Various Mandalorian Paint Work

[Millennial Ren]

do you paint the ears with the lighter silver color or just all alumaluster?

is that burnt umber for the weathering? what colors are u willing to divulge now that ur retired??? pleaseeee share ur wisdom. ur work is amazing.

 

[Stal]

Hello,

I am in need of help too !
Your work is truly amazing and since you don’t take anymore commission for now, I think I will give it a try by myself.

I recently got my EFX helmet (after months of fighting with them), but sadly it came badly damaged. See below...



I must say I am a bit depressed. No way I keep it like that but sadly there are 0 chances for me to get any exchange nor refund since I am living overseas...

So I am slowly studiying each step in order to try what you have perfectly done with the EFX ones in this thread. And any help would be really appreciated.

 

[LordHeadass]

I am so shocked they sent it to you in that condition, I am truly sorry that you received your helmet in that condition

 

[Mr Mold Maker]

do you paint the ears with the lighter silver color or just all alumaluster?

is that burnt umber for the weathering? what colors are u willing to divulge now that ur retired??? pleaseeee share ur wisdom. ur work is amazing.

The whole helmet is painted with Alumaluster, the main helmet is around 60% opacity and the highlights, the ears and vent, are at 100% opacity.

Retirement was short, I am coming back very soon. But I am happy to share the colors, and have a few times already. I use Raw Umber, Black, and this isn’t on the real helmets as far as I’m aware but I add a little Van Dyke Brown as well. All Winsor & Newton Winton oil paints.

 

[Mr Mold Maker]

Hello,

I am in need of help too !
Your work is truly amazing and since you don’t take anymore commission for now, I think I will give it a try by myself.

I recently got my EFX helmet (after months of fighting with them), but sadly it came badly damaged. See below...

View attachment 1364777 View attachment 1364778

I must say I am a bit depressed. No way I keep it like that but sadly there are 0 chances for me to get any exchange nor refund since I am living overseas...

So I am slowly studiying each step in order to try what you have perfectly done with the EFX ones in this thread. And any help would be really appreciated.

I am sorry to hear that. I do not take EFX helmets because they seem especially prone to damage, from scrapes to Random cracking just appearing.

I’ve discussed my methods many times over various threads, perhaps even in this one. But I will summarize it again just so I can point folks to this post.

Black primer. I use Duplicolor’s Hot Rod Black sandable primer.

2K clear gloss. This is a catalyzed urethane clear coat. I recommend Matrix brand because you can get it in a pint sized kit. If you do not have an HVLP Gun, you can also get it in a can through Spraymax. This goes over the black primer and should give you a nice glass smooth gloss black base. This is the most important step, your gloss black base needs to be flawless. Any and every imperfection will be amplified by the application of the chrome.

Alumaluster. I use an Iwata LPH50 to apply. You’re aiming for about 60% opacity. The real helmets are a lot darker than people think, but I’ve found that bringing it up to around 60% is a nice middle ground.

2K clear again to seal. This is the same product that you used over the black primer. Go back a few pages and there will be a write up on clear coating.

Finally, the upper cheeks get taped off and matted down. I’ve heard a few different things for this, from Omni metallic grey with a little bit of matte clear, to very lightly misted black, etc. I’ve found the easiest way to replicate the look is with krylon satin crystal clear. Just tape the area off and give it a light misting of the Krylon.

From there it is just weathering, colors mentioned above.

I hope this helps a little. For the EFX, I was able to strip it down completely with lacquer thinner, but I wouldn’t recommend it. The helmet doesn’t have super thick clear coats like the Anovos, you can just sand the helmet well, fix any damaged areas and give it a good clean and primer and you’d be good to start the painting process.

 

[Millennial Ren]

Thank you. That really helps a ton!!!!! im trying to get an HVLP but i dont have room for a bigger compressor. Im currently running just harder/steenbeck and iwata airbrushes.

 

[Stal]

I am sorry to hear that. I do not take EFX helmets because they seem especially prone to damage, from scrapes to Random cracking just appearing.

I’ve discussed my methods many times over various threads, perhaps even in this one. But I will summarize it again just so I can point folks to this post.

Black primer. I use Duplicolor’s Hot Rod Black sandable primer.

2K clear gloss. This is a catalyzed urethane clear coat. I recommend Matrix brand because you can get it in a pint sized kit. If you do not have an HVLP Gun, you can also get it in a can through Spraymax. This goes over the black primer and should give you a nice glass smooth gloss black base. This is the most important step, your gloss black base needs to be flawless. Any and every imperfection will be amplified by the application of the chrome.

Alumaluster. I use an Iwata LPH50 to apply. You’re aiming for about 60% opacity. The real helmets are a lot darker than people think, but I’ve found that bringing it up to around 60% is a nice middle ground.

2K clear again to seal. This is the same product that you used over the black primer. Go back a few pages and there will be a write up on clear coating.

Finally, the upper cheeks get taped off and matted down. I’ve heard a few different things for this, from Omni metallic grey with a little bit of matte clear, to very lightly misted black, etc. I’ve found the easiest way to replicate the look is with krylon satin crystal clear. Just tape the area off and give it a light misting of the Krylon.

From there it is just weathering, colors mentioned above.

I hope this helps a little. For the EFX, I was able to strip it down completely with lacquer thinner, but I wouldn’t recommend it. The helmet doesn’t have super thick clear coats like the Anovos, you can just sand the helmet well, fix any damaged areas and give it a good clean and primer and you’d be good to start the painting process.

A big thanks to you for this write up
I will try your method on some spare stuff I have before trying on a full helmet. What’s the average quantity of Alumaluster needed for a complete helmet ?

As for my EFX helmet, after thinking a bit about it, I will try to carrefully repair it at first.

 

[Mr Mold Maker]

4 oz is the smallest size they sell, and it is enough to do quite a few helmets and tests. I measured it at one point and it was something like 25ml out of an airbrush.

A big thanks to you for this write up
I will try your method on some spare stuff I have before trying on a full helmet. What’s the average quantity of Alumaluster needed for a complete helmet ?

As for my EFX helmet, after thinking a bit about it, I will try to carrefully repair it at first.

 

[JOATRASH FX]

As always, absolutely gorgeous metal paintwork!

I'm still waiting to have time to dig into the pint of Alumaluster that I bought earlier this year. (I need a really good project to justify the cost on. For applications where the metal will be mostly hidden, it's hard to justify the expense of Aluma here in Europe, and for 'true' nickel/chrome-like finishes on small areas I still kinda prefer the Molotow, which is actually more expensive than Aluma.)

But here's a question for you in regards to masking. I've laid down a lot of both Alclad and Molotow over the last few years, and all the time, once the clear goes on, it's almost impossible to mask without the clear peeling off when the tape is removed, thus ruining everything. One thing you touched on earlier about the 2K clear, is the need to use urethane, because it doesn't easily dissolve the metallic layer the way some other solvent-based paints will. (Same reason that water-based urethanes work, though they tend to be 'rubbery' and hard to buff or sand if needed.) But this also means that it doesn't bond as well with the underlying layer, hence being prone to peeling easier. (Note: I use House of Kolor's UC35 urethane clear and, of course, masking tape for sensitive surfaces.)

I suspect that in my case, maybe I need to lay down more layers, for a thicker clear finish. (I usually prefer to keep it very thin to keep the 'bare metal' look.) Or maybe my batch of hardener is too old or bad.

Would love to hear your thoughts on this!

 

[PoopaPapaPalps]

I've yet to move up to urethane clears through the airbrush but how much does one need? It's not a thing you want to lay a whole sopping wet layer of right? It would just run along the edges, no?

 

[HackinSpock]

I've yet to move up to urethane clears through the airbrush but how much does one need? It's not a thing you want to lay a whole sopping wet layer of right? It would just run along the edges, no?

I believe post #39 will answer your question.

 

[Mr Mold Maker]

As always, absolutely gorgeous metal paintwork!

I'm still waiting to have time to dig into the pint of Alumaluster that I bought earlier this year. (I need a really good project to justify the cost on. For applications where the metal will be mostly hidden, it's hard to justify the expense of Aluma here in Europe, and for 'true' nickel/chrome-like finishes on small areas I still kinda prefer the Molotow, which is actually more expensive than Aluma.)

But here's a question for you in regards to masking. I've laid down a lot of both Alclad and Molotow over the last few years, and all the time, once the clear goes on, it's almost impossible to mask without the clear peeling off when the tape is removed, thus ruining everything. One thing you touched on earlier about the 2K clear, is the need to use urethane, because it doesn't easily dissolve the metallic layer the way some other solvent-based paints will. (Same reason that water-based urethanes work, though they tend to be 'rubbery' and hard to buff or sand if needed.) But this also means that it doesn't bond as well with the underlying layer, hence being prone to peeling easier. (Note: I use House of Kolor's UC35 urethane clear and, of course, masking tape for sensitive surfaces.)

I suspect that in my case, maybe I need to lay down more layers, for a thicker clear finish. (I usually prefer to keep it very thin to keep the 'bare metal' look.) Or maybe my batch of hardener is too old or bad.

Would love to hear your thoughts on this!

I tend to mask directly over the chrome if I need to do secondary colors, and then clear coat everything at the end.

However, I have masked over urethane clear coated chrome many times and never experienced lifting. On these Mando helmets for example, the cheeks get matted out. This is done over top of the 2K clear for obvious reasons. I mask with Tamiya and Frog tape, and like I said, over 30 helmets deep at the moment, it has never been an issue.

As for clear thickness, I use a few dust coats first to settle the chrome, but only one wet coat to seal. I do keep it very thin. I wish I could offer more insight but it’s just not an issue I’ve had to problem solve

 

[Mr Mold Maker]

I've yet to move up to urethane clears through the airbrush but how much does one need? It's not a thing you want to lay a whole sopping wet layer of right? It would just run along the edges, no?

An airbrush wouldn’t be the best tool to use with these clears unless you are clearing a very small area. If it’s bigger than a pistol, you’d want an HVLP or LVLP spray gun. You need to be able to get a full wet coat down on the helmet in one even pass. You go right up until it wets out, but stop before it drips or pools.

An airbrush just doesn’t cover enough, you’d end up with pretty bad striping and/or orange peel.

 

[Mr Mold Maker]

Here is a quick pic of an Anovos I recently repainted. I absolutely love the look of these, and hopefully one of these days I’ll pick one up myself.

I thought I could make some changes to my workhop and continue them indefinitely but it just is not possible. You may see a few more photos of finished helmets as I work through my commitments, but once those are done I’m fully retired. I will not take any more Din helmets nor will I take Beskar armor. However I do still intend to take the Pre-Beskar armor as well as pretty much anything else from the show.



Speaking of, I should have some photos to share in the near future as I begin work on Bo-Katan’s helmet. Lots of folks are all racing to get out their files and casts, and I’m already committed to painting three Prototype helmets as well as some armor. If that interests you keep an eye out!

 

[Mr Mold Maker]

Speaking of Bo-Katan, here is a half scale (45% actually) paint tester that I did for her helmet.

I wanted to check the colors, and also my first ever set of stencils. Colors were all custom mixed Tamiya. I’m very happy but I do want to tweak the main blue just a tad. The stencils are the result of jumping into Inkscape for the first time, and buying a Cricut Maker. It has been a huge learning experience in all aspects, but now that I’ve seen how they lay down I can tweak them to be even more accurate. They should be perfect by the time I get to the Lifesize.

When I do the Lifesize it will have more accurate chipping as well, it’s quite hard to do on such a small scale.

 

[Krieger]

Speaking of Bo-Katan, here is a half scale (45% actually) paint tester that I did for her helmet.

I wanted to check the colors, and also my first ever set of stencils. Colors were all custom mixed Tamiya. I’m very happy but I do want to tweak the main blue just a tad. The stencils are the result of jumping into Inkscape for the first time, and buying a Cricut Maker. It has been a huge learning experience in all aspects, but now that I’ve seen how they lay down I can tweak them to be even more accurate. They should be perfect by the time I get to the Lifesize.

When I do the Lifesize it will have more accurate chipping as well, it’s quite hard to do on such a small scale.

Mr Mold Maker, this is frakin great! I know my description of your custom color is wrong, but I call it ‘mando duty blue’ lol - your work is awesome.

 

[LordHeadass]

That looks really good! Do you have the alumaluster there for a size comparison?

 

[Mr Mold Maker]

That looks really good! Do you have the alumaluster there for a size comparison?

Yep, just a good idea of scale. That was printed at 45%.

In other news, I am working on a Lifesize Din Djarin for myself. Episode 1 look, pre-Beskar. He needs a pistol of course, so I grabbed Outerrim Workshops file off Etsy. This will just be a holster filler, but I figured I may as well have a little fun with it. I overdid the muzzle, that will be repainted.

I plan to print another soon and will take more care in the finishing. I’ll have finished photos of this as soon as some paint comes in for the grips.

I will absolutely be sharing progress as it happens on the Lifesize so keep an eye on this thread if you’re interested folks. I’ll be working with Danny Redman for the armor parts, and painting them myself. Debra Di Meo for the belt and bandolier. Sky costumes soft parts that I will modify. The helmet is an EFX I painted (for now.) And most other things I’ll be putting together myself.

 

[tennantlim]

Can't wait to see your complete costume!

 

[Mr Mold Maker]

A few cellphone pics of the finished “holster filler” blaster. I have a video on my Instagram as well that shows it better.

Again, the file is from OuterRimWorkshop on Etsy, and I can’t say enough good things about it. It was such a pleasure working on this blaster. It printed very well, and fit together wonderfully. I did not personally go for the functioning trigger and hammer, but you certainly can. It has been designed expertly.

Myself and another very talented maker have been working with OuterRim to make a few accuracy improvements as well so keep an eye out for that. If you need a blaster file, this is the one to get folks, I can’t express that enough.