I have yet to see a good guide on whats the difference between a good sword and a crap one, so I figure maybe I should say something on this topic, bear in mind this is for those that want a sword and not a wall hanger.
Information is the most important factor, obviously, find out as much as you can about the specs of the particular sword your after and do a comparison, not just in prices, but about the quality.
The main type of aspects to consider is
the tang
steel type and is it heat treated or able to be heat treated
distal taper in the thickness
There are numerous factors but these are the main ones.
First the tang- this is probably the most common thing which defines a cheap wall hanger to a real sword. Many cheap swords still use the welded on tang instead of forging one, or stock removing it as a whole with the blade together.
Fact is no matter how GOOD the weld is or how wide/thick the tang is, it will NEVER hold up to the strength as a stock removed or forged one. Albion always uses full tangs, Marto dosen't, Windlass also uses full tangs but I'm uncertain at this stage about these conan swords.
The steel and heat treatment, is another area where the sword will either retain, break, or bend its edge. Without going into too much detail in this, because its safe to say that almost all major sword makers do use a heat-treatable steel of some sort, and that the sword is actually heat treated when you buy. Some steels are better than others, but generally speaking they're all good so long as you don't hack through dried out logs, concrete slabs, rocks, use them as chisels or screw drivers, have combat sessions where its axe or maul vs sword, or hooping them to see if it will spring back, and so fourth. With this as long as its a heat treated high carbon steel of some kind, then its good.
the distal taper is something which I find is severely neglected by many people, especially ones who brag that they think they know a lot about swords because they have picked one up before and had some little social competition with it in some group.
For those that are unsure what I'm referring to, its the gradual increase of thickness of the blade from tip to the end of the tang where the pommel should be. A good robust sword should be made from stock of more or less 6mm in thickness. The thickest area should be around the tang and gradually thinning out until reaching the tip. This is what real pro's refer to about balancing the sword, and is the real difference maker between 2 swords of the same length and width, but different thickness. For example if you see a sword that has a thickness of 5.8 mm at the base and 2.8 mm at the tip, then you can safely assume that someone has put a fair amount of effort in reaching balance in that sword. If its more or less the same in thickness at both tip and base, then likely the sword also has a very large door nob sized pommel doing all the work to create the balance and making the sword very prone to breakage and very heavy at the same time. If however the blade has a tip of 2.4 mm or less in thickness regardless of what the base is, then it has been overdone. Sure the blade will feel as light as rapier but it won't hold well against even moderate blows, it will wobble heavily when struck and won't take long to break.
Albion and Windlass both put distal taper in all their swords but at no fixed ratio, some are too thin while others are still heavy, Marto puts no distal taper in their conan swords.
Final word, don't buy what you don't know enough about. Find out what you can, but if your still unsure then don't waste your money on disappointing yourselves, a higher price doesn't always mean a higher quality,
for any sword!