Work [nearly finished] on my 1/350 TOS Enterprise (series version)

JMChladek

Sr Member
I got my lighting kit a little over a week ago at the hobby shop, so after a few preliminary light tests I've started work on my 1/350 Polar Lights classic Enterprise. I was on the fence about whether or not to do it as a pilot ship since I am using the Premiere version of the kit with the pilot parts. But ultimately I settled on doing a series version so I could go the whole nine yards with the lighting.

My first efforts are starting with the bridge. The lighting kit provides a clear bridge insert that allows for the consoles to potentially be lit, but admittedly this can't really be done effectively UNLESS you get your hands on the Paragraphics photoetch set (which I did). It includes etched panels for each station and viewscreens as well. It also includes options for the pilot 1 style ship with its different screens (I'm saving those for another model).

I lightly sanded the part with 600 grit paper before starting the paintwork. One thing I opted not to use from the etch set were the bridge railings as I am not experienced enough with etch to fold parts THAT tiny. Plus, at the angles the bridge will be visible under the dome, one can't necessarily tell if they are etched or plastic if they are painted well anyway.

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The flash photography makes things look a little sloppy, but in person things seem to look fine. I still need to plug some light leaks on the part anyway until I get it where I want it. A black wash and a fine line black pen worked wonders to pick out details like the steps leading to the center section.

To do the viewscreens, after painting consoles with clear tints and applying the photoetch (then the black console decals) I next applied the stock viewscreen decals. They have no white backing so light can shine through them, but the entire set of viewscreen decals are clear, so without some type of light block (where the photoetch comes in) they look really funky. Thankfully, the photoetch does its job in that department. I encountered a slight alignment issue with the right side consoles, but the left side ones (engineering, auxilliary systems) seemed to work fine. One final bit of serendipity that I noticed is there is a skinny gap between the console and the viewscreens. So I back painted the areas with some clear yellow, used a fine line black pen to put in some small blinky screen dividers (eight per big station, four per small) and the results looked rather passable.

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I painted the inside of the bridge dome silver. There are enough gaps that lights from inside the saucer should spill enough light up and over to cast some lighting onto the floor of the dome. I've been doing preliminary light tests with an LED flashlight and while it has shown I need to plug some light leaks in the floor of the part, I am liking the results a lot.

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Once I get this area finished, I might work on the shuttle bay next.
 
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Re: Work started on my 1/350 TOS Enterprise (series version)

Very nice!! It's really impressive that you can do this amount of detail on such a small piece. Looking forward to your build progress.
 
Re: Work started on my 1/350 TOS Enterprise (series version)

WHOA!!! :popcorn
Outstanding work Jay!!! That really looks quite impressive, and it's not even done!!! Nice job, this is gonna be a beauty!!!

-Sean
 
Re: Work started on my 1/350 TOS Enterprise (series version)

Looking good Jay!!

I am not sure if I will do my bridge or not!
Will do all the rest though, paying special attention to the shuttle bay!

Kenny
 
Re: Work started on my 1/350 TOS Enterprise (series version)

Sweet! Nice work with all the detailing you're doing.
 
Re: Work started on my 1/350 TOS Enterprise (series version)

What an awesome start!! It looks great!! I chickened out and opted for the white dome. Maybe 3rd or 4th build I'll tackle it.
 
Re: Work started on my 1/350 TOS Enterprise (series version)

Nice work on the bridge!
Will you have the entire area darkened with the instrument lights or will you have an interior light as well, illuminating the entire bridge.

If it's not too late as far as the progress of the build goes, the railings are doable. I build all my small parts on a sheet of glass, gluing the first piece on the glass and building up as I go. The same technique can be used for the railings, and maybe a little reinforcement with some .005" styrene on the back of the joints for good measure.

Sweet build!
 
Re: Work started on my 1/350 TOS Enterprise (series version)

Nice work on the bridge!
Will you have the entire area darkened with the instrument lights or will you have an interior light as well, illuminating the entire bridge.

If it's not too late as far as the progress of the build goes, the railings are doable. I build all my small parts on a sheet of glass, gluing the first piece on the glass and building up as I go. The same technique can be used for the railings, and maybe a little reinforcement with some .005" styrene on the back of the joints for good measure.

Sweet build!

Well, based on my lighting tests, it looks like the bulbs should be able to do both. With silver coating the entire inner dome and the gaps between the outer bridge and the dome interior, there should be enough spill light generated to illuminate the center floor. At least that seems to be the case when I shine my LED flashlight in there as I do see the center floor area brightening a little from a "skylight" type effect.

The way the bridge is designed, it appears there are three bulbs that attach to it. One goes in front of the viewscreen and two go on either side to presumably also light the red lights on the left and right of the production version dome (the pilot dome doesn't have that). I'm hoping too much light isn't generated by these bulbs, otherwise I might have to alter the lighting a little (shouldn't need much though and I suppose I could darken the lights a little with some tinted clear film to cut the glare down).

I'll probably tackle the etched rails when I do a pilot 1 version of the ship since they are a bit unique (no side steps, just front and rear). But for a series version with as relatively dark as its going to be (even with the spill light) and for the limited angle it can be seen from, the stock rails will be fine. Besides, while I know I can do the etch if I had to, it was the potential for screwing up the stock part that was giving me more pause since once you start a modification like that, you can't go back. And with this project being my first major attempt at lighting (with lots of other little firsts), there are only so many "firsts" I want to do. I'll eventually make an attempt with the railings, but after I've got at least one of these models under my belt.

Plus, the pilot bridge does tend to be lit more by the overhead lights as opposed to the monitors and blinkies which give the series bridge a "Christmas Tree" feel, so my detail and paint work would have to be a bit more precise with the lighter colors. If I do a lighted pilot bridge, I'll see about modifying the gray bridge piece (replacing the station viewscreens with clear before adding the etch) and not attempting to light the console buttons so that the colors don't interfere with the spill light from overhead. At least when I get my next 1/350 TOS E, I'll have two gray bridges to work with, so then I can practice all I want with one of them.
 
Re: Work started on my 1/350 TOS Enterprise (series version)

Cool, Jay!
Now subscribed to this thread!
 
Re: Work started on my 1/350 TOS Enterprise (series version)

Keep it up Jay. It's looking fantastic!
 
Re: Work started on my 1/350 TOS Enterprise (series version)

Nice work on the bridge, I'll be keeping my eye on this build. Great solution to the problem with the misplaced windows on the bottom of the saucer, too. :thumbsup
 
Re: Work started on my 1/350 TOS Enterprise (series version)

I've got a little more work done. Pictures coming soon (as well as video). Mainly I've been figuring out the nuances of the lighting kit. I had to replace one of the strip connectors for a set of LED tape lights, but I'm not planning to light the warp engine inner grills anyway (why light those if my impulse engines are glowing?). One thing I did notice with the big red and green upper saucer port and starboard beacons is their stems are a bit tiny to transfer light and you almost have to put the flashing LED's right under them to get them to glow with enough brilliance. I also cut back the stems a little with a Dremel tool and an engraving tip (thinning the gray plastic underneath in the process to try and open them up a bit) to get them to light up a bit better.

Red or green clear paint on the clear versions might work a little better for light transfer, but be careful the red doesn't turn out pink in color (so two tint coats might be needed). I've also found for the small lights its a good idea to glue those in with white glue as they fit fine and won't come off unless you deliberately pull on them, yet you can dismount these parts for painting if you don't want to have to mask over them (easier to mask a hole than a little lit bump). Also, the smoke tinted big domes can also work rather nicely as quick and dirty masks. Just pop them in to paint, when done, pop them out and stick in the clear dome parts.
 
Re: Work started on my 1/350 TOS Enterprise (series version)

I've uploaded my second video documenting my project. For lighting newcomers, this one covers some precautions to take with lighting and some other tips that can help as well. I also tackle a couple minor issues with the bussard collector lights. Once I get my lighted shuttle bay done, I'll shoot some more still photos. But until then, photo coverage is likely to be a little light since the model otherwise looks like the inside of any other lit model (silver with a lot of wires).

Polar Lights 1/350 Classic Star Trek Enterprise model project Part 2 - YouTube
 
Re: Work started on my 1/350 TOS Enterprise (series version)

I watched your video and in regards to swapping out the smaller marker lights during painting to avoid getting paint on the good parts have you considered just covering them with Microscale Micro Mask liquid? I've used it many times to cover rounded or oddly shaped surfaces and it works great!
 
Re: Work started on my 1/350 TOS Enterprise (series version)

Every time I've used a liquid masking medium, things tend to go a bit haywire for some reason. Usually I have problems with the stuff not peeling off (probably because I didn't build up enough of a layer of it) or I end up masking off a little too much and end up having to retouch an area I didn't want to. Plus, I've never quite been able to cut the stuff cleanly either (even with a steady hand and a good X-acto blade).

Worst thing I had happen was about 13 years ago I was painting up the AMT/Ertl Jupiter 2 from the Lost In Space movie and I was using a liquid masking medium to cover over the recessed circuit/machinery areas that I had painted on the hull (including a really nice drybrushing job) before painting the main body panels and when it came time to take the stuff off, it came off cleanly as I built up enough layers. But it pulled up my detail paint because it grabbed on too hard. So the painstaking work I did had to be redone (so much for the time savings).

I know guys who like using liquid masks and they have achieved some great things with it. So I am not saying "don't buy it" or anything like that. But, I've just never had good luck with the stuff and I prefer to stick with what I know works for me anyway. Besides, between the smoke and white tinted parts of the standard 1/350 kit and the different colored lens lights of the light kit, there are plenty of these dome parts that can be used as disposible masks (unless one wants to strip the paint off them later), there are plenty of things that can be utilized (or, sticking styrene rod in the light shaft holes for masking also works).
 
Re: Work started on my 1/350 TOS Enterprise (series version)

Well, I shot some more still photos of my work in progress...

The bridge still has a couple pesky light leaks, but my second fit test shows it should work fine

bridgetest2_zps1fb5c88a.jpg


One thing I noticed on a test fit of the clear bridge dome is it acts like a magnifying glass, so the bridge becomes very visible. I want to try and keep the paint work as precise as possible here.

Remember how the model has a slight error with those round porthole windows on the bottom of the saucer being improperly positioned (on the wrong side of a panel line)? Well, I followed the steps to cut new ones. But rather than filling the old ones with putty, I just used the smoke tinted windows glued in instead. That way, when I sand them flush, they will sand the same as the rest of the plastic (and solvent glues lock them into the plastic VERY well).

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With this kit, light tests are frequent to make sure it all works. So far so good with the saucer lights. I've got some light leaks I have to address, but they are relatively small. I am really liking what I see at least.

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I installed the impulse deck a couple nights ago. To get that brilliant orange glow, I sprayed the backside with clear orange and backed it up with clear red to give it more of a "color of fire" look. The grills are from the Round 2 photo etch set (you get two slightly different types). Since my model will be at impulse, I probably won't light the intercooler grills on the nacelles, just the lighted and motorized bussards.

impulsetest1_zps91724720.jpg
 
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