Yet another Blade Runner PKD!

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tennantlim

Well-Known Member
Greetings fellow builders! I hope everyone is doing well amidst the COVID-19 conditions in your respective regions. Personally, I'm grateful to be residing in my home country Singapore where the situation is efficiently contained. Aside from abiding to regulations that require us to wear masks, follow contact tracing procedures and being subjected to travel restrictions, life has been slowly resuming to varying levels of normalcy albeit with reasonable adjustments.

Anyway, back to the subject at hand. Having built two PKD blasters in my custom Stealth Edition style, I feel like I've gathered sufficient knowledge and confidence to embark on a build of the prop in its canonical aesthetics. Ambitious. I know! In addition to inhaling the magnificent World Con photos by Karl T for references and inspiration, the various videos by asavage 's Tested that cover the PKD blaster in tremendous detail have been on regular replay. There is so much information about this prop to stitch together and I'm just grateful for those who readily share them for the collective good.

My build will be based on the 'as-issued' prop before it rusted to hell. Since it's impossible to lawfully acquire a Tomenosuke nor any metal kit here, I will once again look to Anders' 3D model that, in my humble opinion, is the best model out there. It is a fantastic base kit upon which one could add details and modifications to bring it ever so closer to accuracy. Coupled with the super clean resin prints produced by The Imperial Factory (they use industrial grade printers that are capable of producing large prints), I would wager I'm off to a decent start.

And so it begins...again...
I spent a considerable amount of time identifying areas on the Charter Arms Bulldog components that could be improved upon and that are absent in Anders' design.

HAMMER
A friend whipped up a 3D model of the hammer based on good profile images I found online. It wasn't too hard to figure out the dimensions and I think he absolutely nailed it. It's a shame most of the hammer will be obscured when it's installed.
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I estimated the pivot point, drilled a hole and cut a steel rod for the pin.
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The hammer was then cut to clear the Steyr receiver as was done on the real prop.
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MAIN SPRING ASSEMBLY
The team that prints my resin kits was able to modify the grip frame to fit the mainspring seat.
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I acquired a set of genuine Charter Arms Bulldog main spring, rod and seat that fit perfectly within the space.
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Here's the complete assembly attached to the hammer in a preliminary test fit. Disclaimer: these are purely for aesthetics and will not actually function in tandem with the trigger and cylinder.
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CYLINDER STUD HOLE
I noticed a hole immediately behind the main trigger pin in reference photos and learned that it was to house a cylinder stud.
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This was easily replicated on the resin print.
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CONNECTING TUBE
I found a steel tube that fits over the 3D printed part perfectly and the larger diameter actually looked even closer to the dimensions in the reference photos. I assure you it'll make sense when it's installed later.
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The final piece of upgrade on the Bulldog is currently en route to me so more on that when it arrives.
 
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tennantlim

Well-Known Member
3rd PARTY UPGRADES
These are various parts that I collected over the past 2 years and that will be integrated to replace the printed ones. I'll add links wherever possible. Yup it certainly took a village.

Steyr magazine housing plastic cast from Adam Miller. I actually got this from a limited run on Facebook two years ago! These are his photos of the raw cast. Mine however arrived riddled with bubble pits so I've had to clean them up.
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To replicate the dual screw details on the left side (I suspect they hold the magazine in place?), I eyeballed the locations and drilled 2 holes, installed an aluminium tube into the left hole, and tapped the right hole for a grub screw.
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Steel barrel from Theodore Gerakaris aka Teddz. Disclaimer: the Steyr receiver in this photo is only a test piece.
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Genuine EE-8 binding post from Michael aka Jedisushi
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Weaver scope knob pewter cast from Tip Top Workshop
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Steyr safety catch resin cast from Tip Top Workshop
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Aluminium side/sight rod from Samuel Cheeseman on Etsy
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Pewter grip base from Richard Coyle. This required considerable elbow grease to clean up, but the result and the additional weight it provided were immensely satisfying!
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Test fit on the grip assembly.
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LED kit from David Deason aka djdrthq
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tennantlim

Well-Known Member
Onwards with the build! Progress will be slow from here on out as I chip away the paint and assembly between work days.

GRIPS
I had purchased a set of clear amber resin grips from djdrthq and they were absolutely beautiful! Unfortunately I made the grave mistake of spraying Krylon clear gloss and completely ruined them. It almost looks like the Krylon ate into the resin and melted it. I don't really understand why this is happening, but I'm moving on to plan B. I sprayed Tamiya clear orange and gloss clear on the default clear grips that came with my resin kit. Then they were weathered with raw sienna+ white oils to simulate polish residues that had settled in the recesses.
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GRIP BASE
The bottom of the Coyle grip base was painted with flat black primer, scuffed with steel wool, scraped with pointy objects, and given a light black oil wash.
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BULLDOG GRIP FRAME
This was painted flat black and had silver rub n buff applied along the edges.
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OUTER GRIP
Alclad gloss black primer and silver rub n buff on the bottom ends.
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CYLINDER COVER + SIDE ROD
I carved a channel for the white wire to run through as seen in the reference photos. I then attached the side rod to the cover via two 2mm pins and superglue. Finally it got a nice coat of gloss black and got scuffed up with steel wool.
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RIGHT COVER + BINDING POST
These got a coat of gloss black and were distressed with steel wool.
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The remaining parts, aside from the Steyr receiver, were painted in Alclad gloss black, stainless steel and Aqua gloss. They will be furthered treated to achieve the seasoned steel finish.
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tennantlim

Well-Known Member
Love your build...looking good so far and I like the fact that you're naming all the people who manufactured the different components of that gun(y)(y)
Thank you. I remember getting started in this hobby and read build threads that were vague on origins of kits and components. It has since been my mission to share my knowledge so others like myself may benefit from these posts.
 

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Jedisushi

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
This looks so great! You've found some awesome details and upgrades that most folks don't pursue. Congrats.

In case anyone reading this now is curious:
  1. When I assembled my own "Worldcon" PKD, I was actually able to buy a genuine magwell directly from Steyr in Alabama (USA). Because it's a simple plastic part it wasn't expensive at all.
  2. I still have some binding posts for sale here: Genuine vintage binding posts
Cheers!
 

tennantlim

Well-Known Member
Beautiful build! Thanks for taking the time to share it with us! Look forward to seeing more!

Sean

Thanks Sean!

This looks so great! You've found some awesome details and upgrades that most folks don't pursue. Congrats.

In case anyone reading this now is curious:
  1. When I assembled my own "Worldcon" PKD, I was actually able to buy a genuine magwell directly from Steyr in Alabama (USA). Because it's a simple plastic part it wasn't expensive at all.
  2. I still have some binding posts for sale here: Genuine vintage binding posts
Cheers!

And I'm sure I'm still missing details that some RPFers are probably screaming at me for through the screen/monitor! Appreciate your kind words Michael. Hope you've been well.
 

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tennantlim

Well-Known Member
You know the saying "Take one step forward, stumble two steps back" (or something like that)? I decided this evening I did not like the irregular finishing on the right cover so I stripped it and sanded it over again.
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On the bright side, I am super happy with the weathering on the Weaver scope knob.
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The pewter cast was primed, painted gunmetal, lightly scuffed with steel wool to reveal the pewter around the edges, airbrushed heavily thinned water-based dark rust acrylic, and dabbed with a damp rag.
 

tennantlim

Well-Known Member
Can a dear soul show me how the channel on the front trigger look like from the top side? I want to know if it's feasible for me to replicate it on my 3D print.
 

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djdrthq

New Member
Looking amazing!

Terrible news about the grips, not sure what is in the Krylon gloss but it must be strong! I've stripped gloss of the same resin with acetone and it didn't touch the plastic.

I guess I'll send you another set for christmas then. :D
 

tennantlim

Well-Known Member
Looking amazing!

Terrible news about the grips, not sure what is in the Krylon gloss but it must be strong! I've stripped gloss of the same resin with acetone and it didn't touch the plastic.

I guess I'll send you another set for christmas then. :D

Hey no worries at all David! I've got a pair of back up grips now. But I do feel awful about ruining your nice work :(
 

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tennantlim

Well-Known Member
I could only find chrome screws at the local hardware store, so I 'blued' them. Or more precisely, cooked them with a butane burner until they turned a lovely purple, hit them with flat black, and finished with graphite powder.
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Repainted the right cover and installed greeblies.
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Applied pigment on the magazine housing between the grub screws as seen in World Con photos.
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The 3D printed Steyr receiver is still very much a WIP as I work on the faux steel patina.
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The assembly thus far. Coyle's metal grip base certainly gives it a nice heft!
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