Yet another HIC or, "Throw another Han on the fire".

Discussion in 'Star Wars Costumes and Props' started by Triton, Sep 5, 2015.

  1. Triton

    Triton Well-Known Member

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    Been putting this off for way too long, so I figured starting a thread would hold me to some level of accountability. I mean, I can't just leave all you guys hanging after all...right? RIGHT?

    So my budget is INCREDIBLY limited. I've got Kingjawas Han...and that's it. So the rest of this build is going to be scratch built.
    That being said, I would have LOVED to get zenix box kit like so many of you get to use, but I couldn't swing it.
    Here's a bit of full disclosure. I've been sitting on this build for a LONG time...because the plans with all their odd angles, etc stressed me out.

    I decided to grip it and rip it. So on with the show.

    First up, the box. More importantly, the cutouts. The goal here is to get accuracy...and repeat-a-bility. That's not a word, big whoop, wanna fight about it?

    So I grabbed a piece of 1/4" MDF and got to sketching. After some time on the table saw, and 12" disc sander I've got this.


    0905151216.jpg

    That's to the exact specs of the HIC blue prints for the cutout. I want to use this as a template, so now I have to factor in my pattern bit. I suppose I could have done it to begin with, but I tried...and no matter what I did, it wasn't right. I hate math. Sue me. So I measured the size on the pattern bit from blade to blade with a set of calipers, set my compass, and traced the outside edge marking the distance.

    Bandsaw, table saw, and disc sander again...and I ended up with this:

    0905151318.jpg

    Drill a couple holes to allow my pattern bit access to the template, and secured the reduced template to another 1/4" sheet of MDF with double sided tape.
    Ran it through the router table, and I'm left with this:

    0905151334.jpg

    Cut the inside out, did a little touch up, and voila!

    0905151842.jpg

    I'll use this on the long sides of the HIC box using the same process. Double sided stick tape and a pattern bit on the router table. This will let me get perfect cuts, and do so quickly. I'm going to get the wood for the box tomorrow, so there should be more to show tomorrow night.

    Get an additional $100 off your Glowforge Laser Cutter purchase with this URL: glowforge.com/referred/?kid=FrvUGs
    Offer good until 10/24/2015!

    0905151216.jpg

    0905151216.jpg

    0905151318.jpg

    0905151334.jpg

    0905151842.jpg
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
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  2. Triton

    Triton Well-Known Member

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    So I didn't get nearly as far along as I'd hoped. I still had the templates to make for the top and bottom ends, so I didn't get to finish them. I did however cut them to length and angle, and radius etc.

    Here's the side panels:

    0906151232.jpg

    Marked up one side so I knew where I was putting the template.

    0906151249.jpg

    Cut out the majority of the waste with the jigsaw.

    0906151304.jpg

    Here's what the template looks like on the router table. The template is screwed on to the work piece, because the pine is too slick, and the double sided tape would slide around.

    0906151325.jpg

    Routing complete on one ladder. I'll use this as the template to make the matching one. Same process as before. I line it all up, clamp it down, set my screws...then route.

    0906151451.jpg

    Here are the two ladders complete, with the ends cut, but not yet routed. I ran out of time, but hope to have the box complete tomorrow...maybe.

    Some may be wondering why I chose pine for the box. Besides being light, and cheap, pine has one feature MDF or plywood just doesn't have. It's soft.
    For routing, it makes it a snap. Beyond that, its softness will allow me to weather it easily, creating realistic wear and tear ( which I will go over ). Once I'm satisfied with the level of distressing, I'll use wood hardener to toughen it all up.
     
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  3. Triton

    Triton Well-Known Member

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    Update from last night. Got the top and bottom pieces completely routed.
    Ran out of time, but hope to get the box put together tonight!

    0908150630.jpg
     
  4. Lichtbringer

    Lichtbringer Sr Member

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    Everyone just seems to buy and use premade boxes, how boring.

    Your way is much more interesting. :)
     
  5. Triton

    Triton Well-Known Member

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    Thanks! Was beginning to think I was wasting my time posting! LOL
     
  6. mugatu

    mugatu Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I like that you have chosen to go with pine. Don't really hear much in the way of materials
    used for the box besides MDF. I like your approach.
     
  7. Triton

    Triton Well-Known Member

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    Thanks! Total invested in the box from my local Lowes/Home Depot is $69 in lumber.

    I went with 1 x 10 x 8's for the box frame. They come in dimensionally at 3/4" x 9.25" ( which is exact spec for the box ). This was a lucky happenstance, and just meant I didn't have to spend more money on the 1 x 12's and rip them on the table saw, keeping my build nice and cheap.
     
  8. Triton

    Triton Well-Known Member

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    Finished the box!

    Everything is level, square, and to the mm of the original prop.

    So stoked.

    Here's a pic of Han resting on top. I still need to trim up Kingjawas casting, a lot of over expanded foam before I can mount him. Likely won't get that done til the weekend.

    0909152052a.jpg
     
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  9. SofaKing01

    SofaKing01 Master Member

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    Excellent update. Pics! We like Pics! Lots and Lots of Pics! :)
     
  10. Triton

    Triton Well-Known Member

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    Sorry for the lack of updates, I've been working on it, just slowly over the past week.
    Not much to really update that hasn't been gone over a million times. I used locktite adhesive to the back of the cast, and used
    one inch sheetrock screws to attach to the backer board. Once that was done I used milliput on all the seams, the depressions around the screws and the
    screws themselves. I also took this time to build up the left hand with the milliput where the fingers pull out from the carbonite. They still need refining, but the general
    blocking out is complete.

    Last night I flooded the cast with Titebond 2, making sure to push it to the edges with a drywall scraper.
    I decided on titebond 2 at this stage for one reason. Air quality. I DO intend to do a skim coat of bondo over the top to create the carbonite effect, but I didn't want to use
    a ton of it to fill the cast. That would take way too long, and I really don't want to leave my shop open for days to air that all out.

    As it is now, I have the hic in a temperature controlled shop, and the humidity is below 45%, so the titebond 2 should only take a couple days at max to cure.
    I poured it last night, and as of this morning, all the corners had already cured, and a thick skin has formed on the remaining piece.

    Here's a pic!

    hic.jpg
     
  11. Triton

    Triton Well-Known Member

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    0927151722.jpg 0927151722b.jpg

    Here's a couple more progress pics.
    Wanted to get everything one color so I can visually see what's going on. Looks great so far. Still a bit in the way of cleanup in areas, but I'm pleased with the flow and look of the carbonite. I took reference photos and made the lines with titebond 2.

    So far so good!
     
  12. halliwax

    halliwax Legendary Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    i like how u built your own box! i comment on all the HIC builds because i want to do one so bad, i just have WAY too many projects going on right now. everytime i see a HIC thread i get all giddy!

    what do you plan on doing for panels?! now that have you done it, would you use titebond again with bondo? would you do anything different texture wise? really nice job on the wood work!
     
  13. Triton

    Triton Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Halliwax! I purchased one panel for a hero panel from bigturc. I was in the process of 3D modeling an accurate panel, but was never happy with the dimensions. Now that I have a REAL Volvo panel, I'm going to try to use that for the measurements and get that done. When, I have no idea. Like you, and probably everyone else on this forum, have a MILLION projects is various states of completion that I need to get to first. LOL Maybe my wife will take pity on my soul once it's done and see that it needs the other 7 panels to look right, and let me order them. HAHA!

    As for the titebond and bondo, there were no issues using the two together. Obviously, just make sure each has dried prior to using the other around or on top of.
    Titebond 2 in my experience from woodcraft and this project has a VERY low amount of shrinkage ( re: not a visible amount ). As far as the texture is concerned...I loved the way it looked dried with no primer on it. Once I put the primer on, I'll be honest, I was extremely concerned as it seemed to disappear. Until I stood the entire thing up in the light. Then it all popped. So...I suspect once I get the top coat on, and apply shadowing and highlights, it's going to look pretty close to the original.

    Here's the thing...I didn't use a pre-made box. This allowed for a couple things. A) A more accurate box, and B) it allowed me to create a frame that sits approx. 1/8" proud of the face of the box. So unlike others that cursed the wood glue, and how long it took to cure etc...I didn't have any of those problems. They were trying to fill a near 1/2" depression in their box from the face to the top of the frame. I was able to fill it in one go, and doing it in a climate controlled shop the glue was literally dry the next day. I can't imagine tackling this project where you fill the ENTIRE face with Bondo. If I were in need of doing that, I certainly would have used Rondo instead. ( Combination of Resin and Bondo )

    There are multiple different textures to the carbonite. From about Hans knees up, the majority of the texture is that of a liquid metal pooling. From the knee down it looks more flat, and random. This is where I'll go back in with some bondo and a scraper and just applying thin cross-hatch patterns of bondo, and sand smooth. This will create those thin ridges in the carbonite.

    Hope this was all helpful in some way!
     
  14. halliwax

    halliwax Legendary Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    thank you for going into such detail. i really love these builds. im going to watch with great interest! best of luck your doing a great job!!
     
  15. Triton

    Triton Well-Known Member

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    Thank You very much! It's great getting feedback, really pushes the build along!


    Get an additional $100 off your Glowforge Laser Cutter purchase with this URL: glowforge.com/referred/?kid=FrvUGs
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
  16. Triton

    Triton Well-Known Member

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    Hey guys...so I'm closing in on the end game here. Haven't been working on it nearly as much as I'd like. There's so much to do to get everything ready for paint.

    With that said. I'm wondering what paint to use. I read in another article that the correct paint color was Rustoleum "Satin Nickle". However when I tried it on a test portion of the HIC box last night, it just looked like silver with sparkles in it...REAL poor. Not metal like at all.

    Can someone point me in the right direction for paint?



    Get an additional $100 off your Glowforge Laser Cutter purchase with this URL: glowforge.com/referred/?kid=FrvUGs
     
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2015
  17. Triton

    Triton Well-Known Member

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    Anyone at all?
     
  18. _Lee_

    _Lee_ Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Looking good bro :) i think it is going to be sweet when finished.

    Ive just started my budget HIC and take inspiration from this thread. Im scratch building mine, including the panels. So far ive spent £20 and made the whole box :)

    I think some of the veterans here might be sick of seeing HIC threads ;) im loving the threads though.

    Keep it up :)
     

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