This top one was a real nurfherder! But with some added pennies to give it some extra level support it came out pretty good. This is a Stembridge build and I’m using the ROTJ release date for the serial number..
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This is mostly an experiment.

I wanted to see if I could create a Stembridge greeblie with a screw that holds it in place that could also be covered. To my surprise it works pretty well..

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Really stelar work, a real pursuer of perfection.

I wanted to ask if when moving the top assembly slightly forward the existing hammer can be modified, or if a whole new one is needed, other than the shape of the top hammer itself, I couldn’t spot the difference in the business end that attaches to the body itself.
 
Really stelar work, a real pursuer of perfection.

I wanted to ask if when moving the top assembly slightly forward the existing hammer can be modified, or if a whole new one is needed, other than the shape of the top hammer itself, I couldn’t spot the difference in the business end that attaches to the body itself.
Thanks Woody!

No you don’t need a whole new hammer. The denix hammer will work. I just replace the denix hammer when I want to increase the details/accuracy is all. But it’s not always needed as these pics below show. This is a Bespin and a (left sided) ANH Hero build. Each has the top slide forward while still using the denix hammer itself,,
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For reference here are 3 denix Mausers Bespin builds. One denix unmodified, One denix fully modified and the 3rd is the one pictured above... Partially modified. I also did a video trying to breakdown each of these in more detail. I’ll post that here as well as it might be helpful..
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My own personal opinion is this.. if you can only change one (trigger or hammer) on the denix. Definitely go for the trigger. It IMHO really adds that extra detail the denix is lacking..
 
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Nice! (y)

But now I'm wondering about the actual real-world Mauser that had that same serial number - I wonder what sort of action it might have seen and if it even still exists... :unsure:
You built that ROTJ Stembridge MGC replica using the real parts that where left over from Bapty correct?! Oh man that must have been fun!! Did you take any other pictures other than the two of each side? Any up close that you can share?? :love:
 
My understanding is that the actual records have been lost, so it's not possible to pin down a precise date of manufacture for a specific serial number, but serial number ranges can be attributed to a certain year or years.
 
You built that ROTJ Stembridge MGC replica using the real parts that where left over from Bapty correct?! Oh man that must have been fun!! Did you take any other pictures other than the two of each side? Any up close that you can share?? :love:
Yeah, that was me. It was pretty interesting to see how the parts had been made. I don't want to say "crude," because skill was obviously involved, but maybe "casually-made" would be a better phrase. The grooves and fluting on the flash hider were obviously just eyeballed and the spacing was far from precise.
 
Yeah, that was me. It was pretty interesting to see how the parts had been made. I don't want to say "crude," because skill was obviously involved, but maybe "casually-made" would be a better phrase. The grooves and fluting on the flash hider were obviously just eyeballed and the spacing was far from precise.
That’s so bloody awesome to have had those in your hand. As you may or may not know I've dissected this prop pretty obsessively :rolleyes:.. from screen shots to the limited pics of the prop itself . Even studied the build u did. I think they made all these flash hiders by hand and each are unique to themselves no?

Everyone seems to be different in the details. For the film prop itself I think they choose the one FH that was most symmetrical? At least that’s what I’ve gathered. Even the mount itself on the film prop isn’t fully the same as the one you built I don’t think? It’s crazy to think but I guess in someways it makes sense. They were just knocking them out as needed..
 
Another small step in the GK build is the completion of the m9 flash hider. A few details I really wanted to include in the design was the spacer and the welding details seen on a real m9 FH. Those welding details were added after it was printed with JB Weld Steelstik. At least I assumed its from welding but either way I wanted to duplicate it as much as possible..
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I think they made all these flash hiders by hand and each are unique to themselves no?
I believe so, yes.

For the film prop itself I think they choose the one FH that was most symmetrical?
Honestly, I doubt they even worried about it - there would have been no reason (or time, probably) for such scrutiny. This was before ultra high-def media and screen capping technology - back then you could get away with a lot on film.
 
Honestly, I doubt they even worried about it - there would have been no reason (or time, probably) for such scrutiny. This was before ultra high-def media and screen capping technology - back then you could get away with a lot on film.
Very true. If they did we wouldn’t have so many dl-44 variants. Good with the bad!
 
It’s really starting to take form and this is always the most exciting part of building with new designs. Slowing seeing it come together..
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Upgrade the compac saddle. Thank you to scottjua for sharing this info. It definitely adds a nice touch. I was toying with the idea of using the SW release date as the serial number until Scott shared what he knew. Very much appreciated :)
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