DL-44 FDM c96 & MGC replicas…
- Thread starter chubsANDdoggers
- Start date
Thank you! 
Blaster looks great!
And sorry, this just made me laugh...
Sean
And sorry, this just made me laugh...
Sean
Im always changing that title so to be fare I may have changed it afterwards
I think I have u one better.. my OCD has me changing it every time I do a new post
Lol ya! Instagram took my blaster page down because someone flagged it as offensive. Someone else created a duplicate page using my old avatar and since it’s not my face, Instagram won’t take it down. Oh well.. new beginning
goelankush1
New Member
I've been spending the better part of a year designing and then redesigning these parts to get them to where I have them today.
That sounds very familiar as I’ve typed those exact words myself. Let’s see what you have?
Also why do I have a strange feeling you and this person know each other??
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Because “guns”?? Man, wow. Pew pew! Instagram is a pain anyway, I miss the old internet.Lol ya! Instagram took my blaster page down because someone flagged it as offensive. Someone else created a duplicate page using my old avatar and since it’s not my face, Instagram won’t take it down. Oh well.. new beginning
Honestly don’t really know the reason. They kind of suck at communication. This is the last pic I posted that got me in trouble apparently. But less social media the better anyhow
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U want to hear what’s even worse.. all the white prints are pretty much garbage. I’ve been testing different materials to see what works and what doesn’t. Trial and error.. lots of unusable prints in this picture
Added some new details to upgrade the Compac saddle for my Greedo Killer scope replica..
First I want to thank Bradberry00 for helping me with getting all my numbers in line and working out some of these details with the scope itself. For this new serial number I did reach out to scottjua and he was kind enough to share a pic that’s a little more clear than this one that’s commonly known below. Originally I was on the fence as the other number I was toying with was “52577”. I also added the detail that’s found on the other side of a Compac scope saddle as well..
Here is the naked saddle prior to painting. I added some graphite power so you can actually see the added details..
Next I’ll share my process on how I went about finishing it. I’m sure for most it’s pretty obvious but regardless this is what I did..
First up I used some 400 grain sandpaper to lessen the print lines. They are very minor to begin with so it doesn’t take much and I definitely wouldn’t used anything stronger as you’d risk losing these details. Also I would not use primer either. It’s to thick I believe and it could easily clog up the engraving.
After I sand it I use a matte black in place of a primer. Sand it again with 400 grain. Then another coat of matte black, then some silver paint once its dired. Finish with satan black before adding the yellow acrylic paint for the front and some grey acrylic for the back. Next time I might use less base paint as I lost some of the details on the “Japan” with one to many layers of paint I believe.
I generally paint outside and as a rule of thumb I try to only paint when the sun is shining and it’s 65 or warmer. Helps keep these clogging issues from happening I find. Today was an overcast and only in the 50s but I wanted to get this done to show it off for some people who will be finishing their own shortly. So that may have played a role in how it turned out as well..
For the lettering paint details I simply applied it with one finger while rubbing it off with the another. Then using a damp paper towel to clean it up. Simply repeat the process until it’s how you want it. I personally won’t use any kind of rubbing alcohol as it could damage the satan black coat..
Again I’m sure there are many ways to accomplish this look but this is how I approached it myself. It came out pretty good I believe..
First I want to thank Bradberry00 for helping me with getting all my numbers in line and working out some of these details with the scope itself. For this new serial number I did reach out to scottjua and he was kind enough to share a pic that’s a little more clear than this one that’s commonly known below. Originally I was on the fence as the other number I was toying with was “52577”. I also added the detail that’s found on the other side of a Compac scope saddle as well..
Next I’ll share my process on how I went about finishing it. I’m sure for most it’s pretty obvious but regardless this is what I did..
First up I used some 400 grain sandpaper to lessen the print lines. They are very minor to begin with so it doesn’t take much and I definitely wouldn’t used anything stronger as you’d risk losing these details. Also I would not use primer either. It’s to thick I believe and it could easily clog up the engraving.
After I sand it I use a matte black in place of a primer. Sand it again with 400 grain. Then another coat of matte black, then some silver paint once its dired. Finish with satan black before adding the yellow acrylic paint for the front and some grey acrylic for the back. Next time I might use less base paint as I lost some of the details on the “Japan” with one to many layers of paint I believe.
I generally paint outside and as a rule of thumb I try to only paint when the sun is shining and it’s 65 or warmer. Helps keep these clogging issues from happening I find. Today was an overcast and only in the 50s but I wanted to get this done to show it off for some people who will be finishing their own shortly. So that may have played a role in how it turned out as well..
For the lettering paint details I simply applied it with one finger while rubbing it off with the another. Then using a damp paper towel to clean it up. Simply repeat the process until it’s how you want it. I personally won’t use any kind of rubbing alcohol as it could damage the satan black coat..
Again I’m sure there are many ways to accomplish this look but this is how I approached it myself. It came out pretty good I believe..
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Here’s something fun and new I recently started working on. I wanted to see if MJF prints could be strong enough to create all the needed parts to hold a holster rig. I used an old “Costume Base” rig and subbed in these part I designed up.
They are not fully accurate but before I deep drived I wanted to make sure everything would work. These prints have no problem getting the job done which is pretty cool to see..
They are not fully accurate but before I deep drived I wanted to make sure everything would work. These prints have no problem getting the job done which is pretty cool to see..
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