Yes, another Diamond Select TOS phaser toy-to-prop-replica conversion.

[Leinads]

After studying my wonderful Wand phaser carefully I realized that while it makes great sounds & lights, it's still just a high end toy, not a real prop replica.
So I went to town on my Diamond Select phaser, with metal parts by Jon Paul in Sarasota.
There is not a CM of this thing I didn't re-work in one way or another. Starting with the P1- it had to be re-shaped (slimmed by 1mm on each side towards the back) & the rear end extended by 2mm. Cradle back end opened up by almost 2mm. Cradle ribs taken down quite a bit. Side ribs removed (replacing them is my final construction step- just waiting on the styrene half rounds in the mail). Sharp edges sanded all around. Window above emitter expanded. Trigger moved to more correct angle. Ribs under ten-turn replaced. Top of Jon Paul's bezel sanded off & replaced by faux ruby. Made the front so the metal nozzle just plugs in so I don't have to
mask it for painting. Filled the body with plasticine clay so it doesn't feel 'front-heavy' with the metal nozzle. I cut into the tail fin well so the tail fins could be recessed a mm or so more deeply. And yes, a touch of OCD helps my builds.
Here are pictures of my build in progress, but basically, the colours of my Wand phaser were what put me off the most. Handle is fine, but body & P1 are both too dark.
So I just gotta make my own...
Next pics will be final side ribs & painting. Wish me luck- nothing is guaranteed....
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The added extension is huge and with the side work, this is almost a dead ringer on the original dimensions. Love it

 

[Chrisisall]

Yes, when I built the HMS/Rodd.com kit (which the DST/AA toy is based upon), some years ago, I made a few mods to accurize it a bit, including shortening the handle.

It's still an excellent replica, as-is, and accurate for a "Trials & Tribble-ations" build, but a few tweaks are needed if one is aiming for a TOS look.

Handle shortening is done.
I built up the raised bits to meet the upper grip, sawed a little over 1/8" off the bottom, got the end plate from my usual guy Jon Paul & trimmed it (it's meant for the bottom of the endcap as is- but I sanded it to be more flush with the handle), and glued the whole thing together & on. Can't paint today as it thunderstorming. Left the screws out 'cause I want 'em brass; Ill add them in once it's painted.

 

[Gregatron]

Lovely.

Despite having built an HMS and a full hero and owning the Wand remote, I still often have the urge to do an AA/DST rebuild. Maybe even as a season 1 black-and-white, which is a version I don't have. Just variations on the Wah Chang reworking of the design.

 

[Chrisisall]

Lovely.

Despite having built an HMS and a full hero and owning the Wand remote, I still often have the urge to do an AA/DST rebuild. Maybe even as a season 1 black-and-white, which is a version I don't have. Just variations on the Wah Chang reworking of the design.

Got pictures? Love to see them (not the Wand though, we all have one).

 

[Leinads]

The handle looks sweet - nice trim job too! Can’t wait to see how your paint turns out after the storm.

 

[Chrisisall]

The handle looks sweet - nice trim job too! Can’t wait to see how your paint turns out after the storm.

Sanding brass or aluminum is irritating... gotta not get the metal dust into your nose. Gotta be real low to the ground. Painting is the easy part. I can't believe I didn't pay enough attention to the handle before now. I blame myself.

 

[Leinads]

Well it’s paid off and it shows

 

[Gregatron]

Got pictures? Love to see them (not the Wand though, we all have one).

When I get a chance, tonight.

 

[Gregatron]

As promised.

From left to right:

Stock Art Asylum toy, modified HMS/Rodd.com kit, full hero build (modded John Long P1, Sporak P2 body, various random parts for the rest), and, for funzies, my Brad Nelson/PHASE II kit build.

 

[Leinads]

Got pictures? Love to see them (not the Wand though, we all have

As promised.

From left to right:

Stock Art Asylum toy, modified HMS/Rodd.com kit, full hero build (modded John Long P1, Sporak P2 body, various random parts for the rest), and, for funzies, my Brad Nelson/PHASE II kit build.


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As promised.

From left to right:

Stock Art Asylum toy, modified HMS/Rodd.com kit, full hero build (modded John Long P1, Sporak P2 body, various random parts for the rest), and, for funzies, my Brad Nelson/PHASE II kit build.


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That line-up is a thing of beauty and makes my eyes rain

 

[Chrisisall]

As promised.

From left to right:

Stock Art Asylum toy, modified HMS/Rodd.com kit, full hero build (modded John Long P1, Sporak P2 body, various random parts for the rest), and, for funzies, my Brad Nelson/PHASE II kit build.


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#2 (The HMS) stuns me.

 

[Leinads]

Gonna be a tough call after your new build. I see a pattern here

 

[Gregatron]

#2 (The HMS) stuns me.

Thanks!

I just kinda wish I had another one, because I could do it SO much better, now. That was one of my first prop builds, and includes the Rodd.com electronics.

 

[Leinads]

Which one has the best balance and grip-feel? “Mr. Business”

 

[Gregatron]

Which one has the best balance and grip-feel? “Mr. Business”

Well, the Art Asylum toy feels like the lightweight plastic toy that it is. The HMS is resin, and has some good heft. The hero build has the full assembly of working parts and batteries and whatnot, and probably handles the most like how a phaser “should”. And the Brad Nelson/PHASE II, which is also resin (although I replaced the grip with a custom one that I built from aluminum tubes joined together, like the originals), is probably the most comfortable/ergonomic and satisfying to hold.

Overall, the hero build is the awesomest, with the Nelson not too far behind. I’ve noted in the past that, when modding AA/DST toys, people tends to add weights to the interior, to give their phasers more heft.


Also, there’s nothing more satisfying than the working hero features—detaching the P1 and twist-lock handle, raising the P1 sight, pressing the P2 trigger and lighting up the grain-of-rice bulb, etc. Same with the PHASE II, albeit on a smaller scale (Velcro for the handle and P1, the clicking of the P1 thumbwheel and P2 tenturn, etc.).

 

[Leinads]

I’ve never held a Brad Nelson of any kind and it’s interesting how it handles vs your Hero. Thanks for the kind review.

 

[Chrisisall]

Thanks!

I just kinda wish I had another one, because I could do it SO much better, now. That was one of my first prop builds, and includes the Rodd.com electronics.

How? I see nothing wrong here, mate.

 

[Gregatron]

How? I see nothing wrong here, mate.

Just little things, like the finish of the metal and paint, etc. Cleaner, neater.

 

[Chrisisall]

Just little things, like the finish of the metal and paint, etc. Cleaner, neater.

On a Facebook modeling page I got a guy from the UK saying we're all too fussy, and that the actual hero props were painted by hand with brushes. He says we make them look like idealized versions... which certainly made me feel better about mine! LOL I'm happy with the little imperfections; I even painted the screws for the bottom plate half-assed to give them that slightly worn look (Pictures tomorrow after it all dries).

 

[Gregatron]

As I pointed out in the auction thread, last year, the sloppy (re)paintjob on the Jein hero doesn't match screencaps, which indicate that the heroes actually looked pretty clean, at least initially.

Of course, many scammers have sloppily painted their forgeries to try and get that "authentic" look. But the TOS props look very clean, onscreen.