TVA TemPad Loki Series Prop

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Ryan The Mast

Member
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Has anyone printed any Stl's on any Resin printers? like Anycubic, elegoo, voxelab.

did anyone have any problems with the size of it printing,

thanks
Yes indeed to- both questions,
20210808_213644_HDR.jpg
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Mono X settings.png


I have done a lot of test printing on both Resin and FDM machines trying to get this right for my design,
The readily available "Budget" resin printers generally suck at dimensional accuracy out of the box unfortunately. Most people never realize this because they are usually just using them to print mini figures, costume pieces, and desk ornaments that never need to fit together or deal with accuracy all that much. To further complicate things your slicer, its settings, part orientation, support placement, your machine, how you clean and cure your parts, and your resin can all change how accurate things come out. So you need to calibrate everything carefully to make sure it all works for your set up.

For my resin tests I was working with a Anycubic Mono X, using Sira Tech Fast abs like grey resin, It's a newer machine and a good resin I set it up per manufacture, community, and slicer recommendations. Despite all this I found that many of my parts had up to a .5mm increase on all surfaces which is a lot when things have to fit together snuggly. At first I thought my model was bad for a resin design, I have done a lot of modeling for resin prints and printing with resin but not something with dozens of interlocking parts like this. So I did some subtle redesigns increased tolerances and forged ahead sanding where needed. It worked (photo attached) but was a lot more work than needed and it effected the final look of the model slightly, most evident in how thin I needed to make some wood sections to make up for having up to 1mm less space in some areas. Proportionately my the wood on my FDM print looks way more spot on than the Resin version despite them being nearly the same file.. This bugs me a lot, so I made some specific calibration models printing and started tweaking settings to get things to come out as expected. In Chitubox I settled on the tolerance compensation settings shown in the photo, it's not perfect but parts fit together much better, and with those settings I am reprinting everything yet again to verify fitment. Maybe I just should have sprung for the resins which claim "high accuracy", or "engineering" and I might not have had to deal with any of this, but I still wanted to confirm things could work if you dial in your machine slicer and resin correctly.

Hope this helps.
 

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renaissance_man

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Come on now, RM, it's been 13 days since the last update! :)
Sorry, I didnt get any notifications that there had been new posts, despite this being my thread. o_O
I've got sheets of wood veneer to make mine as authentic as I can, rather than going for a 3D printed wood grain effect panel.

I recently changed jobs so prop making has slowed a little.
An update will come soon.
 

Ryan The Mast

Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I've got sheets of wood veneer to make mine as authentic as I can, rather than going for a 3D printed wood grain effect panel.
Which wood type did you settle on? I ended up with mahagony and a simple stain to darken it a little. I'll admit I don't do much with wood so I may be mistaken on what is the best option.
 

renaissance_man

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
A random thought. Any chance of cold casting these with a combination of brass and bronze metal powder? That would give it an awesome authentic look.
I've had my TemPad 3D printed in Nylon because of it's mechanical resilience as the hinge area is quite narrow.
I have been burned doing a run or two before and investing in RTV and resin and then people drop out of the run and I'm left with fewer people in the run to cover the investment in materials. I have decided to just have parts 3D printed as and when a member wants a kit.
I think a cold cast prop would be cool too or even a 3D printed brass TemPad would be even more amazing, albeit really expensive especially with Shapeways. I'm going to go for a painted finish.
 

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renaissance_man

Sr Member
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The graphic I made for the display screen printed on acetate sadly doesn't have the desired effect I was looking for when placed on the black glossy acrylic.
It looks great against a white background but loses it's magic when placed on the black acrylic. I'll have to rethink this one.
TemPad 1.jpg
TemPad 2.jpg
TemPad 3.jpg
 

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Ryan The Mast

Member
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The graphic I made for the display screen printed on acetate sadly doesn't have the desired effect I was looking for when placed on the black glossy acrylic.
It looks great against a white background but loses it's magic when placed on the black acrylic. I'll have to rethink this one.
This is looking really good! I was thinking, one possible good way to fake the screen. Get a piece of orange glow edge acrylic, paint it black then laser,/ engrave the screen image on it. If you can hide a UV LED in the corner it would glow and probably look halfway real. If this is a method you'd like to try (and you don't have a laser/cnc ) let me know and I might be able to make it and send it to you just PM me and we can work it out.
 

renaissance_man

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
This is looking really good! I was thinking, one possible good way to fake the screen. Get a piece of orange glow edge acrylic, paint it black then laser,/ engrave the screen image on it. If you can hide a UV LED in the corner it would glow and probably look halfway real. If this is a method you'd like to try (and you don't have a laser/cnc ) let me know and I might be able to make it and send it to you just PM me and we can work it out.

Thanks for the tip Ryan, unfortunately I've sealed my black acrylic into the lid but your idea sounds great.
I think as it is I might just leave mine in the standby mode with the blank screen, but I really appreciate your offer, thank you.
 

Ryan The Mast

Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Thanks for the tip Ryan, unfortunately I've sealed my black acrylic into the lid but your idea sounds great.
I think as it is I might just leave mine in the standby mode with the blank screen, but I really appreciate your offer, thank you.
I can just reprint the lid for you too if you want, probably a good idea any way so we can redesign around fitting an led in the edge. I like what you have done with your design I would be more than happy to support bringing it to life if I can. Worse case scenario it doesn't work or turns out bad and you just don't use what I make and you keep your original. Any way this is your project, seriously no pressure to do one thing or the other.
 
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renaissance_man

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I can just reprint the lid for you too if you want, probably a good idea any way so we can redesign around fitting an led in the edge. I like what you have done with your design I would be more than happy to support bringing it to life if I can. Worse case scenario it doesn't work or turns out bad and you just don't use what I make and you keep your original. Any way this is your project, seriously no pressure to do one thing or the other.
My lid is now integrated into the main body through the hinge point so this would be a re-print of the main body too. I think rather than essentially start from scratch I'll try and find a way to make the graphic work with highlights and reprint it.

Thanks for the support, much appreciated.
 

Ryan The Mast

Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
My lid is now integrated into the main body through the hinge point so this would be a re-print of the main body too. I think rather than essentially start from scratch I'll try and find a way to make the graphic work with highlights and reprint it.

Thanks for the support, much appreciated.
Ahh sorry, I did not realize the lid was permanently attached.
 

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