I am about start my venture into building a Vacuformer and was curious to know what kind of plastic should be used and about how much will a sheet cost.
Vacforming will depend on the type of machine you have and its vacuum and heating power. Most homebuilt machines using a standard shop vac are capable of pulling material up to .1" but passing .125" you start to lose a lot of definition.
I have this guy, that I made from heating elements out of an old toaster oven. Vacuum is supplied by a 2hp shop vac. I've done PET plastic and styrene with it up to .1" and its done pretty well for such a little budget former.
Styrene, .1"
PET, .118"
With bigger machines, you can pull acrylic, ABS, kydex, as well as thicker materials. I just finished a larger vacformer with a dedicated pump and tank, and hopefully I'll be able to step up to those materials with this beast.
I think that would probably work. As long as it's Plexiglass/Acrylic, I can't speak for Lexan/Polycarbonate. Just make sure you heat it evenly until you can see it sag, then go for it.
I think that would probably work. As long as it's Plexiglass/Acrylic, I can't speak for Lexan/Polycarbonate. Just make sure you heat it evenly until you can see it sag, then go for it.
Plexiglass/Lexan/polycarbonate/acrylic - they all have a tendency to absorb moisture from the air. These plastics must be dry or boiling will occur before the sheet is ready to form. Most shops use a drying oven which cycles hot air over the plastic and the moisture is absorbed by desiccant.
Styrene in the .060" range is a good plastic to start with - cheap and no boiling. Once you're comfortable with that, move up to ABS (not as cheap and they do absorb moisture over time, but much more durable), and if clear plastics need to be formed, PETG is much easier to work with than Acrylics or Polycarbonates.
A friend and I tried to vacuform giant 4x6 foot sheets of clear Lexan a few years ago and little bubbles appeared in the material. This effect was lessened with less heating.