Y-Wing 1/48 resin model [WIP]

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Nays

New Member
Have you checked your build plate to make sure it's not a little loose? That could be causing the distortion that you saw on the main fuselage.

I also have this model and am planning to print it sometime in the near future. Though ideally I'd like to figure out a way to make it compatible with DaveG's forward fuselage. I prefer the shape of his model over Chris's, even though that's a direct copy of the Bandai model.
 

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skahtul

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Nice, I can't wait to see what you are able to print on the Saturn. I have not even finished my first bottle of resin with my Mars and I have already been looking at a few larger printers :)

Nice work with stitching parts together, I need to look into that software.
 

StevenBills

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Bit of an update today! I did some work on fitting the wings to the fuselage. The right side went first. Just filing and fitting, and filing and fitting, until I broke out the dremel and just made the opening in the fuselage bigger. I gummed up the edge in the process, but that shouldn't be a problem to fix later. And LOTs of friggen dust. So. Much. Dust.

IMG_5530.jpg


IMG_5531.jpg


I ground out a notch out of the back of the wing where it is inserted into the fuselage, so that the wires have some room to bend. You can see in the photo above how it sits flush with the internal wall.



IMG_5533.jpg


IMG_5534.jpg


I have used 24 gauge wire on all of my lit models so far with no problem, but the hole that runs the span of the wing is too small for two wires to fit through, so I ordered some 30 gauge. Hopefully that works.

IMG_5532.jpg


And here's the right wing and nacelle fitted:

IMG_5535.jpg


IMG_5536.jpg

(again, I gummed up the edge where the pieces mate together. I'll fix that later)

This was a big morale booster for me. This project got a little discouraging for me because things just weren't going together how I'd hoped (hence why I stopped working on it for a while). So I was pretty jazzed when this wing all came together!

Rinse and repeat for the left side:

IMG_5539.jpg


IMG_5540.jpg


It's starting to look like a Y-Wing now! :D

Then I thought a bit about how I'm going to power the two engine LEDs. I have a little coin-cell holder, but it's about 1/4" too wide to fit into the back end here, even after dremeling out a lot of the internal structure (AND LOTS OF DUST!):

IMG_5541.jpg


Here's the coin-cell holder I have:

IMG_5542.jpg


It's only an inch wide, but it's still too wide to fit in the back, and I don't want to remove too much material just for structural reasons. So my question is this: is there a smaller way to power (have the model be self-contained) some 3v LEDs? This is pretty small to begin with, but I'm hoping someone here knows a bit more about electronics and wiring than I do.

So that's the update for today! It feels good to be moving along with this one.

Thanks for looking!

SB
 

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Jimw100

Well-Known Member
Bit of an update today! I did some work on fitting the wings to the fuselage. The right side went first. Just filing and fitting, and filing and fitting, until I broke out the dremel and just made the opening in the fuselage bigger. I gummed up the edge in the process, but that shouldn't be a problem to fix later. And LOTs of friggen dust. So. Much. Dust.

View attachment 1410306

View attachment 1410307

I ground out a notch out of the back of the wing where it is inserted into the fuselage, so that the wires have some room to bend. You can see in the photo above how it sits flush with the internal wall.



View attachment 1410309

View attachment 1410313

I have used 24 gauge wire on all of my lit models so far with no problem, but the hole that runs the span of the wing is too small for two wires to fit through, so I ordered some 30 gauge. Hopefully that works.

View attachment 1410308

And here's the right wing and nacelle fitted:

View attachment 1410314

View attachment 1410315
(again, I gummed up the edge where the pieces mate together. I'll fix that later)

This was a big morale booster for me. This project got a little discouraging for me because things just weren't going together how I'd hoped (hence why I stopped working on it for a while). So I was pretty jazzed when this wing all came together!

Rinse and repeat for the left side:

View attachment 1410316

View attachment 1410317

It's starting to look like a Y-Wing now! :D

Then I thought a bit about how I'm going to power the two engine LEDs. I have a little coin-cell holder, but it's about 1/4" too wide to fit into the back end here, even after dremeling out a lot of the internal structure (AND LOTS OF DUST!):

View attachment 1410318

Here's the coin-cell holder I have:

View attachment 1410319

It's only an inch wide, but it's still too wide to fit in the back, and I don't want to remove too much material just for structural reasons. So my question is this: is there a smaller way to power (have the model be self-contained) some 3v LEDs? This is pretty small to begin with, but I'm hoping someone here knows a bit more about electronics and wiring than I do.

So that's the update for today! It feels good to be moving along with this one.

Thanks for looking!

SB
You can get really tiny lithium polymer batteries which will fit, I think I’ve got one that’s about 50 or 100mah which I plan to put in. The rub is that you have to also fit in a charger board, eg adafruit’s micro USB lipo charger. Should be possible to fit both in though. It will probably be easier to pop the back panel off and plug a USB in than change a coin cell battery as well.

Also, a question - did you do any processing of the .stl or use anti-aliasing when you printed the dome ends of the engines? When I printed them they were noticeably ‘faceted’ (not sure what the technical term is). I used tinkercad to stick parts together so not sure if that is why?
 

StevenBills

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
You can get really tiny lithium polymer batteries which will fit, I think I’ve got one that’s about 50 or 100mah which I plan to put in. The rub is that you have to also fit in a charger board, eg adafruit’s micro USB lipo charger. Should be possible to fit both in though. It will probably be easier to pop the back panel off and plug a USB in than change a coin cell battery as well.

Also, a question - did you do any processing of the .stl or use anti-aliasing when you printed the dome ends of the engines? When I printed them they were noticeably ‘faceted’ (not sure what the technical term is). I used tinkercad to stick parts together so not sure if that is why?

Oooooooohhhh I like this idea for the batteries. Do you know which ones you have, by chance? I'll do some research on some. I have absolutely no idea about adafruit things or programming anything. I assume it's just a simple solder job.

And about this 3D model: I have had a few weird experiences with it. I have printed the L'eggs domes in various orientations, and I always get the same bulge around the tip. If you look closely in my photos above, you'll see it there, too. Just something I'll have to work out with sandpaper and files, I guess.

SB
 

Jimw100

Well-Known Member
Yes, if you get the adafruit lipo charger board you just get all your red wires and solder them to the power pin and all your black to the ground. Battery then just plugs in. Obviously you may want to add in an on/off switch. Adafruit Micro-Lipo Charger for LiPo/LiIon Batt w/MicroUSB Jack

The one I have in my electronics box is now out of stock where I got it, but this looks very similar: Verify your identity

I believe a lot of these small batteries are for remote control helicopters or drones, so if you have somewhere local that sells them you could try it.

I agree that you probably don't want your model to set on fire. If you buy a decent quality battery then I would say the risk is pretty low - the decent ones have protection circuits built into the battery. It's a small sample size, but I put lipos in almost all my models and my house hasn't burned down yet. You're quite likely to be carrying around a lipo battery in your pocket about 90% of the time, in your smartphone, after all.
 

StevenBills

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Well, after doing some research last night on LiPo's, I think I'm just going to stick with my CR2032 with on/off switch. I soldered up my two red LEDs with a resistor, and now I just have to carefully remove enough material from the back of the model to fit the holder/switch inside. Thanks for all the comments, though!

Wish me luck!

SB
 

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StevenBills

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Little update time:

The sun was shining today, so to avoid filling my hobby room with resin dust again, I sat outside and dremeled out the back section of the Y. Got it large enough to fit in my trimmed battery holder. Also did some cleanup on the engine sections. The L'eggs cones had a weird bulge in them, so I filed that out. Now I need to fill the hole in the cone that I made so that the resin could drain out.

IMG_5568.jpg


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Next time (if there IS a next time), it would be way easier to hollow out this back section in the computer. It'd save on resin, as well.

I think for tonight's work I am going to get the T-track cut. At 1/48 they come out to 5" long, so that's easy. Then I need to add all of the other greeblies onto the engines before they get glued to the wings and wired up.

Thanks for watching!

SB
 

StevenBills

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Working a little on the LEDs today. The first shot is the bare LED bulb, and the second shot is with a little bit of sanded plastic added in front as some diffusion. Thoughts on this? Which one do you guys like better?

IMG_5576.jpg


IMG_5575.jpg


I like how the bare LED has a white hotspot to it, but I really dislike seeing bare LEDs in model builds. I like how the diffused version hides it all a bit, but it does cut down on the light output somewhat. Thoughts?

SB
 

Jimw100

Well-Known Member
Working a little on the LEDs today. The first shot is the bare LED bulb, and the second shot is with a little bit of sanded plastic added in front as some diffusion. Thoughts on this? Which one do you guys like better?

View attachment 1411564

View attachment 1411565

I like how the bare LED has a white hotspot to it, but I really dislike seeing bare LEDs in model builds. I like how the diffused version hides it all a bit, but it does cut down on the light output somewhat. Thoughts?

SB
I have the same dilemma every time I build a Star Wars model - I like the look with the hot spot, but to some people it does just look like an LED. For what its worth, I usually put a diffuser in - often a transparent piece of plastic with some thin white fabric glued onto it.

I started the final assembly of my own Y-wing yesterday, and almost immediately snapped both of the wings off :( luckily didn't break the wiring inside, but it isn't going to be the cleanest repair job ever. I think the resin has got substantially more brittle since I first started putting it together. Also had real trouble getting the 'neck' piece to fit into the back of the cockpit. If I ever printed this again I would definitely scale down the wings and neck by 1% or so, so that they slide in a bit more easily. I also think I'll need to run some sort of brass angle through the neck piece into the main body, so that it isn't just a flat surface glued onto another flat surface. Otherwise I can definitely see the cockpit just snapping off the first chance it gets.
 

StevenBills

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I have the same dilemma every time I build a Star Wars model - I like the look with the hot spot, but to some people it does just look like an LED. For what its worth, I usually put a diffuser in - often a transparent piece of plastic with some thin white fabric glued onto it.

I started the final assembly of my own Y-wing yesterday, and almost immediately snapped both of the wings off :( luckily didn't break the wiring inside, but it isn't going to be the cleanest repair job ever. I think the resin has got substantially more brittle since I first started putting it together. Also had real trouble getting the 'neck' piece to fit into the back of the cockpit. If I ever printed this again I would definitely scale down the wings and neck by 1% or so, so that they slide in a bit more easily. I also think I'll need to run some sort of brass angle through the neck piece into the main body, so that it isn't just a flat surface glued onto another flat surface. Otherwise I can definitely see the cockpit just snapping off the first chance it gets.

Ah shoot! That sucks! Although printing the wing parts at 1% smaller (even .5% smaller) is a great idea because of the fit issues. The digital model for this model has very tight tolerances, and that doesn't translate well when parts need to slide into and fit next to each other in the real world, especially after possible shrinkage/warping due to any number of factors. And regarding that neck connector piece, I actually printed that part in PLA yesterday, because I don't trust the tensile strength of the resin part.

I actually haven't worked much on the cockpit yet. Gotta get the engine wiring and greeblies all set to go. I am actually cutting some styrene today for the little vane parts that attach to the back of the engine, because the resin parts came out all warped.

SB
 

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Hagoth

Well-Known Member
When it comes to the LED I like the unfiltered light effect but I know what you mean about bare LED's. Might be a way to get both effects. If a very thin filter is concave (or even a truncated cone) then the center portion closest to the LED will be brighter giving you a "filtered" hot spot and the outer edges that curve or slant away will transmit less light but still glow.

When it comes to assembly tolerance I always correct the models I pint by putting a .2mm space between all fit surfaces. Saves a ton of time and the pieces go together pretty much straight off the printer.

I must say thank you for paving the way with this one as it is on my project list and I'm learning valuable tips and tricks as you go along. :) :cool:
 

Jimw100

Well-Known Member
Jeez there are a lot of pipes all over this thing. I’ve started adding them on using a couple of different diameters of brass rod and some stiff wire. Luckily I’m not aiming for complete accuracy, but I’d like it to look pretty close. I’m assuming the Bandai 1/72 is accurate in this regard so I’m using the instructions from that to guide me. So far it’s actually looking a lot less bad than I expected!

also added a few random pipes/wires/guitar strings to the cockpit.

AD3E0801-4132-4BDF-A3F5-2A65634DA05A.jpeg B71B1862-98BF-4B8D-8708-F8D44CA98A4C.jpeg
 

StevenBills

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Jimw100 That's looking awesome! You're ahead of me, that's for sure! I went and got some 1/16" styrene to cutout the vanes on the back of the engine, as my parts warped coming off the printer. I had hopes to cut them out using a laser cutter, but that laser seems to be doing more melting than cutting. Maybe I'll have to do it the old skool way. Or just sand the warped parts flat. Gotta make up my mind!

Yours is looking great though! I am definitely going to be following the Bandai instructions for my piping as well. It's a handy little guide, rather than trying to look through years of studio scale build threads where all the photos are missing...

SB
 

Jimw100

Well-Known Member
Jimw100 That's looking awesome! You're ahead of me, that's for sure! I went and got some 1/16" styrene to cutout the vanes on the back of the engine, as my parts warped coming off the printer. I had hopes to cut them out using a laser cutter, but that laser seems to be doing more melting than cutting. Maybe I'll have to do it the old skool way. Or just sand the warped parts flat. Gotta make up my mind!

Yours is looking great though! I am definitely going to be following the Bandai instructions for my piping as well. It's a handy little guide, rather than trying to look through years of studio scale build threads where all the photos are missing...

SB
Haha, I was kinda worrying about getting the angles right with all the pipes and then last night I had a look through all the reference I could find for the studio models...turns out they weren’t bothered about making it look neat when they made the originals! So the more wonky mine is the better I think!
For the vanes I think I combined the two pieces that form a cross shape when viewed from the rear in tinkercad and printed them as one piece for each side, and they came out pretty good with no real warping. I oriented the parts as shown on the screenshot, straight up and down with the most fragile looking bit furthest from the build plate. 0109E5E7-10E9-4CC0-8AE3-AECE9FA9F1F5.jpeg
 

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