Y-Wing Build (DaveG Open Source)

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Active Member
Hello Everyone,

I received a massive batch of Y-Wing nurnies from Studio Kitbash and WOW! It's a potent dose of Y-Wing nurnie wizardry. Studio Kitbash sent hundreds of individual parts and many full assemblies. The level of awesome is hard to express. Combining DaveG's armature parts with Studio Kitbash's nurnies makes me feel like I'm an ILM modeler working on New Hope! Part quality is top-notch. Here are some pics:






I also received the engine nurnies from Masterpiece Models. Great parts as well. These will make the engine detailing go much faster:


Finally, I needed a storage/sorting mechanism for all the parts. I decided to sort by each part's final position on the armature (roughly). I printed DaveGs ortho pdfs 1:1, glued them to a piece of foam board, then sliced and diced a few separating pieces. After ~45m I ended up with this:


Now, the puzzle piece sorting begins!


Work and life has slowed my overall progress on the build. At least with this done, I can spend a few late evenings getting hundreds of nurnies sorted out.

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Sr Member
I too just ordered the nurnie kit from Studio Kitbash, looking forward to receiving it!

It appears to be amazing quality castings!


Sr Member
I wish Studio Kitbash nurnie set was around when I started collecting parts. Spent a lot of money already and I still need parts, crap it

Studio Kitbash

Well-Known Member
If you're building a Scratchbuilt Y-Wing -- which really is the "most fun' way to do it, in my opinion, in terms of "reliving" the excitement of being an ILM modeler -- then the following kits are recommended to get in Original model kit form to kitbash from, rather than cast greeblies form, simply because the level of detail is higher, and in many cases, some of the super fiddly-bits are simply not moldable in any reliable form:

1.) Airfix Saturn V in 1/144 scale -- x 2
2.) Tamiya 1/35 Panzerspahwagen 8rad - only one, so you have the canisters and the spindle/arms pieces for the front/side walls depending on version of Y-Wing you are building, and so you can "see" the beauty of the original neck sidewall source code.
3.) L'eggs Pantyhose containers -- b/c acquiring these, then taking the plunge and cutting them back is terrifying, difficult, and requires a very steady hand or set of very expensive tools (and a steady hand to operate).
4.) 1/9 Kettenkrad -- b/c track links don't mold well, and you get a bunch of other greeblies to boot, and it's back on the market in a repop.
5.) Airfix 1/24 Hurricane - b/c of lots of small detailed parts that are moldable, but not "great", and b/c these are very visual top-side dressings that are cool to brag about, as in "those are original greeblies and not castings."
6.) Airfix/MPC 1/24 Me-109, b/c having original top turret guns, modified with turned metal barrels, can't be beat.
7.) Nichimo 1/35 Jagdtiger -- This last one is controversial, and if you want to use a decent substitute, you can always use Tamiya's Hunting Tiger or King Tiger, but this is a piece that gets a lot of attention, and building up the back plate (with castings or originals) is always a lot of fun and allows you to "get inside" the mind of Dave Beasley and other ILMers as much or more as the fuselage bulkhead plate does.
8.) I do NOT recommend acquiring/using the 13 or so original kits to build the fuselage bulkhead plate b/c a.) that was never seen on screen, b.) that will never get seen on your model, and c.) if you go that route, for the sake of being a "purist" then you are ALREADY too far gone down the rabbit hole for reason or any other force to pull you back -- this is what happened to me, and it could happen to you, so be forewarned. And try to remember that the Y-Wing only ever saw (in all forms) three minutes and forty-one seconds of screen time in the original Star Wars (by my count), and so your attention to the detail of the fuselage bulkhead plate is going to be appreciated by EXACTLY one person, and that is not even your mom. It's you.


Sr Member
I have about 20 complete LEggs pantyhose containers available for Y-wing builders.
4 are required per Y-wing.

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Active Member
Hi Everyone,

I updated 2 parts to accommodate dtssyst's more accurate dimensions (details in his post in thread Red Jammer Y-Wing Build by dtssyst (DaveG open source):

1. Main Fuselage Mid Starboard/Port Section (.stl) - added 5mm to the length
2. Updated Center Spar V2 (3/4" aluminum channel) - added length and moved fuselage mounting holes

I had to move the Forward Fuselage up a few mm to accommodate the new length of the Main Fuselage Mid Starboard/Port Section. This was easier than modifying the sections on the backend.

The fuselage is now 278.34mm long:

These .stl's are 5mm longer:

DM me if you'd like the updated stl files. I'm attaching the updated Updated Center Spar drawing here.



Active Member
Happy Sunday,

I completed the fuselage reprints and CNC'd Tee Plate v2. I printed the parts updated for FDM printers. No supports required and they print quite a bit faster (disclaimer: your results may differ, just like our print profiles). ;) A bit of cleanup and fast placement has me back to where I left off. Was the reprinting time worth it? I think so. The nurnies will fit without armature modification. The overall fuselage is beefier, too. I like the extra girth. Many thanks to Dtssyst and Studio Kitbash for the reverse engineering and dimension updates!

I offer you obligatory pics:







Sr Member
Great looking build! Although technically if you want to "feel like an old ILM model maker", you should be calling them greeblies instead of nurnies.
Nurnies is a perfectly legitimate name for the detail bits, but is more of a southern California term. ILM always called them greeblies.

Here's to hair splitting!

Can't wait to see more progress.


Active Member
Duncanator and thegnome, thank you! Duncanator - I've witnessed the geeblies/nurnies etymology discussion in other threads. Thankfully, the etumología of both words engenders a shared nostalgia of modeling legends never forgotten. This post happens to be focused on improving our engine greeblies so that affixing is easier!

I like the utility gained from 3d printing. I also appreciate seeing different techniques and solutions to common problems. I'm sharing something I came up with and hope you find it useful.

Now that the reprints are complete, I'm finishing the armature so that the greeburnies application can start. If you recall from earlier posts, I modeled and 3d printed the Saturn V rocket shells. Essentially, they are glued in the same configuration as the Saturn V kit parts, just 3d printed instead of scavenged. I was bugged by the seam lines though. I knew the seams would be covered more or less by the kit bashed parts but still wanted to eliminate them.

Since I have 3d models for all the things, I designed some simple sanding tools for eliminating the Saturn V seams and resurfacing the engine parts to get a better surface fit. Best explained in pics:

The engine greeblies have flash to cleanup. The mating surfaces are also rather lumpy. Must resolve.


I printed a sanding block that matches the Nacelle diameter and inner curve of the engine greeblies. Sandpaper wraps around the base and locks into a vice. I can now sand the back of the greeblies to match the Nacelle curvature, It also thins out the flash for easier removal.



Engine greeblies after sanding and a little filing:


Similar tactic on the Nacelle seam. Printed a concave sanding block, used a little filler, and erased the seams! Biggest advantage was maintaining the Nacelle curve, i.e. no flat spots.


Again, maybe you find this a useful solution to a common modeling woe. Now I'm pressing on with this build while I have 1 more day off. :D

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