Malaki Skywalker
Well-Known Member
Yep! It's all locked in with Adam.
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Interest Veracity Labs - THE V2 FX Build (DIY Kit)
- Thread starter BRRogers
- Start date
Hi guys there has been some action this week ; so for a quick update with mixed results:
Lewis has the hilts in hand-
However: some of the assembled parts received final treatment that we did not specify.
Unfortunately we will need to pursue remakes on a few items with stricter controls on finishing. This will probably take a couple more weeks.
The pommel
The process and overall delivered look of the pommel and machine marking, drilled d ring hole all needed re-assessment and re-work to help the factory deliver what we’re asking.
While we do this we are looking at making a removable pommel cap to swap the sound venting with a static cap. I want to make sure this is an option everyone is excited about for this FX offering.
This option makes more sense to us for ease of install and use between static display and FX operation.
The emitter nipple. Unfortunately everything that could be chamfered was- it needs to be redone.
The main body. The grub screw for the pommel attachment wasn't just chamfered but over chamfered. It will need to be remade without any chamfer as we specified.
The box foam:
Very squishy and flimsy- we don’t know why it was switched from the other foam. We need to cut higher quality foam for premium quality and protection.
On a related note: The UK machinist problem is nearly resolved but not fully…
The parts that they made we determined were all completely out of spec and could not be used.
namely the mystery chunks are being remade and should arrive Thursday. They were stainless and tapped incorrectly.
I am also wanting the cone knobs to be remade as the pressure used for the knurling was not strong enough to match the correct Michell knobs. It may also require a softer aluminum alloy so we are looking to do that.
Trooper Trent is nearly finished producing all the stencils and gaffer adapters.
Roman Props has a new offering of Folmer clamps that we are looking to use in addition to his low carbon steel lever bars.
The WannaWanga bars were produced in stainless steel so we are getting those replaced.
Like I said, mixed update here.
Chambers are being quoted again without stainless steel. We are looking at nickel plated carbon steel to offset the price of Stainless which seems to have skyrocketed… or so we are told. (Ironic with our carbon steel specified parts being consistently made with stainless steel)
Lewis has the hilts in hand-
However: some of the assembled parts received final treatment that we did not specify.
Unfortunately we will need to pursue remakes on a few items with stricter controls on finishing. This will probably take a couple more weeks.
The pommel
The process and overall delivered look of the pommel and machine marking, drilled d ring hole all needed re-assessment and re-work to help the factory deliver what we’re asking.
While we do this we are looking at making a removable pommel cap to swap the sound venting with a static cap. I want to make sure this is an option everyone is excited about for this FX offering.
This option makes more sense to us for ease of install and use between static display and FX operation.
The emitter nipple. Unfortunately everything that could be chamfered was- it needs to be redone.
The main body. The grub screw for the pommel attachment wasn't just chamfered but over chamfered. It will need to be remade without any chamfer as we specified.
The box foam:
Very squishy and flimsy- we don’t know why it was switched from the other foam. We need to cut higher quality foam for premium quality and protection.
On a related note: The UK machinist problem is nearly resolved but not fully…
The parts that they made we determined were all completely out of spec and could not be used.
namely the mystery chunks are being remade and should arrive Thursday. They were stainless and tapped incorrectly.
I am also wanting the cone knobs to be remade as the pressure used for the knurling was not strong enough to match the correct Michell knobs. It may also require a softer aluminum alloy so we are looking to do that.
Trooper Trent is nearly finished producing all the stencils and gaffer adapters.
Roman Props has a new offering of Folmer clamps that we are looking to use in addition to his low carbon steel lever bars.
The WannaWanga bars were produced in stainless steel so we are getting those replaced.
Like I said, mixed update here.
Chambers are being quoted again without stainless steel. We are looking at nickel plated carbon steel to offset the price of Stainless which seems to have skyrocketed… or so we are told. (Ironic with our carbon steel specified parts being consistently made with stainless steel)
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Stencils and gaffer tape adapters are done. I'm just cutting them out individually from the large sheet so they can be folded and shipped out.
Any updates as to when the revised parts will come in?
Are these stencils able to take heat? Curious about power coating over them.
I don’t think I would I’ve had them shrink in the hot sun
No these are specifically paint masking stencils. You can’t get that level of detail with powder cost and the heat would melt the vinyl.
Small positive update:
Clamp cards are in production ; there is a Chinese National holiday so we anticipate they will be ready to ship next week to Brad/ Slothfurnace…
The new chunks are the mild steel, (according to Malaki Skywalker are rusting appropriately) and are literally in hand. The model was updated to automatically remove the flange, which we know to be absent on the V2 along with rusting sides.
(The two holes on the side are mounting points for machining, and will not be visible once assembled)
Trent’s stencils and gaffer adapters shipped/arrived
The other parts needing to be re-machined,
Will require a small time extension though as we opted to revise them. This also incurs a cost but I, in particular felt it was necessary.
While assessing the model features needing to be re machined for accuracy- I did stumble across an accuracy feature that has, I believe, largely been missed with replicas. It is a subtle, but very sensible detail we have opted to include.
By doing so- it also removes the possibility of using the clamp card as a switch. I’ll get into why at a later date…
As the clamp card is no longer viable the next solution to keep it underneath the clamp, is making them accessible via the Graflex tab location.
There will be two on each side in the lower position.
(The threading for the crystal chamber is too low to do a rocker bar for one side)
A spring washer will allow a tactile actuation on the chassis underneath while also allowing a *removable* lower chassis, which was not possible before.
For those who do not want this feature for static display, the tab will simply be able to be removed. I recommend aluminum tape in its place.
The pommel has also been updated.
We’ve opted to make a removable cap so that swapping between venting is easy for the user. It is still a hidden vented cap along with the static version.
The mill mark has also been adjusted- I spent some time at my mill and arrived at a different conclusion for accuracy by recreating the appearance. This, after being dissatisfied with the way the milling mark was looking on the prototype - followed by the production pieces.
I do need to print a body and verify the tab placement is exact- and works across multiple clamps. However, the clamp being provided (The Roman Props new Folmer, per Halliwax’ glowing recommendation) is what we are referencing primarily.
I understand that the delay is frustrating, but getting this right the first (and potentially only- time we do this) is very important to us.
Here are some more renders of the adjustments.
Clamp cards are in production ; there is a Chinese National holiday so we anticipate they will be ready to ship next week to Brad/ Slothfurnace…
The new chunks are the mild steel, (according to Malaki Skywalker are rusting appropriately) and are literally in hand. The model was updated to automatically remove the flange, which we know to be absent on the V2 along with rusting sides.
(The two holes on the side are mounting points for machining, and will not be visible once assembled)
Trent’s stencils and gaffer adapters shipped/arrived
The other parts needing to be re-machined,
Will require a small time extension though as we opted to revise them. This also incurs a cost but I, in particular felt it was necessary.
While assessing the model features needing to be re machined for accuracy- I did stumble across an accuracy feature that has, I believe, largely been missed with replicas. It is a subtle, but very sensible detail we have opted to include.
By doing so- it also removes the possibility of using the clamp card as a switch. I’ll get into why at a later date…
As the clamp card is no longer viable the next solution to keep it underneath the clamp, is making them accessible via the Graflex tab location.
There will be two on each side in the lower position.
(The threading for the crystal chamber is too low to do a rocker bar for one side)
A spring washer will allow a tactile actuation on the chassis underneath while also allowing a *removable* lower chassis, which was not possible before.
For those who do not want this feature for static display, the tab will simply be able to be removed. I recommend aluminum tape in its place.
The pommel has also been updated.
We’ve opted to make a removable cap so that swapping between venting is easy for the user. It is still a hidden vented cap along with the static version.
The mill mark has also been adjusted- I spent some time at my mill and arrived at a different conclusion for accuracy by recreating the appearance. This, after being dissatisfied with the way the milling mark was looking on the prototype - followed by the production pieces.
I do need to print a body and verify the tab placement is exact- and works across multiple clamps. However, the clamp being provided (The Roman Props new Folmer, per Halliwax’ glowing recommendation) is what we are referencing primarily.
I understand that the delay is frustrating, but getting this right the first (and potentially only- time we do this) is very important to us.
Here are some more renders of the adjustments.
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BatteryAcid
New Member
So I assume we’re looking at another couple week delay? If I’m understanding correctly the new plungers will come through the lower 2 rectangular holes in the clamp? If so is the plan for them to sit flush with the clamp once it’s installed or protrude slightly?
At least, we just finished the redesign so I need to confirm with a printed prototype. It will then go back to TXQ for machining which will then require another couple weeks. I won’t be able to provide a solid date right now.
Yes, new plungers come through the bottom two holes. It is designed so that they should sit flush with the provided clamp. If they need to be lower by preference it should be simple to file them shorter.
Also to clarify- the design of the tab allows 2-3 mm of adjustability up-down-left-right in the event that the clamp hole locations do have any variance
Malaki Skywalker
Well-Known Member
BatteryAcid
New Member
Cool, what was the revision that made the clamp no longer viable as switches out of curiosity??
Unless that’s like, based on not publicly available info
Thanks very much for the answer, apologies if it came across as ignorant! I've never powder coated before, but my work has a powder coating set up and I was wondering if this would be a good application for it.
I’ll be a bit coy-
The issue is notable in the public reference photos- once you see it… there is a significant difference between the top of the clamp and the bottom. Something has to account for that
BatteryAcid
New Member
Well now I can see it in the updated model lmaoI’ll be a bit coy-
The issue is notable in the public reference photos- once you see it… there is a significant difference between the top of the clamp and the bottom. Something has to account for that
not at all! We've discussed it on the boards before as it does sound like a good idea at first. Powder coating, while very durable, has a noticeable thickness and doesn't work well with any kind of detailed stencils at all. The real prop is just chipped paint, and spray paint is plenty durable, even with frequent handling.
Chiming in here. The preorders account for about 3/4 of the production batch being made, so there is a _small_ number that will be available for sale once previous preorders are honored.
What happens beyond that is being discussed.
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