What are some resources for learning how to draft patterns?

[corndog21]

I want to get serious about making my own costumes. I have previous sewing experience. I know how to take the basic measurements needed for the basic block. I've purchased tools like the french curve and the right angle. I can't find any resources that tell me how to create the block from absolute scratch with a thorough explanation as to why I need to "make a 2 inch line here." At least ones that don't want me to pay for lessons or software. I'm not opposed to paying a reasonable price for a decent resource. I just want to know what I'm doing, why I'm doing it, and that I'm doing it right.

Any advice or help would be very much appreciated.

 

[Sabs]

I have this book. I think it's pretty good. http://www.amazon.com/Practical-Gui...eywords=pattern+making+for+men+fashion+design

But there are others that are good as well.

If you have a dressform you can do most things by draping, which is basically putting loose fabric ( or thin paper) on the form and pining all the extra fabric flat. This extra is cut away and you have your pattern. But if you do it this way you have to remember to account for breathing room, so you can breath in the costume, which is why you add about 3 inches to body measurements around the chest.

Hope that helps

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Also, if you search for "bodice pattern from scratch" instead of "block" you will have better results on google and youtube, and the internet in general

 

[corndog21]

Thank That helped quite a bit. I'm going to take a look at that book and that search helped a lot.

Thanks again!

 

[fallimar]

As someone who just sort of... started making patterns with no real training, I got a lot out of just taking apart old clothes, too. That and playing with paper to see what shapes I could make to do skirts or robes or sleeves. Then you can start mixing up your shapes and come up with all kinds of cool things.

Of course, the books are golden, I'm starting a costume degree this year to bring my skills up to professional standards and they've recommended a whole heap of really cool books including:
Metric pattern cutting (basically all of them)
Pattern making for fashion design
The costume technician's handbook

 

[fallimar]

... link poop for some reason. second link should be this

and third link this

 

[corndog21]

Thanks! I just started trying my hand at pattern making a few weeks ago. It's been confusing, but the basic mechanics are starting to make sense. I was tired of trying to find similar patterns to the costumes I want to make.

Side note sharing time: I'm hoping to eventually succeed in creating Rey's alternate costume from the end of TFA.

 

[JPH]

have you tried a duct tape mannequin of yourself?
First tape some paper or Saran Wrap to yourself, then have a friend wrap that body part in duct tape. Cut it off, retape where you cut it, then stuff it with something soft, but space occupying. You now have an exact replica of yourself that you can use to make paper patterns. Use PVC pipe with couplers if you want a standing version.

I also drew a grid of 1 inch blocks on an erasable mat, hung it up, then took pics of me infront of it. Make sure the make is bigger than you and it will give you good reference on your size. Nothing beats a 3D model tho.

 

[Sabs]

But I mean, depending on if you want to make both male and female costumes, you should look at getting maybe male and female books? Patterns a a bit different when you have to account for boob-curve, and just the nature of tighter fitting clothes. There are a lot more darts, or rather, they are deeper and there position is more important. You'll see once you start reading about it, I'm sure.

 

[Sabs]

have you tried a duct tape mannequin of yourself?
First tape some paper or Saran Wrap to yourself, then have a friend wrap that body part in duct tape. Cut it off, retape where you cut it, then stuff it with something soft, but space occupying. You now have an exact replica of yourself that you can use to make paper patterns. Use PVC pipe with couplers if you want a standing version.

I also drew a grid of 1 inch blocks on an erasable mat, hung it up, then took pics of me infront of it. Make sure the make is bigger than you and it will give you good reference on your size. Nothing beats a 3D model tho.

Depending on your size, I don't think the duct tape mannequin is that cost effective. If you generally fall within normal sizes in clothing, you could just get a cheap dressform. It doesn't have to be the pro seamstress kind, the kind that they use in shops is fine as long as it has a foam and cloth (or at least cloth) layer on it. That way you can pin things to it. One of these should run you about $120 or less. Check your favourite online classifieds too.

My problem with the duct tape versions is that they're never perfect. usually lumpy and they might sag, which isn't good if you're trying to make a form fitting suit. Also it's really hard to pin fabric to it, and if you do then the tape makes the pins sticky and then they're pretty much garbage. This is what I found at least. Also a dressform comes on a stand, and you can always resell it. It has the added benefit of looking normal enough to have in any room of your house, and not make you look like you have some duct tape fetish. (not here to judge )

Sabs

 

[Will Vale]

Take this with a massive pinch of salt since I'm a complete beginner, but I found it was very helpful to make paper mock-ups - a wide roll of kitchen paper is a cheap option although it's hard to mark. Lots of fitting sessions too.

I used to make things out of paper when I was kid and have done some quick costumes for my daughter the same way in the last few years. It feels like some of that transfers to patterns. At least for costume rather than couture

Will

 

[corndog21]

I'm primarily focusing on making female costumes to start. I'll eventually learn to sew for men, but for now my boyfriend is focusing on making his own Mandalorian armor.

While I was learning to sew from patterns, I used tracing paper so I wouldn't have to cut up the patterns. I have a roll of brown all-purpose paper I've been using as of late. I've considered getting a dressform, but I thought I had to invest in a professional one to get any good use out of it. I think for now I'll just look for a cheaper one to start out on.

I've been testing different techniques for a bodice on my brown paper, which works pretty well. It seems everyone has a different way of doing it, but they are all pretty much derived from the same measurements. Chest, neck, boobs, waist, back, shoulders,etc. The darts are what are tripping me up at the moment.

 

[johnhenry13]

I'm a freelance clothing designer and I can give you some advice. You could learn the way I did, I went to school. You might check out any of the local community colleges for apparel design classes in general, and pattern drafting and draping classes specifically. There might also be small for profit schools that have a program and you could just sign up for pattern and draping classes. If you are self-motivated, you could learn from textbooks, but you might want to contact someone like me to advise you. Try playing with purchased patterns, redo them in marker paper, butcher paper or Swedish tracing paper, papers that you can draw and erase on, make tracings, cut and manipulate (yes, even those pesky darts!). As for dress forms, there is no substitute for a real dress form with collapsible shoulders. Look for a used one in your size on Craigslist, or on eBay. It's money well spent if you're serious. Also learn how to fit. You can learn in school or on your own, fitting other people's costumes. Hope this helps and good luck!