Tom's: Gary Kurtz Darth Vader Stunt Lightsaber

Another update!

Finally broke down and scratch built the wiper part. It could be better (taller, for one thing), but it'll do, I reckon. I used sheet styrene, and I missed the mark on the middle holes. They're too low. Oh, well.

Also shortened the control box, and added the "switches", which are just chunks of rubber from some inaccurate t track that came with a Hyperfirm E-11.

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I'm so sorry I'm posting so many updates all in a row, but I promise this'll be the last one for awhile!

All I really did this time was cover the gaff tape with a layer of black paper tape. I think it's slightly more convincing, for that rubber look, than the gaff.

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Oh, I also reshaped the little black "switches" slightly. I may shorten the taller one just a couple hairs...
 
Nice work! I think theres more going on in the clamp area than meets the eye. there's an edge on shot from the emitter down where it almost looks like the clamp is up on a raised ridge.
 
Dann thats looking amazing! great stuff!

I've got a bit of an update as well, as this weekend I received my Strobonar flash. I could not believe the conditions this time machine was in. It came in its original box and included everything that came with it. Every piece of paper, and cardboard was in there plus the clamp and the cables. Pretty crazy for a flash that was sold in Dec. 17th 1958. I felt bad taking it apart for this build, but it had to be done.

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As far as the build goes, here is my progress so far. I know there are a few things that need to be adjusted, but I'm extremely happy with what I've got so far. The only actual part I'm missing is the clamp/ activation box. I've already ordered something that I believe will work quite well as a starting point to customize in to something more accurate. I did some work on the T-tracks but have not installed them since the my top assembly (the Graflex slave) is set rather firmly, and the clamp I'm gonna be working with will require an entry way.

On the subject of T-tracks. What are you guys using to set them? Whenever I feel like I'm gonna be making changes or adjustments to a lightsaber I go for non-permanent ways to hot the T-tracks, such as hot glue. However the strobonar does not want to hold the hot glue at all and they fall off pretty much on their own after less than a minute of being glued. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

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And because of my obsessive compulsive tendencies I went ahead and bought the only other Strobonar I could find on Ebay. This one is in not as great of shape and didnt include anything, but it will serve as a backup or a future project.

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Beautiful work! And what a nice, pristine strobonar! I'm jealous. You're doing great work on your parts. What'd you use for your metal plate under the emitter? I love the screws you used on your d ring holder, as well. Where'd you find those, and what are they?

I forgot about the rivets/screws on the t track! What'd you use? And what length didja go with for the grips?

When I attach t track, I use either the double sided foam mounting tape, and paint the edges black, or I use the 3M VHB stuff. Both hold really strong, but you can get them back off if you need to.

The problem with both of these methods is that they add a little height to the grips, and some folks don't like that. I think the real props folks probably used super glue or epoxy.

Tom, you're absolutely right about the control box, I see the details there, as well. I tried to bring it up for discussion a few posts back. I'd love to try and crack this thing!
 
Here's a couple cropped shots of the control box area that I tried to brighten up a bit.

Hope this will help us!

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Sometimes I think we're looking at two different sabers, when I look at these shots, the D ring holder looks slightly different in shape, and it could be the angle, or they could've removed or not yet attached the little switches to the box, but the box itself looks slightly different to me.

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Look at the different angles of the D ring holder...
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I'm so sorry I'm posting so many updates all in a row, but I promise this'll be the last one for awhile!

All I really did this time was cover the gaff tape with a layer of black paper tape. I think it's slightly more convincing, for that rubber look, than the gaff.

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Oh, I also reshaped the little black "switches" slightly. I may shorten the taller one just a couple hairs...

Never apologize! More pics the better. Will start mine sooooon.
 
They may have re-done the D ring, but there are so many striking accidental ugly similarities, i fear we're looking at the same saber.

that circuit board plate is absolutely raised off the box!
 
Glad to see so much good research being done on this saber. I have a Strobonar and Graflex slave waiting to be converted into one, but I haven't ever gotten around to it.
 
Hahahahaha! Love it!

To elaborate for no reason: it almost looked like the rebel base on yavin 4. It fell out of the stand and I caught it. I tried to put it back in, but then an employee (this is 100% what happened!) told me "Get out, get out." In the dream it shined about as good as a clean graflex. I could tell it was not the ROTJ, as they look similar.
 
To elaborate for no reason: it almost looked like the rebel base on yavin 4. It fell out of the stand and I caught it. I tried to put it back in, but then an employee (this is 100% what happened!) told me "Get out, get out." In the dream it shined about as good as a clean graflex. I could tell it was not the ROTJ, as they look similar.
Prop dreams are funny. I'm sure we all have them from time to time. I know I have!
 
Yet another small update!

Swapped out the D ring holder screws. Had to countersink the holes, and since these are now M4, had to re-tap the holes in the slave.

Also made a quick and dirty attempt at raising the circuit card on the control box. The foam tape is sort of obstructing the view of the styrene piece I made. I tried to give it that slight chamfer that we're seeing in the close-up shots.

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And I STILL need to add the tiny screws to the grips!!
 
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I had paused on this project because we don't have any styrene scraps or wood to make the control box (anyone got scrap I can buy?)

however. I'm pretty sure now the top is a sliced telegraph graflex. No words extend around the bottom past the square patch (like they do on a slave) and there are set screws at the lip of the socket, just like on telegraph graflexes.

Another option is to find a slave that has those set screws?
 
I had paused on this project because we don't have any styrene scraps or wood to make the control box (anyone got scrap I can buy?)

however. I'm pretty sure now the top is a sliced telegraph graflex. No words extend around the bottom past the square patch (like they do on a slave) and there are set screws at the lip of the socket, just like on telegraph graflexes.

Another option is to find a slave that has those set screws?

Seth was talking to me about your discover, can’t wait to see more
 
I don't want to jump to conclusions, but those screws are in the exact same place. The bulb holder lip shape seems different, but it is chipped so even that is hard to confirm.
 
I mentioned the same thing about the telegraph-era screws to Kurtyboy quite awhile back!

I've still never seen a slave unit with those screws, but I'd not be surprised that they exist.
 

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