which 3d printer

[NS4]

I've only had limited experience with mine as I've only had it for a couple of weeks, but I can offer my experience so far:
Working with the resin hasn't been as bad as i had imagined. I make sure to wear gloves/glasses when handling the resin or uncured prints and use it in a fairly well ventilated area. The smell isn't nearly as bad or strong as I'd read (I have only tried the resin that came with the machine so far though).
The prints stick very well to the build plate. I had read that using a metal scrapper was better than the include plastic one, but I ended up scratching the plate removing the first model!. It was easily fixed with a light sanding with wet and dry, but I went back to using the plastic after that!.
The support bases have a slight lip on them by design (when using Chitubox) so you can get the scrapper underneath to pop the prints off.
I clean up in IPA.. The build plate cleans up easily. I leave any soiled rages and support/scrap resin parts in the sun for 10 mins before throwing them away.
I already have a (cheapo) ultrasonic cleaner, so I did try it. I placed the part in IPA inside a zip lock bag and then put the bag into water in the cleaner. It worked very well, but I also had great results by simply swishing the part in a small Tupperware container of IPA and a light scrub with an old toothbrush.
Make sure to wear eye protection when removing supports!
I don't have any UV lights, so I just put the prints in the sun for about 10mins to cure.
I am yet to clean out the vat. I have been lucky in that I have had no failed prints, so have avoided the need to. Despite the advise to remove any resin if you wont be printing for more than 2 days, I have also seen a lot of accounts of people leaving it for extended periods without issue as long it is out of any light source. I kept the cardboard box that the printer came in and simply cut the end off so that I can put it over the printer when not in use (to keep any stray light away).
If the resin has pigment in it, it may separate in which case a gentle stir in the vat would be required before printing. I've had no issues and the resin has been in the vat for the two weeks. I just top it up as needed.
Dont worry too much about messing up - it's actually pretty straight forward. Just follow the instructions and print the test print first to confirm that everything is working properly, then you can move onto doing your own thing - I'm sure you're going to have a blast with it

 

[propmaster2000]

I've only had limited experience with mine as I've only had it for a couple of weeks, but I can offer my experience so far:
Working with the resin hasn't been as bad as i had imagined. I make sure to wear gloves/glasses when handling the resin or uncured prints and use it in a fairly well ventilated area. The smell isn't nearly as bad or strong as I'd read (I have only tried the resin that came with the machine so far though).
The prints stick very well to the build plate. I had read that using a metal scrapper was better than the include plastic one, but I ended up scratching the plate removing the first model!. It was easily fixed with a light sanding with wet and dry, but I went back to using the plastic after that!.
The support bases have a slight lip on them by design (when using Chitubox) so you can get the scrapper underneath to pop the prints off.
I clean up in IPA.. The build plate cleans up easily. I leave any soiled rages and support/scrap resin parts in the sun for 10 mins before throwing them away.

.
.
Can you post any recent pictures of the prints off the table?
It would be nice to see the results of your efforts.
Also, Can individual prints be glued together?
Thanks.
.

 

[B Wo]

Thanks to everyone posting about their 3D printing experience in this thread so far. I've been considering an Elegoo Mars or Anycubic Photon, so I enjoy hearing what people think, particularly in this forum. I am blown away when I see the prints those machines are capable of.

I've been printing on an Ender 3 since last Christmas. I don't have much experience with 3D printing, and I don't print a ton, but I'm impressed with the results I get, and with the ease of use. Cura has done everything I need it to do.

I've recently started printing in .12mm layer height, down from the standard .2mm. I'm still using a .4mm nozzle. I am shocked by the difference it made.

 

[Kylash]

Finally going to take the dip with an Elegoo Mars I think. Until now I have never been convinced that 3d printers produce acceptable detail or that the final results were worth all the smoothing and sanding and filling required, but these resin printers are finally there.

 

[xl97]

If only the Elegoo had a bigger print volume..

I would pull the trigger ASAP...

 

[propmaster2000]

.
.
.
.

I've been printing on an Ender 3 since last Christmas. I don't have much experience with 3D printing, and I don't print a ton, but I'm impressed with the results I get, and with the ease of use. Cura has done everything I need it to do.

I've recently started printing in .12mm layer height, down from the standard .2mm. I'm still using a .4mm nozzle. I am shocked by the difference it made.

Hi B Wo,
The Ender 3 is a really reliable printer and prints great when needed. I personally have 3 and another I can use any time.
When this little printer is tuned and setup properly, it really works magic.
I print white PLA at this time and if I print the part as individual pieces, it glues up fine and takes paint well.
.
I print all the time and have printed hundreds of items so far. I have only just begun.
At .12mm - .15mm layer height with a .4mm nozzle is good for a fairly nice finish using the proper settings as well.
.
Post pics when you can
.

 

[NS4]

.
.
Can you post any recent pictures of the prints off the table?
It would be nice to see the results of your efforts.
Also, Can individual prints be glued together?
Thanks.
.

Sure - this is a calibration print (Ameralabs) I did so that I have a base to work from when I switch to another brand of resin (once the machine supplied one runs out).





Straight off the printer - no supports and no cleanup what so ever.
This only ~30mm across at it's widest point and printed at the default resolution of .05mm!

Glueing parts together is not a problem. I'm using Weld-on #3, but superglue or 2 part exopxy would also work.
You could also just paint some resin on the parts, stick them together and cure.

 

[propmaster2000]

Thanks for the pic's....

 

[xl97]

I was not aware that 'resin' based printers had layer lines as well.. usually in all those 'grey' models they show.. they smooth as heck! no lines.. no nothing.

But in the green one above.. I see.. lines I guess?

Is this due to the layer height chosen?
Nature of the beast? (they all have lines..resin one too?)
Or the size the model perhaps?

 

[TSpawn]

I was not aware that 'resin' based printers had layer lines as well.. usually in all those 'grey' models they show.. they smooth as heck! no lines.. no nothing.

But in the green one above.. I see.. lines I guess?

Is this due to the layer height chosen?
Nature of the beast? (they all have lines..resin one too?)
Or the size the model perhaps?

There are layer lines and also could be voxels (you can actually see the pixels from the masking LCD on curves sometimes. This isn't something that happens on laser sla printers like the Form) depending on the layer height and size and orientation of the object. Here is a keycap (from thingiverse I think) I printed at 0.05mm layer height and if you look really closely you can see them. And I think you can see the layer lines easier because I hit it with a bit of fine surface primer. I included a Nintendo Switch cartridge for size reference. I know you can print at 0.02mm or 0.01mm for a really really really fine finish but that like doubles or quadruples the print time lol.

 

[Kylash]

The layer lines on the Elegoo Mars are equivilant to a fingerprint... minimal sanding or even a coat of paint would make them disappear.

 

[Mara Jade's Father]

Hi all. I am afraid I am going to ask some of the same questions that have been asked a million times. I did some reading but since it seems like home 3D printing technology is constantly changing, I need to make sure I am getting the latest info.

So I think I am ready to buy a printer.

I'd like a printer that produces the item with as little clean up as possible.

I need to know the pros and cons of resin and filament printers. It seems like you either buy one or the other, not a combo right?

I have no idea what I am going to print so I would also like to hear about print sizes and limitations of the models.

I have no idea at this point how to make my own files so I will rely on downloads at first. What can i do to get smarter on design?

What other questions should I be asking, feel free to address any other issues you think I am missing.

 

[ScoobiJohn]

if you want to print miniatures and tiny wee stuff with high detail then go resin otherwise go with a normal filament printer which one depends on your budget and how much tinkering you wanna do - but your always gonna have clean up - well maybe not with resin printers but wouldn't count on it even then

 

[propmaster2000]

Mara Jade's Father,
I don't have any experience with resin type printers so I can't comment on the quality of the final print or even what it takes to get there.
Not sure about cost of the resin, what are the color choices, how is it stored, is there waste to deal with, can it be glued together, etc.?
.
I do however have a fair amount of experience with FDM versions, specifically the CR10S and 3 - ENDER 3's.
Be aware that the ENDER 3 and ENDER 3 pro are kits and must be assembled.
.
I mostly print with PLA because I don't feel the need to print ABS at this point in time.
ABS has many more issues when using it which I don't want to deal with (higher temperatures required, produces toxic fumes, needs a ventilated enclosure, storage, etc.).
PLA is reasonably priced.
.
If you are really new to the technology of 3D printing, then I think PLA is the way to go in my opinion. It does not need an enclosure or produce toxic fumes. The printing surface (bed) does not need to be much above normal room temperature (I have never heated the bed unless the current room temperature is really cold). Some times the location of the printer may be in a drafty area, so a simple clear plexi enclosure is nice to have.

.
The price per 1KG of filament is reasonable and comes in many colors. The model can be printed in sections, sanded (if needed) glued together and painted. It can also be heated and bent to shape if required (masks, etc.)
.
If you are looking to do close tolerances objects, then reducing the size of the nozzle from .04mm to .02mm may be required with no problems doing so.
If you have more then one FDM printer of the same model, the gCODE's can be interchangeable if the printers are assembled exactly the same way.
.
You can print a particular model in sections (a portion on each of the printers) to save time in a day, because you are printing all at the same time, reducing the total time lost in a day.
Speed of the print has never been an issue since you don't have to baby sit the printer while it is doing it's job. Set it and (more or less) forget it.
While it is printing, just do something else in the process.
Instead of speeding the printer up with the possibility of lower quality results, just get another printer to do part of the work since the prices have become more affordable and the parts are interchangeable.
.
You can start printing with the ENDER 3 with just what comes in the box with no need for added modifications.
Leveling the bed has never been an issue for me and I very rarely have to perform the "leveling" procedure between prints.
I transport my printers to many different locations and after initial setup, it just prints with no re-calibration needed.
There has been times when I needed to move the printer from one room to another while it was in the process of printing.
All that was needed was to turn off the printer, unplug and move it to the new spot. Plug it back in, tell the printer to start
again and it will start the print from where it left off...
.
Of course my views are all based on my personal experience and printer usage.
There are many users with there own perspectives and usage issues.
.

 

[Mara Jade's Father]

if you want to print miniatures and tiny wee stuff...

I don't have any experience with resin type printers so I can't comment ...

I just wanted to thank the both of you for you input. I was also talking to someone else off the board and he back what both of you were saying. He too felt that filament style and specifically the Ender 3 Pro (as propmanster2000 had also recommended) was the way to go for a beginner such as myself. Thank you.

 

[TazMan2000]

I just wanted to thank the both of you for you input. I was also talking to someone else off the board and he back what both of you were saying. He too felt that filament style and specifically the Ender 3 Pro (as propmanster2000 had also recommended) was the way to go for a beginner such as myself. Thank you.

Most FDM printers are alike, especially with a Creality model. On my first purchase of a 3D printer I went with the CR-10S. I was nervous as heck but I realized it didn't take long to get accustomed to what it could do and I was thankful I purchased one with a bigger bed. Sometimes I wish I could have went with a larger one.

You'll soon realize that you can print all sorts of things, that you probably never thought about before, and if you're using it for scratchbuilding, it can help you be a better modeller in many ways. One of the drawbacks of any FDM printer is the layer height. Even if you are printing at 0.1mm you will still get noticeable layer lines that you will need to fill in. But you will still revel in what it can do.

As with most electronics, you always have to upgrade because you always expect more. Again I was nervous about going with a resin printer. I purchased a Elegoo Mars and after a couple of weeks, realize that I should have went with a bigger bed. Once you realize what these printers can do, you always want to go bigger.

I wouldn't recommend you go with a resin printer now, but depending on what you plan on building, I would definitely not limit yourself to a small bed.

TazMan2000

 

[Use the swartz]

I have a falshforge finder. Good budget price and prints very well. I’ve not had any major issues in two years. This is my alien I recently built in blender and printed