X1 tie fighter's choice?

Discussion in 'Studio Scale Models' started by a7818239, Aug 7, 2018.

  1. a7818239

    a7818239 New Member

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    I want to get my first Star Wars studio scale kit and would like to be a Darth Vader tie fighter so I was hoping with all the knowledge on here you guys could help me out on who makes the best.

    now I have two choice.

    1 is Chris Kelly's studio scale X-1
    MMM_KELLEY_SITH_PLANET_X1_BUILD_004.jpg
    MMM_KELLEY_SITH_PLANET_X1_BUILD_007.jpg


    2 is nice n X-1

    111.jpg
    222.jpg

    please help me to choose!
    thanks to everybody
     
  2. Fett_Ish

    Fett_Ish Well-Known Member

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    I have a Nice-N X-1 and have to say it very nice.
     
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  3. akumazeto

    akumazeto Active Member

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    Nice N models all day long and twice on sunday
     
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2018
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  4. a7818239

    a7818239 New Member

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    That's true
    I'm already known how to choose,thanks a lot
     
  5. JetSetWilly

    JetSetWilly Well-Known Member

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    What is it in particular that makes the Nce-N kit better? Casting, materials, accuracy?

    Cheers
     
  6. Voodoocaster

    Voodoocaster Well-Known Member

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    Nothing makes it better!
    I own a Chris Kelley X1 and it is accurate aside from a few scratch build greeblies,..i even think his tie ball dimensions are more accurate than the niesen version,that is if Steve used his dimensions from his tie-fighters to master the x1.
    If that is the case then his tie ball is slightly undersized and the Chris Kelley x1 is more accurate.
    The x1 mastered by chris kelley is now cast and sold by korbanth and it seems that he uses or used a type of resin that causes problems with paint adherence.
    I am not sure he still uses this resin or if something else causes/caused this problem but if he solved this problem than you can't beat the price of his current X1 offering,.it's a steal!
    I am not sure if korbanth includes a metal armature rod but that is a must since the wings are heavy.
    My version of the C.Kelley tie has wings casted by Mike Salzo(which i think also casts Steve Niesen's x-1,i am not sure)so all the details(diamondplate solar panel) are there and the warpage is minimal.
    I am not sure if korbanth can pull this off,but if he can then i believe his X-1 is the better one for accuracy and price.
    That just my opinion.
     
  7. JetSetWilly

    JetSetWilly Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for your opinion, appreciate it.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Any particular reason? Cheers

     
  8. JetSetWilly

    JetSetWilly Well-Known Member

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    Any particular reason you would recommend the Nice-N over the CK? Thanks.

     
  9. Voodoocaster

    Voodoocaster Well-Known Member

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    I think akumazeto means praying all day long and twice on sunday for the kit to arrive complete and in a decent amount of time:lol
    AHHHH !sorry for that Steve,..i just could help myself,..won't happen again!
     
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  10. OlivierC

    OlivierC Active Member

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    I'm with Voodoocaster here. Nice N kits are nice and I wish I could fully recommend them, but get ready to wait if you buy it directly from him. When he says he has a kit in stock ready to ship, it's about a 2 months wait, that happened with my bwing. I know, two months ain't that bad but that's not what I call "ready to ship". And i'm still waiting for an Awing that I fully paid back in February (we are talking about a very expensive kit here). And with little to no communication, you pretty much have to harass him to get any update. Will probably never deal with him again. I have seen some Nice N vader tie in the Junkyard section recently, I'd check here first if I were you

    Edit: I also feel bad for outing him like that, but I'm very displeased with these business practices. If I knew the wait would have been that long, on an expensive kit I fully paid ahead, I would have probably not ordered. And the excuses he gave are kind of bull****
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2018
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  11. Jkirkon

    Jkirkon Well-Known Member

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    I wanted one of Steves kits, and since I’m not on FB, I asked my wife to contact him on FB messenger. He got back to her, but never emailed me after several assurances he would send me an invoice for the model.

    Too bad, I really would have liked the model....his comms are crap.
     
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  12. JetSetWilly

    JetSetWilly Well-Known Member

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    Not wanting to turn this into reasons why not to buy from Steve but, yes, there does seem to be enough reasons not to. The (still active) pinned post in this section being a big one.
    Still all feels a bit cliquey, which is a shame.

    Thanks for your input.
     
  13. DaveG

    DaveG Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Try Randy Johnson at www.korbanth.com. He's got a really nice X1 kit coming out soon, delayed until October I think. And it's under $400.
     
  14. akumazeto

    akumazeto Active Member

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    Anyone wants a Nice-n Models Bwing mine is for sale for 500. I started the main wing hence the price. Korbanth resin is still having adhesion issues.
     
  15. JetSetWilly

    JetSetWilly Well-Known Member

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    I sent him a pm asking about this and a few other things a week or so ago but got no reply. Shame as I hoped this would be a good option.
     
  16. moffeaton

    moffeaton Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I can't get paint to stick to my Neisen Vader either. Tape pulls it right up. Heck, I sprayed it with compressed air to get dust out of the built and painted ball and the paint just sheeted off and blew away. Hopeful that since I have sanded the entire thing, again, that I'll have more luck with Krylon Fusion as a primer. We shall see.

    It's a good idea to sand the whole thing anyway, as it has a pebbly texture (from the 3d print, maybe?). Shave off all the chips and redo them. It's faster.

    37867637_10156569662613156_5356696586099359744_n.jpg

    Just be careful what you buy - ask if they are using mold release, or if the caster they sub the work to is using mold release. Have a clause that you will get a full refund if you can't get primer to adhere. I bought two full BB-8s from Korbanth that were mastered so poorly that you could see deep grow lines. Add to that that there were dents in the forms because the molds were apparently not rigid enough? Anyway, sent them back and got a full refund. And then was unfriended on Facebook by Korbanth, lol.

    So in my opinion, you just need to scratch build everything. It's faster, less work, less headache, and probably cheaper.
     
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2018
  17. Voodoocaster

    Voodoocaster Well-Known Member

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    Sanding seems to be a good solution but make sure before you sand that you wash and scrub the freshly moulded resin in warm soapy water and let it air dry. after that, to make sure their is no "oily"residu, i usually whipe the parts with acetone or alcohol.
    If you sand without degreasing the parts you might end up sanding the grease into the surface of the resin which basicly is the thing you were trying to get rid of.
    Fortunatelly i have had (not yet) any adhesion problems and i never sanded the resin parts before painting by the way ,.i only scrubbed and wiped.
    I also have heard that some resins are just badly mixed(badly meassured part A and B) and the oily part keeps seeping out of the "cured"resin parts no matter what you do.
    You could try to fix this (helps with sticky "not well cured"resin) by dusting talcum powder or calcium carbonate on the parts in the hope this will absorp most of the oil.
    You can remove the chalk after a couple of days,..but i think the chalk will only have absorbed the close to the surface oils ,.there will remain oil in the deeper areas finding it's way to the surface(advanced when the temperature rises) .
    To get rid of the mould release maybe you could also try to spay the resin with laquer thinner or naphtha and wipe the parts,.. i am not too sure though if this will dissolve the silicone or vaseline based mould release or just thin it.
    If it just thins it than it will be of no use and perhaps naphtha will dammage the resin surface.
     
  18. 3phase

    3phase Well-Known Member

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    Use etch primer. I've never had a problem since.
     
  19. Matte Painter

    Matte Painter New Member

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    What paint were you using there?
     
  20. JetSetWilly

    JetSetWilly Well-Known Member

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    The x1 seems to have been removed from the korbanth website.
     
  21. akumazeto

    akumazeto Active Member

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    I also wonder if the extreme humidity is causing casting issues this year. Painting the Salzo v5 right now not a single issue. I have done test sprays on my nice n models B wing and it too is fine.
     
  22. moffeaton

    moffeaton Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    :lol
    Guys I'm not new to resin. I cleaned it well.

    After multiple tries with different primers, the Upol Acid Etch 8 seems to be sticking. You know - after wasting WEEKS.
     
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  23. vectorzero

    vectorzero Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Yep. Andy (flyscriber) is doing mine and also had to use etch primer.
     
  24. greeble_gremlin

    greeble_gremlin Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    As of this date Mike Salzo has not done any of the castings Of the new Nice-n X-1 TIE fighter.
    Though I wish he would, I think it would bring an end to some of the problems I am reading about regarding the caliber of the castings.
     
  25. greeble_gremlin

    greeble_gremlin Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Vooodoocaster,
    I am afraid your knowledge/information regarding the Nice-n TIE fighter is a little out of date.
    [ Undersatably, the history development of Steven's SS TIE Fighter kit may be a bit confusing.]
    The Fuselage, AKA: TIE ball and arms (and related components) were completely re-mastered back in 2015.
    The current outside diameter of the "Ball" is 5.25" Inches (5-1/4") This is larger than the older version of the kit.
    The Current version of the TIE Wings (WingStar & Hub) were re-mastered back in 2010. dimensions for the new wings taken off an original ANH miniature. (now in a private collection) I think they became available for the kit around 2011-12. (not really sure)
    The Nice-n X-1 TIe Fighter also mastered in 2015, also has diameter of 5.25" and has always been that size.

    ...so enough about the size of Steve's balls.
    ;):lol:

    Regarding the accuracy of Chris Kelly's X-1 TIE kit:
    First of all I want to be completely clear; It is a wonderful kit! ...beautifully engineered. It goes together quite nice.
    I have the utmost admiration for Chris's work. I still would like to get hold of one of his Blockade Runner kits they are beautiful!
    He is a very talented Modeler.
    His version of the X-1 kit does however, have a few inaccuracies. Based on the information he had available to him at the time he did an excellent job. The inaccuracies are minor, chiefly, thay have to do with the shape and "character" of the main fuselage, (engineering deck / sail panel area)
    Also the dimensions of the wings and the black "solar panel" material.
    Given the information he had available to him at the time, I certainly could not have done as wonderful a job on the subject.

    In mastering the Nice-n X-1 TIe. The team had direct to ILM assets. They were able to take measurements off the wings etc. ... and a casting/impression of the original light diffuser material used for the solar panel section. In this regard, the Nice-n X-1 Advanced TIE is the more accurate of the two. I may put up a diagram, to try and better explain what I mean regarding the "character" of the fuselage.

    I have to say, very valid points and concerns have been raised regarding issues with the quality of the most recent castings of the Nice-n X-1 TIe Fighter kit.
    Also, there is the issue of a "not so stellar" track record for timely delivery, once purchase has been made from Nice-n Model Designs.
    These are certainly factors decidedly against choosing the Nice-n X-1 Kit.

    Hope this information helps.
     
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  26. vectorzero

    vectorzero Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Hi Greeblie_gremlin. Very interesting notes on the history of the Nice-n kits. I got the X-1 in January 2018 and the TIE in August.

    If you compare the two cockpits you can see that they are different.

    The following show the two cockpits next to each other, the cockpit window frame of the fighter compared to the X-1 and the X-1 top hatch on the TIE fighter ball.

    This evidence and a number of issues that Andy (flyscriber) has had with the cockpit detailing seems to point to a 5” ball on this (4 month old?) TIE fighter.
    2C016E68-B8D6-4C82-A5F2-6AE74E00E1DD.jpeg A909851E-6464-4CEC-8197-A9F9B84A6AF5.jpeg 1CEFF4FB-D787-40B2-9956-EFF7B8473886.jpeg
    Given the timeframe my expectation was that I would have the latest kits. Should I be asking Steve for a new cockpit?
     
  27. greeble_gremlin

    greeble_gremlin Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Wish I had one of either, :(
    ... still waiting :rolleyes: still waiting...

    Wow! ??
    I wonder why Steve is not using the new masters(2015) of the 5.25" TIE ball.
    Perhaps some confusion, with the caster who has been tasked with the castings...
    that is very odd??

    No wonder there has been so much confusion about the kits.
    Sorry, VoodooCaster,
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2019
  28. greeble_gremlin

    greeble_gremlin Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    In making the Fuselage for the X-1, You could see how the "arms" of Standard TIE fit just beneath the X-1's arms, even the pitch/ angle of the planes/panels. At the time I could even tell what thickness of styrene they used to clad over the arms; though now it escapes me.
    Of course you can not draw that correlation with the two different sizes you have.
     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2019
  29. greeble_gremlin

    greeble_gremlin Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I do not profess the be an all-knowing expert on all things TIE fighter... on the contrary.
    One part of the original build I do know, information referred to me second-hand from an account by one of the original ILM modelers (forget which one at the moment)
    They had taken a 5" Plastruct hemisphere, and vacuformed 2 layers styrene over the hemisphere for doing the panels & panel lines.
    He could not recollect the thicknesses they used. However 2 layers of .060 would account for a 5.25" size for the ball.
    Keep in mind allowing for some minute "added" thickness between layers with solvent/ glue.
    This would also bear out as some dimensions taken of TIE fighters filming miniatures made in ESB & Jedi, measured just a tadd under 5.25"
    Generational shrinkage and old molds would account for this.
     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2019
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