Tron Anon Pepakura Helmet

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PepMaster

Sr Member
File is a Anon Helmet Pep File. I spent about 30 minutes unfolding it, if anyone wants to re-unfold it feel free to do so but I feel I did a pretty good job and the current scale should be good, but I'm not sure. If you want a support for the head opening just take the part in the upper left corner above the 2D Development window and add it to the pages. The file is in Letter Size paper, 290mm high. Enjoy. 3D Model from Halomaps courtesy of Advancebo.
I figure this helmet will make a good base for most of the other Tron Legacy Helmets with what I've seen people do with bondo and clay on pepakura. Enjoy.
Anon Helmet.pdo - 4shared.com - online file sharing and storage - download
23m0ci1.jpg
 

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tk1055

Sr Member
Thank you very much! I have this on my list of projects. in fact if anyone else is doing this costume here is another big help. You should be able to blow this pic up and make the armor fairly easy!

Then Ram is your uncle Sark is your aunt. :thumbsup
 

PepMaster

Sr Member
Wow those texture files will be of great help I did'nt even think of that until you posted them that the texture files could be blown up and used on thin foam sheet for costme construction.
 

CyberPaddy66

Well-Known Member
Must have missed this one first time around, thanks for the file Vagabond and TK1055 that's a neat idea, you may have saved me a lot of trial and error time :D
 

Rinzler

Well-Known Member
Tried last night to start assembly I printed on normal paper and......epic fail, am going to try cardstock again tonight, any tips would be appreciated
 

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CyberPaddy66

Well-Known Member
The more rounded a helmet the more litle pieces your going to have, it's a toss up between smoothness and ease of build... for instance a Lego Head is much easier to make than an Anon Helmet would be but the Lego Helmet wouldn't look half as nice when it's finished :p
 

Rinzler

Well-Known Member
I have started on cardstock version (slowly due to time constraints) and am happy so far with results, I plan on fibreglassing and smoothing it out eventually so not concerned about seeing too many edges :) I am a bit perplexed on how I am going to light it and make a see through visor though :S
 

PepMaster

Sr Member
I can only think of one way to really do that, vacuforming. Once the helmet has been built and smoothed fill it with plaster and cut it into two halves I would suggest side to side not front to back for the cut, then you can vacuform the 2 halves with Clear PETG that has been dyed black and there you have it. It would be a lot of work but you could also sell some helmets in the process as well.
 

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Rinzler

Well-Known Member
i have no idea how to vacuform, sounds like I have to spend more money than I would like, I'll see if there is anyone locally that may be able to do it
 

PepMaster

Sr Member
The other way to do it is to make a mold and cast out of clear plastic with a black tinted dye. Vision would probably still be a little blurred but that's another option.
 

Rinzler

Well-Known Member
Thinking of making a vacuum former at home and trying my hand at it, been checking a LOT of video & tutorials, it's still a price/material/time issue but my father is a metal fabrication/engineering teacher, he might be able to help me source some gear and try it out. With the Tron Legacy helmets would it be a good idea to paint the helmet black, vacuum form the plastic over top (tinted) then cut out the view port/face so it still looks black all over, I haven't seen anyone on these forums pull off a good CLU/Rinzler/Anon helmet yet to compare methods with.

P.S. is there anyone in Australia on these forums who can vacuum form and quote for it?
 

CyberPaddy66

Well-Known Member
I can't find it now but there's a DIY vacuforming video that shows a fully working one build for less than $25 and I think Ben Streeper over at the 405th did a great video of his one being used at home with the help of a little girl (relative I think) so it's definitely something to consider.

As for vacuforming over a painted helmet it's not a good idea as the hot plastic generally pulls the paint off the item your forming over, you could do a pull of the thin clear stuff and the thich non-clear stuff from the same piece so you can then tint the clear faceplate as you like without havig the rest of teh helmet as weak as the faceplate.
 

PepMaster

Sr Member
There is a tutorial on Instructibles for how to build a vacuformer for $30-50, Still if you plan to vacuform the helmet due to the curves of it you will still need to fill the helmet with a material such as plaster and cut it in half one way or the other, other wise good luck getting the plastic off, the plastic you will want to use is Clear PETG I don't know if you can get it in Black Transparent, but the Clear Plastic can be dyed black, which is how Sean Bradley on the 405th makes his visors for the ODST Helmet. Also simple as this.
PETG Thermoform Plastic Sheets for Vacuum Forming - Vacuum Form Your Own Prototypes, Packaging, Molds, and Scale Model Parts
Dying the plastic
www.TK560.com :: View topic - Tinting PETG with Rit Dye
The DEFINITIVE guide to dyeing plastics - PbNation
How To Dye Plastic - rollernews.com
Cheap Vacuforming Machine Instructible
Make a good, cheap, upgradeable sheet plastic vacuum former
 

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Rinzler

Well-Known Member
Nearly finished my first pep assembly ever and it's this helmet, just wondering I had a lot of trouble get it all aligned, is there an order of assembly for this helmet that improves alignment on assembly?
 

sesl

Active Member
Nearly finished my first pep assembly ever and it's this helmet, just wondering I had a lot of trouble get it all aligned, is there an order of assembly for this helmet that improves alignment on assembly?

The more you do pep assembly the more tricks you develop on how to make it come out better. I remember my first pep I would fold every line to later find out most were uneccessary. Now I don't even make a fold unless It's absolutely necessary. As for alignment just try aligning the numbers as best as possible so it kinda mirrors the opposite and try to just do 1 edge at a time. It'll also help you get a smoother curve especially with this helmet.

Good Luck & hope this helps.
 

Rinzler

Well-Known Member
I'll see how I go, I scored all the lines before assembly, I think where I went askew was gluing other bits together first then trying to assembly/align bigger pieces, I am going to see how it looks when finished, trim where necessary and if it look ok after some modification I'll still bondo/auto filler over the top. before I do that do recommend any type of resin to harden it?
 

PepMaster

Sr Member
Do you have a photo of what the helmet looks like, does it fit well? And any kind of fiberglass resin should work, but you can also use a slow setting smooth on resin.
 

Rinzler

Well-Known Member
I am not finished yet (due to fricking work grrr), I can probably trim and "persuade" into shape for resin application.
 

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