What is the method for "printing" on metal

Ampix0

Member
Sorry if this is the wrong section.. it doesn't really seem like there is a section for methods here. I am considering starting some work on some video game props, and I have seen some examples online, but they all look home made. What I see people do is overlay paper print on top of metal and just glue it or seal coat it.

I want to come as close to the actual method as possible.

One of the things I want to do is make the "Nuka Cola bottle caps" from Fallout.

here is an example of a real Coca Cola Bottle Cap.
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Now I have considered just making a mask from blue painters tape and painting, but this is flimsy and sometimes too intricate. Also with masks, there is always that possibility that a certain shape just isn't possible with a mask, like when a piece will end up floating out on it's own.

I don't even know where to begin to find out what the industrial method is for research.
 
That's what I would do: printing my design in original size MIRRORED on a paper sheet with a laser printer, then using a transfer medium to tranfer the print to the bottle cap. Of course, it's still a kind of glueing, but you "glue" just the print, not the paper. I'm sure you will not see any difference to a real print.
 
That's what I would do: printing my design in original size MIRRORED on a paper sheet with a laser printer, then using a transfer medium to tranfer the print to the bottle cap. Of course, it's still a kind of glueing, but you "glue" just the print, not the paper. I'm sure you will not see any difference to a real print.

You mean a heat transfer? Would that stick to metal?
I am also trying to not raise or texture the logo, attempting to keep it flush with the metal.
 
You mean a heat transfer? Would that stick to metal?
I am also trying to not raise or texture the logo, attempting to keep it flush with the metal.

No heat tranfer. It's a liquid water-based transfer medium. I use it to transfer laser prints onto canvas, but you can use it for metal too. Brush the print-out with the medium and lay the picture underside on the metal surface. Flatten and let it dry 24 hours. The next day you remove the paper with water and a soft sponge. Notice: the medium itself is water-based, but the transfered print is waterproof on your metal surface.

I use this one: Transfer Medium, VBS - VBS-Hobby.com

(I don't know if there's anything similar in your country)
 
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Bottle caps are screen printed while the metal is flat, then crimped on to the bottle.

If this were me, I would paint a bare metal bottle cap the red color, and then laser engrave the text/logo. The laser burns away the paint, leaving the metal showing through.

Of course, you'd need access to a laser engraver.

Alternatively, you could do it with a waterslide decal.
 
YA.. do not have access to a laser engraver lol I like the waterslide decal. That is a great. However... here is a small possible issue. How would this work if I am trying to transfer white text? There is no white ink... so..

I need something similar in mask form basically.
 
Y... How would this work if I am trying to transfer white text? There is no white ink... so.. ...

You have two options: use a white bottle cap or paint a white background (with acrylic paint, for example) before you transfer the print-out. It couldn't be any easier. ;)

Okay: if you want to have just the white text and the background is the metal surface, then you have a problem. :D
 
There are printers that can do white ink. There used to be a great line of printers by a brand called ALPS that could do all kinds of colors (metallics, white) but sadly they no longer make them.

You can also screen print onto decal paper.

There are all kinds of decal printing services that will do custom decals for model builders. Check them out.
 
There are printers that can do white ink. There used to be a great line of printers by a brand called ALPS that could do all kinds of colors (metallics, white) but sadly they no longer make them.

Since they had the re-release in the Asian market several years ago there are still plenty of used (and new old stock) to be found if you are really in the market for an ALPS... But, be aware they are costly and some machines can be down right temperamental...

I really need to get mine setup and operational full time again, all my ALPS printers have just been collecting dust in storage for years now :unsure
 
I dont really want to buy a printer or any machinery to do this little project.
You can see how this guy did it. But i think it looks like trash, it is obviously looks like paper on it.
 
Check this out on etsy.
il_570xN.332058013.jpg
http://www.etsy.com/listing/98485194/nuka-cola-bottle-cap-set-fallout

These look fantastic. How! lol
 
I found a vinyl cutter and for some reason I am considering purchasing it lol. I have to call them after the holiday and find out why it's so cheap. I figure I could sell some stickers/decals to pay for it and then use it to cut some sick masks for painting.
 
I was recently looking at a bottle cap I have at home for a root beer from Maine and I could see that the lettering was very faintly raised. So it seems a water slide decal and a thin coat of lacquer should be fine.
 
I've never used these guys, but they do custom bottle cap printing for $0.12 a cap - yes, that says twelve cents!

BottleMark Custom Bottle Caps

And lookee here in their Design Library...

Nuka Cola
nuka1.jpg


Nuka Cola 2
nuka2.jpg


Hope that helps.

Well that is just cheating lol

Ok, you know. I bought some, just because they are SOO cheap I don't care. I can rough them up a bit. Get some money maybe for a cutter after i modify them.
 
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For the level of graphic detail on the top of your bottle cap I’d use a custom Dry Transfer.
A dry transfer is basically an exact copy of your artwork with adhesive printed in registration on the rear of your design and they have no carrier film.
They can be printed in any single colour, multiples of colour and metallic foil finishes.
They're good for flat or curved surfaces, but they won't easily conform to compound curves.
If you’re tried to lay down a design or patch of colour on a compound curve the print would buckle and distort the image.

They're also incredibly thin, being only the thickness of the ink.
This method is how Letraset was produced back in the good old days!

I did a search and came up with Custom Transfers, Rub on Transfers, Rubons, Dry Transfers, Packaging Comps, Appearance Models, Rubdowns, Chromatecs, INTs in the States and :: COLOURSENSE :: Dry transfers * Rubdowns * Cromatecs * Chromatecs * Letraset * Rub on transfers in the UK, who I've used a few times for business projects.

In the UK they're also commonly known as Rubdowns, but when I did a stateside search for that I came up with something completely different!!

The photographs demonstrate just how small and delicate they can be.
 
A few months ago I got that Two DVD set that Fon Davis put out on model making. At one point he airbrushed a pattern on some thin material. Could use airbrush white onto a transfer sheet and then print the rest of the pattern on top of that?
 
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