xl97's Iron Man motorized face plate tutorial
- Thread starter xl97
- Start date
In Finland, packages worth less than $20 are not customs processed. Almost everything I have bought from Chinese eBay vendors falls into that category, so I haven't had to declare all that many packages (once last year, because I was foolish and didn't remember the limit). I don't know how it works in Canada, but if you are lucky, they will have a similar system and you can bypass customs by buying items in smaller lots.
Hi xl97,
I think the circuit is working now. I'm working on the Led eye and making the case to hold the power source, promini and other component. I have regular 5mm LED, spread light kind of 5mm LED (like the LED in the night light put on the well) and 3mm regular LED. The benefit for the spread light LED is the size it smaller. it is almost half the length of the regular 5mm LED. Any suggestion which one should I use? I'm doing some test now want to figure out which one has the best result. After that I will do my final testing for the circuit and upload some pics for my product
Thanks
Dio
I think the circuit is working now. I'm working on the Led eye and making the case to hold the power source, promini and other component. I have regular 5mm LED, spread light kind of 5mm LED (like the LED in the night light put on the well) and 3mm regular LED. The benefit for the spread light LED is the size it smaller. it is almost half the length of the regular 5mm LED. Any suggestion which one should I use? I'm doing some test now want to figure out which one has the best result. After that I will do my final testing for the circuit and upload some pics for my product
Thanks
Dio
toxicvenom
Active Member
Hi
well I have the servos and leds working....
been working out how the code does the
different things but cant work out 2 things.
can the speed of the servos be adjusted with code?
also when the face plate opens the leds flash as
the lid has nearly opened, how can I write the flash
fade routine with a delay so the lid opens after the flash
and during the fade in the code.
Update:
I have tried all X197 code and what I get is......
first power up
button press
servos moves as leds blink and fade out....
button press
leds fade on
short delay
servos moves leds stay on
and so on.......
in the code it says the servos close the lid the leds blink and fade on
but I dont seem to get this.... any advice please...
Update..... got it running OK.... was powering the leds from the arduino 3v
pos on the led and using the 3 pin for neg direct ..reversed and all works.. doing it the other way
was altering the flash fade servo order????
well I have the servos and leds working....
been working out how the code does the
different things but cant work out 2 things.
can the speed of the servos be adjusted with code?
also when the face plate opens the leds flash as
the lid has nearly opened, how can I write the flash
fade routine with a delay so the lid opens after the flash
and during the fade in the code.
Update:
I have tried all X197 code and what I get is......
first power up
button press
servos moves as leds blink and fade out....
button press
leds fade on
short delay
servos moves leds stay on
and so on.......
in the code it says the servos close the lid the leds blink and fade on
but I dont seem to get this.... any advice please...
Update..... got it running OK.... was powering the leds from the arduino 3v
pos on the led and using the 3 pin for neg direct ..reversed and all works.. doing it the other way
was altering the flash fade servo order????
Last edited:
Wombler
New Member
Hey everyone, So I've been following and reading all these posts and threads for almost a month now, starting all the way back at 7sinzz thread from 3 years ago....obviously there is a LOT of info and posts between then and now so I'm sure I skipped over something, or stuff just got buried in the massive feeding from the fire-hose!! I am a huge advocate of using the search, etc and usually any questions I had someone else has already covered in one way or another and no one likes seeing the same questions posted over and over! But, I finally had to make an account here so I can start asking my specifics and getting a little more involved!
One of my snags is still on the transistor base resistor values for the eye LEDs...I saw your other post back on Pg.3 where you said in your diagram you are using (5) LEDs with 100ohm resistors which lead to a 220ohm on the base. Okay, cool, that's all the same LED resistors I have in my breadboard proto-type.....BUT, I'm trying to figure out how you ended up with the resistor value of 220 (and then 1k with your 7 LED boards) so if/when my numbers change I can use a different resistor accordingly.
Next post you mentioned using the datasheets and figuring from the V[SUB]CE(sat)[/SUB] and go from there.....well, here still I am :lol. I took a basic electrical engineering class earlier this year and every time we had to refer back to these sheets I would always get overwhelmed pretty fast. I've tried to do my own knowledge seeking around the 'nets for other calculators and how to's but most aren't making much sense to me or can't really be used in this situation.
I'm using a BC547 transistor and the LEDs are 3.2fV 20mA.
Power supply is (4) AA's to the 7805.
Thing is, right now I'm using your blink code with servos with NO resistor on the base from pin 3, switching (10) LEDs each with their own 100ohm resistor from a 7805 regulator....and it's all working fine. had it sitting on for quite a while yesterday with no issues....I understand that the resistor is supposed to protect the current into the base, but since the base is being fed from the Arudino at (what I assume) is a fairly low voltage/current that it's not really at risk anyways? That, or I'm only proving my ignorance to transistors and the Arduino
My other question is on the caps at the 7805. Long ago, Memebr stated using (2) 10uF caps, then changed the Vout cap to a .33uF ceramic, and now on your final diagram you have a .33uF and .1uF.....is there really just a lot of flexibility for cap options to use here? Or are these final, smaller numbers you are running just that much more effective at filtering in this situation over the bigger 10uF caps?
Thanks again for all your work, help and everything else!!
One of my snags is still on the transistor base resistor values for the eye LEDs...I saw your other post back on Pg.3 where you said in your diagram you are using (5) LEDs with 100ohm resistors which lead to a 220ohm on the base. Okay, cool, that's all the same LED resistors I have in my breadboard proto-type.....BUT, I'm trying to figure out how you ended up with the resistor value of 220 (and then 1k with your 7 LED boards) so if/when my numbers change I can use a different resistor accordingly.
Next post you mentioned using the datasheets and figuring from the V[SUB]CE(sat)[/SUB] and go from there.....well, here still I am :lol. I took a basic electrical engineering class earlier this year and every time we had to refer back to these sheets I would always get overwhelmed pretty fast. I've tried to do my own knowledge seeking around the 'nets for other calculators and how to's but most aren't making much sense to me or can't really be used in this situation.
I'm using a BC547 transistor and the LEDs are 3.2fV 20mA.
Power supply is (4) AA's to the 7805.
Thing is, right now I'm using your blink code with servos with NO resistor on the base from pin 3, switching (10) LEDs each with their own 100ohm resistor from a 7805 regulator....and it's all working fine. had it sitting on for quite a while yesterday with no issues....I understand that the resistor is supposed to protect the current into the base, but since the base is being fed from the Arudino at (what I assume) is a fairly low voltage/current that it's not really at risk anyways? That, or I'm only proving my ignorance to transistors and the Arduino
My other question is on the caps at the 7805. Long ago, Memebr stated using (2) 10uF caps, then changed the Vout cap to a .33uF ceramic, and now on your final diagram you have a .33uF and .1uF.....is there really just a lot of flexibility for cap options to use here? Or are these final, smaller numbers you are running just that much more effective at filtering in this situation over the bigger 10uF caps?
Thanks again for all your work, help and everything else!!
xl97
Master Member
if you are referring to the resistor to from the transistor to the arduino pin.. I believe it is there to protect the Arduino pin.
I'd have to go back myself and double check.. but you can also search on the Arduino forum as well (question has been asked by myself and many others!) lol
I also believe the caps used is what is noted in the 7805 datasheet to use.. each regulator will tell you what caps are best to decouple/smooth out the best.
I dont recall what Memebr was using or when it changed? (maybe a different regulator? maybe he just threw something in there to decouple./smooth things out?)
I'd have to go back myself and double check.. but you can also search on the Arduino forum as well (question has been asked by myself and many others!) lol
I also believe the caps used is what is noted in the 7805 datasheet to use.. each regulator will tell you what caps are best to decouple/smooth out the best.
I dont recall what Memebr was using or when it changed? (maybe a different regulator? maybe he just threw something in there to decouple./smooth things out?)
Wombler
New Member
ah, i didn't think about having to protect in the other direction.....I'll look into the Arduino forums...
Memebr's post I was referring to HERE he's using a 7805, BUT you are right about the datasheet! I didn't even think to look there, sure enough the first example on Application Information for a "Fixed-Output Regulator" on the 7800 series is with a 0.33uF and a 0.1uF.....:facepalm:lol
Thanks again, man...all this info and help from you over the last few years has been amazing for me in just the last month!!!
Memebr's post I was referring to HERE he's using a 7805, BUT you are right about the datasheet! I didn't even think to look there, sure enough the first example on Application Information for a "Fixed-Output Regulator" on the 7800 series is with a 0.33uF and a 0.1uF.....:facepalm:lol
Thanks again, man...all this info and help from you over the last few years has been amazing for me in just the last month!!!
xl97
Master Member
no problem.
I just like messing around with the Arduino stuff.. (I'm no pro by any means) haha..
lots of fun things out there to do with them.. and for me.. was/is the only 'microcontroller/embedded electronics' I had ever messed with.
when used to add effects to props, I think it makes the props better. (I mean thats what were going for!)
I'm (re)working on some repulsors next.. (not sure how compact the free/open source thread version will be..but I might be making a custom board/kit if I get the time)
I just like messing around with the Arduino stuff.. (I'm no pro by any means) haha..
lots of fun things out there to do with them.. and for me.. was/is the only 'microcontroller/embedded electronics' I had ever messed with.
when used to add effects to props, I think it makes the props better. (I mean thats what were going for!)
I'm (re)working on some repulsors next.. (not sure how compact the free/open source thread version will be..but I might be making a custom board/kit if I get the time)
Wombler
New Member
Oh man....you aren't kidding. Comparing all the varying replies (480, 1k, 4.3k, 4.7k, just use a MOSFET, etc) with all the other info all over the internet is really not helping me figure this stuff out! Even the guy saying that hfe doesn't really matter here made it even more confusing! My only issue was how much the LEDs started to dim when I put higher resistors on....just playing with random values to see what would happen. I think I want to end up with more than 5 LEDs per eye, like 7-10 maybe, but I don't want to end up with fried components halfway through a Con or the eyes not quite being bright enough in the daylight, ya know? :lol
Funny thing is, (I think) like how you got started on this deal, this isn't even for my suit! It's actually for my neighbor and I've always wanted to start getting into this hobby, but never had any ideas for any projects to get me really started into it. Of course, he has no clue about electronics at all...so he's just 3D printing stuff and throwing it at me saying to "work my magic!" :eek
Funny thing is, (I think) like how you got started on this deal, this isn't even for my suit! It's actually for my neighbor and I've always wanted to start getting into this hobby, but never had any ideas for any projects to get me really started into it. Of course, he has no clue about electronics at all...so he's just 3D printing stuff and throwing it at me saying to "work my magic!" :eek
xl97
Master Member
LOL.. I hear ya!
I have my own thread where I asked the same question(s)..
while still convoluted and lots of 'answers' with varying details. it was a little more to the point.. (about full saturation.. if it matters or not.. and what a 'safe or decent' value to use was)
Either way.. any Arduino stuff you wanna talk about.. post it!..
We'll work through it.
I have my own thread where I asked the same question(s)..
while still convoluted and lots of 'answers' with varying details. it was a little more to the point.. (about full saturation.. if it matters or not.. and what a 'safe or decent' value to use was)
Either way.. any Arduino stuff you wanna talk about.. post it!..
We'll work through it.
Wombler
New Member
I found your old post on the Arduino forums, learned a few more things (i think....). What seems to be the biggest "confusion" factor here is that since we are using these transistors for such a basic task (a light switch, basically) that the resistor value isn't really THAT important. We just kinda need to be in the ball-park. So all these other guys more familiar with more complex circuits and uses for transistors are chiming in with these crazy, over our heads answers!
Since I'm probably going to end up with 7-10 leds, I think I'm just gonna do what you did and throw a 1k in there :lol I'm going to have to get a different transistor anyways, so who knows what'll happen! I did just play around with different resistors blinding myself with the leds and there really didn't seem that much of a noticeable brightness difference between a 470, 680 or 1k.
SO....with that "solved" I have a coding question for you! I've started watching Jeremy Blum's tutorials, but since I have absolutely no background on coding at all, he's moving at a little bit faster pace than I can keep up with, and he seems to kind of expect us to know a little bit as-is. I'm thinking about pausing on his stuff and maybe starting with the Arduino "Getting Started" stuff? what do you suggest?
I have some issues with your coding, and I'd like to figure it out on my own rather than just bug you for a change (plus me just learning anyways)....but I don't know how long it'll take me to get my learning up to this level!
First, the led fade-out before the face-plate moves up is too long, and subsequently the servo command after the fade-out is complete. I want to be able to shorten it, or remove the fade completely. The only way I've managed to accomplish this also removes the fade-on in the blink sequence. The fade-out in your final video looks good, but on mine it seems a bit longer.
Second, when I first turn on the system the servo (only using 1 servo off pin9) moves to its 'neutral' position at about 90. When I do the first button press it then moves the rest of the way to fully closed and the program loop works as intended from then on out. I've tried other servos just to make sure this wasn't something in the servo itself and it seems to be consistent....it's not a big deal, but curious if this is fixable? I'm moving the servo between 0 and 135, so I can't really adjust the pulley wheel and to have 90 be a starting place as this is only a 180* servo (more like 170*)
Since I'm probably going to end up with 7-10 leds, I think I'm just gonna do what you did and throw a 1k in there :lol I'm going to have to get a different transistor anyways, so who knows what'll happen! I did just play around with different resistors blinding myself with the leds and there really didn't seem that much of a noticeable brightness difference between a 470, 680 or 1k.
SO....with that "solved" I have a coding question for you! I've started watching Jeremy Blum's tutorials, but since I have absolutely no background on coding at all, he's moving at a little bit faster pace than I can keep up with, and he seems to kind of expect us to know a little bit as-is. I'm thinking about pausing on his stuff and maybe starting with the Arduino "Getting Started" stuff? what do you suggest?
I have some issues with your coding, and I'd like to figure it out on my own rather than just bug you for a change (plus me just learning anyways)....but I don't know how long it'll take me to get my learning up to this level!
First, the led fade-out before the face-plate moves up is too long, and subsequently the servo command after the fade-out is complete. I want to be able to shorten it, or remove the fade completely. The only way I've managed to accomplish this also removes the fade-on in the blink sequence.
The fade-out in your final video looks good, but on mine it seems a bit longer.Second, when I first turn on the system the servo (only using 1 servo off pin9) moves to its 'neutral' position at about 90. When I do the first button press it then moves the rest of the way to fully closed and the program loop works as intended from then on out. I've tried other servos just to make sure this wasn't something in the servo itself and it seems to be consistent....it's not a big deal, but curious if this is fixable? I'm moving the servo between 0 and 135, so I can't really adjust the pulley wheel and to have 90 be a starting place as this is only a 180* servo (more like 170*)
xl97
Master Member
I suggest,.... there are so many tutorials out there.. find one that covers your topic/task at hand.. .. and that 'teaches' in a way you identify with. (your speed..etc)
Issues with my coding? How so?
Most thing should be updateable with a variable at the top of the code..
(I havent heard of others with this servo issue).
That being said.. it could probably benefit from setting the servo start point (zeroing or centering the servo)..
this along with arm adjustments should be a non-issue.
I'll dig up some code to post for servo zeroing/initial position setting.
I also suggest NOT using the ANY of the extreme degrees as a start/end point.. (ie: no 0 or 180 values in use)..
why? because most servos can not TRULY move that full range..
Issues with my coding? How so?
Most thing should be updateable with a variable at the top of the code..
(I havent heard of others with this servo issue).
That being said.. it could probably benefit from setting the servo start point (zeroing or centering the servo)..
this along with arm adjustments should be a non-issue.
I'll dig up some code to post for servo zeroing/initial position setting.
I also suggest NOT using the ANY of the extreme degrees as a start/end point.. (ie: no 0 or 180 values in use)..
why? because most servos can not TRULY move that full range..
Wombler
New Member
I suppose what I meant was not issues with the coding itself, just implementing it into my set up! Specifically the two points I mentioned.
I figured the first section is where I could edit the blink fade....like, the very first line that says //speed of the eye 'fade'
However...no matter what I set that number to, the fade time never changes. Unless I set it up to something huge like 100 or 500. If I drop it to .1 or even .005 it's still the same fade speed as the default at .5!
I like the default fade in the blink on sequence; but, I want to change just the fade off without affecting a global fade time for all fades...
Thanks for the tip on not using the extreme degrees for the servos....I'd kind of already figured that out anyways just playing with the coding on different unloaded servos and some were already buzzing at anything below 4.
EDIT: got the servo default issue fixed. I just added a myservo.write(xx); after myservo.attach(9); in void setup. 'xx' being the angle you want the face plate to start at
I figured the first section is where I could edit the blink fade....like, the very first line that says //speed of the eye 'fade'
Code:
unsigned long fadeDelay = .5; //speed of the eye 'fade'
unsigned long callDelay = 700; //length to wait to start eye flicker after face plate comes down
unsigned long blinkSpeed = 100; //delay between init blink on/off
unsigned long currentPWM = 0;
boolean isOpen = true;However...no matter what I set that number to, the fade time never changes. Unless I set it up to something huge like 100 or 500. If I drop it to .1 or even .005 it's still the same fade speed as the default at .5!
I like the default fade in the blink on sequence; but, I want to change just the fade off without affecting a global fade time for all fades...
Thanks for the tip on not using the extreme degrees for the servos....I'd kind of already figured that out anyways just playing with the coding on different unloaded servos and some were already buzzing at anything below 4.
EDIT: got the servo default issue fixed. I just added a myservo.write(xx); after myservo.attach(9); in void setup. 'xx' being the angle you want the face plate to start at
Last edited:
xl97
Master Member
correct on the servo stuff..
I had made mention of needing to add it to the code a long time ago (and just never got around to it)..
The code and project itself really is just to show people they 'can' do it themselves... and gives them a 'starter/base' to work from.
it should work 'out of the box' as is.. but can also be customized by those looking to learn/do more.
I'll dig out my old stuff... and set things up again, and get familiar with the code.. (might need an update for new variables/delays..etc)
I'm also not sure how these code posted here, differs from my personal code (my has audio effects, and also plays AC/DC song in background..etc)
See if anything differs much.
I had made mention of needing to add it to the code a long time ago (and just never got around to it)..
The code and project itself really is just to show people they 'can' do it themselves... and gives them a 'starter/base' to work from.
it should work 'out of the box' as is.. but can also be customized by those looking to learn/do more.
I'll dig out my old stuff... and set things up again, and get familiar with the code.. (might need an update for new variables/delays..etc)
I'm also not sure how these code posted here, differs from my personal code (my has audio effects, and also plays AC/DC song in background..etc)
See if anything differs much.
Wombler
New Member
Oh, for sure! Please, don't get me wrong....I am soooo appreciative of the work you've already put into this, and I do feel a little bad for digging up this now years old project of yours! I've learned a ton already and I do plan on trying to figure out my coding changes myself, but I suppose I was secretly hoping it would all be something very simple that I was over-looking at first....which actually the servos turned out to be! Or something where you just pointed me to a specific line or value
Im pretty annoyed now because I forgot the motorized part and arduino and only want to power 3v Led or 12 V led strip but i need 2 AA battery holder or 8 AA battery holder and they dont sell them in america in fact i realized that they pretty much sell nothing in america for electronics and my deadline is july 7th
