Weathering Dilema Solved!

[franz bolo]

I painted something with Krylon OD green. It looks great and is matte finished.
The problem is that any dark wash I add doesn't really show up that well.

What other techniques can I use to make lighter weathering like dust and dirt etc?

I was thinking of rubbing talcum powder on it but not sure what it would look like and don't want to mess it up.

thanks

FB

P.S. I just saw this in the prop forum. Does anyone know how the lighter weathering was done?

 

[ringa]

Have you tried dry brushing?

 

[franz bolo]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(ringa @ Mar 27 2007, 09:29 AM) [snapback]1449147[/snapback]</div>

Have you tried dry brushing?
[/b]

I dry brushed some rust color on and it looked good but blended into the green too much.

Are there any paint colors you could reccomend for dry brushing on the dark green surface?

thanks

FB

 

[Jedi Dade]

weathering is more art then science and often less is more... dry-brushing the rust IS the way to go and if it's not pronounced enough for you make a few more passes with the brush to add a bit more paint... or slightly lighten the paint color to add more contrast... the actual color of rust is not the necessarily the best color to use to represent it on the model... a lot of people use a more orange color to represent rust - it's WAY too orange to really BE rust but it does look good when its applied slightly. I know that sounds wonky - but its true - its the "more art then science" part of the equation. AS for the wash not sticking... Perhaps the wash is a bit too thin OR you need to wash multiple times. Usually I wash things in many stages letting the wash dry between them. I do that because I'm laways afraid I'll add too much wash and so I make my washes very thin and then dip many times, others have different techniques - again more art then science...

I guess my best advice is to practice on something that you don't cara about. I find that old 2-liter bottles with some greeblies randomely glued on for "surface detail" work well for practice...

Good luck,
Jedi Dade

 

[OhioAstromech]

What are you making?
It looks like it has a Cyclone tire from Mospeada Genesis Climber / Robotech the New Generation.

Weathering depends on what it is you are building.

If it's a weapon my favorite thing to use is powdered graphite.
It give the well handled look and the more you apply the better.

Scot

 

[franz bolo]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(OhioAstromech @ Mar 27 2007, 12:32 PM) [snapback]1449273[/snapback]</div>

What are you making?
It looks like it has a Cyclone tire from Mospeada Genesis Climber / Robotech the New Generation.
[/b]

The picture isn't mine, I used it because I liked the look they were getting. The guy wanted to know what the piece was and I think your right.

The toy I'm doing is a custom toy for a toy show. It's a cylindrical toy, kind of like a slug.

FB

 

[Gigatron]

What kind of weathering effect are you looking to replicate? Do you want to make it look like grime build up or like the top color has worn away, exposing an underlying color?

The type of weathering you want to replicate will determine the method you have to use. If you're doing a build up of grime, drybrushing really wont make any sense.

From what I've read, it sounds as if you're trying to add dirt into the recesses of whatever it is you're building. If that's the case, your best bet will to first do a wash of dark browns (burnt umber) and blacks with oil paints. Thin the oil paint with some turpenoid and use the capillary action of the paint to work it into the recesses. After a couple of washes, the high points will start to pop out. Then, if you want to do a build of grime, mix the paint with a bit of fuller's earth (available in the model railroad section of better stocked hobby stores). Make a paste-like consistency and work it into the recesses. This will look like dried, clotted grime. Then you can do a final top dusting with more fuller's earth; it comes in different shades so you can add some depth by mixing it up.

If you have a picture of what you're working on and can give us an idea of what you want to replicate or accomplish, I might be able to give more specific directions.

HTH.

-Fred

 

[franz bolo]

Thanks. I sent you a PM.

FB

 

[franz bolo]

Here is the finished piece. Thanks to all who gave me advice. Also special thanks to Gigatron for answering about 100 emails.

FB

 

[dragnink]

That looks great.

You know, you could save Gigatron some more emails by putting up a tutorial on how you achieved that look.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(franz bolo @ Apr 5 2007, 05:48 PM) [snapback]1455982[/snapback]</div>

Here is the finished piece. Thanks to all who gave me advice. Also special thanks to Gigatron for answering about 100 emails.

FB
[/b]

 

[Gigatron]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Meridian @ Apr 5 2007, 05:37 PM) [snapback]1456200[/snapback]</div>

That looks great.

You know, you could save Gigatron some more emails by putting up a tutorial on how you achieved that look.


[/b]

Glad to help, FB. Like I said, it looks spectacular :thumbsup

And that is a great idea, Meridian :lol

-Fred

 

[franz bolo]

I finally finished the last detail today, so I'll get my pics together and write something.

It was a great learning experience..

FB

 

[OdiWan72]

o.k., we´re waiting

GREAT WORK...BOTH of you

Markus

 

[Hollowdimension]

I would love to see a tutorial. Thats some good weathering.