the board, just happens to conveniently hide the missing portion, as well as any wires that have been fed through it and out of the back of the box.
Having finally set it up, I now believe that something similar to this may well have been the actual set up during filming. Obviously, there would have been a more complex set up than mine to allow for independent control of each triangle, and to match Mark Hamill's performance. I think there's at least a very strong possibility that wires were fed around the back of the prop, or up Hamill's sleeve (as they were on previous occasions).
**Just a note on my reveal board for anyone thinking I've been holding back on a better version...
The 3D printed part that I have on my microprocessor was a gift that was kindly sent to me by someone who chose to upgrade their board. This isn't something that I was able to include on the standard boards unfortunately.
Awesome, Drew! Love seeing all three together
I absolutely love your solution!!! Thats so clean and simple and youre right, the hole is just perfect for the wires
Got me thinking quite a bit. How do you search for tiny hobby wire like that and avoid the wire that technically is a bunch of wires inside? I was on digikey and had trouble narrowing wire down.
Im posting soon, i made my first today and everything is too thick
Got me thinking quite a bit. How do you search for tiny hobby wire like that and avoid the wire that technically is a bunch of wires inside? I was on digikey and had trouble narrowing wire down.
Im posting soon, i made my first today and everything is too thick
Thanks Tom. I saw yours on Instagram and it looks like it works a treat. Sorry it didn't quite fit. I had the same problem fitting everything in too. I think it's awesome that people have actually managed to get it working the way that it appears to work on screen, and fit it all in such a small space too. It's incredible. I'm just not convinced it would have been practical to try and do that at the time of filming? Especially now, having set something up with the wires coming out of the box. It's just just so much easier.
My actual setup is really very simple (lazy!
) But I guess you could replicate the setup used on screen, but with the switches outside of the box. If that really is how it was.For mine, I just connected the flashing LEDs together + to + and - to - (I isolated each side to prevent it from shorting).
As for the wires, the ones I'm using came with the battery holder I'm afraid, so I'm not entirely sure what guage it is to be honest. The wire I use on the actual boards is packaging wire, so I'm not sure it's suitable for electrical wiring.
harrisonp
Sr Member
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oh I realize now you meant solid vs stranded wire
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