What have I to fear? - Loki Avengers build

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ARC

Member
Hey! If I get mine done in time maybe I'll see you! I'm hoping I can afford to make it up to Atlanta. (And I think I'm going to invest in some sandpaper to get rid of the burrs you're talking about. >_<)

I've never worked with these in person but I can help a little bit. All the measurements I'm working out will be for what's visible from one side. A #5 zipper will be 5mm across both sets of teeth, so figure one of these stops has to cover half that width plus a little extra. So say you want your trim pieces to be about 5x5mm (and I have no idea what the ideal size is btw), you would probably want about size 8 stops. (Half of 8mm is 4mm and add a little) I hope this makes sense. I just tested this theory on the only zipper I could find that has this kind of metal stops- my pants zipper, haha. It appears to be a #5 and the stop is 3mm. The more I think about it the more I think the #8 is probably the way to go.

And if you find a place to get these on the SUPER cheap and in a nice finish, let me know. I just spent $25 on crimps but if it won't set me back a bunch I might buy both and see which one I like.

Hope that helped... I'm crap at explaining things sometimes. :p
 

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Satxer

Sr Member
Being I attached them to my suit, they don't sand too well now. And if I am gonna have to remove them to sand them, I may as well go with the zipper stops.

I've been making up little "mock" zipper stops, just to see what they would look like. The #5 is too small. The #10 is a hair long, but may still work. I can't find any place other than the site you listed for the 8's. Even looking at the "I have an army pic" from the trailer, they don't look too short. Which is why I think 10's may be ok. There are a bunch of 10s on Ebay, that you can get at a reasonable price, but is still gonna cost to buy a bunch.

I think I am gonna get the 10's and see where it goes. Considering the thickness I see on these things, I don't believe it is gonna be the full 5 in width. It may be more like 4.
 

Satxer

Sr Member
Will do. I may not look forward to doing this again, but at least it will be easier this time around.
 

Adjectival

New Member
I'm planning a Loki cosplay for myself. I love what you've been working on, you have done an amazing job. It's really inspiring!
Would you tell me a little bit more about how you created the armor pieces? They look super legit.
Thanks a bunch!
 

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Satxer

Sr Member
Would you tell me a little bit more about how you created the armor pieces? They look super legit.
Thanks a bunch!
The chest and the um...piece that goes on the strap for the shoulders, are from a garbage can, and the other pieces started from a bucket. From there, most of the pieces got a layer of bondo to start, all but the chest piece. After vigorous sanding, I took a Garage Sale sign, and cut out patterns to match the details on the armor, glued them into place, and followed by some bondo, and dremelling to finish some details, and coated with resin. The most difficult one to figure out would have to be the shoulder armor. As all of my screen shots from the trailers don't give a perfect shot of it, so I had to wing it. All I can tell is it has some sort of face.

As far as painting, I started with a coat of Antique Brass, which looks close to bronze, followed by a misting of metallic Brass. Which of course is followed by some misting of the flat black.
 

S0ren

New Member
Overall fantastic job *__*

A few points from a seamstress' point of view- press your seams! Notably the back ones. That should make it lie a bit more smoothly. Don't iron pleather directly as you could melt it, but use a t-shirt or something similar as a press cloth. Also use plenty of steam if you can since that tends to be rather effective.

Additionally, if at all possible you may want to take in your coat seams just slightly. It looks like you've got a lovely figure *ahem* but the coat makes you a bit boxy. It'd probably be difficult at this point due to the lining (and the fact that vinyl is a pain to fit in general) but it's something to keep in mind.

Great build so far :D If you need to rouse a Hawkeye army, I totally volunteer.
 

ARC

Member
Overall fantastic job *__*

A few points from a seamstress' point of view- press your seams! Notably the back ones. That should make it lie a bit more smoothly. Don't iron pleather directly as you could melt it, but use a t-shirt or something similar as a press cloth. Also use plenty of steam if you can since that tends to be rather effective.
This is a good point! Another option (and the one I usually go with because I dislike ironing and like the look) is topstitching. Just lay your seam allowance to one side and sew right along next to your seam. Then you know everything will lay flat forever. :)
 

Adjectival

New Member
The chest and the um...piece that goes on the strap for the shoulders, are from a garbage can, and the other pieces started from a bucket. From there, most of the pieces got a layer of bondo to start, all but the chest piece. After vigorous sanding, I took a Garage Sale sign, and cut out patterns to match the details on the armor, glued them into place, and followed by some bondo, and dremelling to finish some details, and coated with resin. The most difficult one to figure out would have to be the shoulder armor. As all of my screen shots from the trailers don't give a perfect shot of it, so I had to wing it. All I can tell is it has some sort of face.

As far as painting, I started with a coat of Antique Brass, which looks close to bronze, followed by a misting of metallic Brass. Which of course is followed by some misting of the flat black.
Wow! Lots of steps. You are dedicated!
I hope to try my hand at some plastic cutting/sanding/painting for the armor I'm going to make. I've worked with plastic a little bit from when I made my Portal Gun, but the process you described seems much more detailed and artistic.
Thanks for the tips!
 

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Satxer

Sr Member
Overall fantastic job *__*

A few points from a seamstress' point of view- press your seams! Notably the back ones. That should make it lie a bit more smoothly. Don't iron pleather directly as you could melt it, but use a t-shirt or something similar as a press cloth. Also use plenty of steam if you can since that tends to be rather effective.
Yeah, that is kinda on my "to do" list.

Additionally, if at all possible you may want to take in your coat seams just slightly. It looks like you've got a lovely figure *ahem* but the coat makes you a bit boxy. It'd probably be difficult at this point due to the lining (and the fact that vinyl is a pain to fit in general) but it's something to keep in mind.
That is where I may run into a complication. It has been on my mind as well, but the issue I forsee, is the "tabbards". In bringing the seam in on the sides, it will cause the tabbards to overlap a bit, making it look a little off. So, I have to still look at it, another thing I am trying to figure out.
 

Satxer

Sr Member
So, I got the zipper stops in, only to figure out that I didn't calculate right. So...I have more on the way. They look a lot better, and are a lot safer. I do think the #10s work just fine for it. I have to take a pic to post later.
 

ARC

Member
So, I got the zipper stops in, only to figure out that I didn't calculate right. So...I have more on the way. They look a lot better, and are a lot safer. I do think the #10s work just fine for it. I have to take a pic to post later.
Oooh, do share! I've only put about 10 of the crimps on the hem of my tunic to see how they'll look. I'll wait to see if I should order zip stops instead. Where did you buy them from, if you don't mind sharing...?
 

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Satxer

Sr Member
Yeah, I finally got done adding them to the outer tunic. My hand has a bunch of blisters because I had to use pliers to put over...god, 1500? Maybe more. I didn't space them exactly like the movie, because of how damn expensive they can get. I'd be looking at probably $200+ to do it spaced exactly like the movie. It looks great as is.
 

Jaina

Member
Yeah, I finally got done adding them to the outer tunic. My hand has a bunch of blisters because I had to use pliers to put over...god, 1500? Maybe more. I didn't space them exactly like the movie, because of how damn expensive they can get. I'd be looking at probably $200+ to do it spaced exactly like the movie. It looks great as is.
$200? Holy Odin's eyeball... yeah, that's some pretty intense business. Glad I'm doing the zipper trim instead now.

That being said, I do like how yours is turning out. Keep it up! :)
 

Satxer

Sr Member
I'll be honest, I spent about $150. That got me about...2400 of the pieces. First round at $90(1500 pcs), second round at $60(900 pcs). In turn I didn't need to buy as many for the second round. It took roughly 1600 to go around with the spacing I did. I just figured, if I spent roughly $200, it would of spaced them a little closer together. Now I just have to find out what to do with the other 800...

It looks better, doesn't snag on stuff like the others did, and makes me happy. The price we pay for this hobby.
 

Jaina

Member
That's true, this hobby doesn't run cheap. I take it the 5000 piece bag posted in my own Loki thread will definitely suffice then? In that case I may as well just buy the thing and deal with the blisters my hands will get. Gotta suffer for your art. ;)
 

Satxer

Sr Member
They were #10s, so yeah, 5000 would be more than enough. You could probably space them close to the movie spacing and still have plenty left over. It would be nice if they had a tool that just automatically dispenses them as you clamp them, haha!
 

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