Tom Clancy's The Division - Agent Costume

amazing work unfortunately for me though still working on aquiring a 3D printer myself as well suggestions welcome. Would love to see if could incorporate sound as well do anyone have the means to put together just a kit on the plastics components ?
 
RookieDreamer said:
amazing work unfortunately for me though still working on aquiring a 3D printer myself as well suggestions welcome. Would love to see if could incorporate sound as well do anyone have the means to put together just a kit on the plastics components ?
Click to expand...

There are lots of places on the internet that offer these services. http://www.makexyz.com is a site that lets hobbyists and commercial printer owners post their services, so it's potentially cheaper. http://www.shapeways.com and others like it, offer professional printing services, so quality will be better, but at a higher price. These are just two examples, there are literally hundreds (if not thousands). Most major cities have some type of service somewhere local. I'm not sure if they still do, but for a while UPS offices in major metropolitan areas even offered 3D printing services. Then of course there are Maker / Hacker Spaces, which are quietly all over the place. Basically, and I don't say this to be mean, if you "can't find one" you haven't even begun to search.

Also, in the sense of "Six Degrees of Kevin Bacon", statistically you almost have to know someone that has a printer, or know someone who in turn knows someone. People that own printers love using them, and I would imagine they are happy to print you the parts inexpensively. (I'm just WAY to busy to do this, unless you can come over and run it yourself, because one of the biggest time sucks for me would be having to box it up and take it somewhere to ship it.)

The question does become that when low-end 3D printers, such as the XYZPrinting Da Vinci 1.0A that I have (<$400), can you buy the printer and do it yourself "free" for only a bit more than paying to have it done?

Incorporating sound should not be an issue. You already have an arduino in there for the lights... just add a speaker.
 
Thank you very much in truth I have indeed just begun my search I figured best to start at the top you know I do appreciate the information I'm sure it'll prove to be valuable insight though i understand that life can get busy and I guess I didn't intent to come off as a that's cool make me one kind of guy just heard that some people offer those things and like you said love to print things I would love to acquire my own printer there are many things I'd love to make and do and create and suggestions on brands performance and their different price brackets and your opinion would be valuable. i was more just curious what to do given just starting out I would love to incoperate sound into the beacon haven't looked at internal space tolerances on your prints and also mainly to do something and fiddle and learn and see how far I can go realistically that may not be too far given that I'm just a rookie dreamer
 
The internals of the beacon are open, though much of the space is taken up by the battery actually. The microcontroller is just an Arduino variant, and there are many "shields" (addon boards) available to add MP3 playing capabilities. You should be able to download code that is already pretty functional, and just combine it in. Another option, for space, would be to put the microcontroller, speaker, etc. in the backpack, and run a wire up to the beacon (and the watch, earpiece, etc.).

Hobbyist grade 3D printers range $250-2500. The capabilities and quality go up with the cost, though with diminishing returns. I have a good opinion of my $400 XYZPrinting Da Vinci 1.0A... it's a great 80/20 solution (80% of the capabilities of the $2500 models, at 20% of the price). I think it's a great place to start for a first printer, and it is fully enclosed (keeps from getting dusty) and looks good. Lots of people talk-down on the Da Vinci, and they are correct that it doesn't perform excellently at many of the more difficult printing tasks, but it gets the job done most of the time.

If I were buying it again today, I'd probably buy the Da Vinci Pro, which I think is $100-200 more. It has the capability to print in most 3rd party filaments, which is nice to save a little money on regular ABS, but also to use exotics like iron or carbon fiber filled.

Aside from the Da Vinci, I don't see a lot of advantage to the "middle of the road" $600-2000 printers. If I was going above the Da Vinci, the next feature I'd want is to have a second nozzle capable of printing a soluble (dissolvable) support material. That capability is only available on the most expensive $1800-2500 printers. Make Magazine puts out a good 3D printer comparison article every winter, which is worth reading.

Right now, one of the best available printers is the Lulzbot Taz. It's about $2500, and I've toured the factory myself. It's an impressive machine, and is about as capable as any available.
 
I have noticed that in some shots and in the game with some backpacks there seems to be a single vertical sliver of a light on a module at the top center of the pack if one would assume that was the radar module that one can choose in the game you could put the speaker there and your battery pack.
It seems you speak pretty highly of the da Vinci pro so I'll definintly look into that as a good starting point.
But as for the division build project I still need to look into the climbing gear they use to repel
 
RookieDreamer said:
I have noticed that in some shots and in the game with some backpacks there seems to be a single vertical sliver of a light on a module at the top center of the pack if one would assume that was the radar module that one can choose in the game you could put the speaker there and your battery pack.
It seems you speak pretty highly of the da Vinci pro so I'll definintly look into that as a good starting point.
But as for the division build project I still need to look into the climbing gear they use to repel
Click to expand...

The controllable LEDs used in my beacon design are called NeoPixel rings. NeoPixel also makes some strips, and I've been working on programming one specifically for that light strip you talk about. If you put the batteries and microcontroller in the backpack, it can control both the beacon and the strip simultaneously.

I think the Da Vinci is good for the price, and a decent place to get a start into 3D printing. I don't disagree that there are better printers out there, as many people seem eager to argue about. It's about finding one that is right for your needs.

The climbing gear used by the agents in the game are called "ascenders". You can find them on Amazon, and other places, for $35-100. http://smile.amazon.com/Leadrise®-Equipment-Shengbang-Stainless-Ascenders/dp/B013HWH87U
 
Ah ok it's like those neo pixel rings are the perfect match for that now with your antenna for your beacon did you go with a soft rubber strap or is that rigid I thought it might be a good idea to maybe take a old tape measure and rubber coat or shrink tube it and make the clip functional so that it could be removed and extended maybe even under the antenna it looks like the bottom could function as an removable usb what do you think ?
 
RookieDreamer said:
Ah ok it's like those neo pixel rings are the perfect match for that now with your antenna for your beacon did you go with a soft rubber strap or is that rigid I thought it might be a good idea to maybe take a old tape measure and rubber coat or shrink tube it and make the clip functional so that it could be removed and extended maybe even under the antenna it looks like the bottom could function as an removable usb what do you think ?
Click to expand...
My antenna is a tape measure. I took a 2' long PVP pipe (3/4" diameter I think) and capped one end. I filled the pipe with a can of black PlastiDip ( http://smile.amazon.com/Performix-1...F8&qid=1462284574&sr=8-2&keywords=plastic+dip ) and then dipped the tape measure in, let it dry about 30 minutes, and repeated for 3-4 coats. I did this on several tape measure pieces at once, then picked the best one.

I wanted the whole antenna assembly to be as strong as possible (I hate seeing costumes break because they got run into or bumped at a convention). So the tape measure is epoxied into the cavity on the bottom of the "USB flash drive" part. Also epoxied into that same cavity is a piece of threaded rod, that I heated in the middle with a torch and bent into a "U" shape - that is what bolts through the holes in the main body.

There are a couple pictures of that stuff on Thingiverse.
 
IcicleThief69 said:
Awesomeness is your 3D file for the brick in inches or millimeters? Its asking when I upload the file to Shapeways.
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I think it should be inches, but I also think someone told me some of the parts are in inches and some are in mm (they were made at different times, and saved from different computers). .STL files are unitless (they have no units, they just say "this line is 25 long"), which is why you have to choose while importing it. Just try one way, and it will either come out 25.4x too big, 25.4x too small, or just right.

If it says it's ~125"/3125mm long, it's 25.4x too big. It was imported in inches, and needs to be in mm.

If it says it's ~0.2"/5mm long, it's 25.4x too small. It was imported in mm, and needs to be in inches.

If it says it's ~5"/125mm long, it's right.

- - - Updated - - -

Just to be sure, everybody knows there is a v3 of the files, right? I see a lot of people "liking" and printing the v2 files, and I don't know why you would.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1411233
 
And V3 is what your talking about right?

I'm asking because over on the site Shapeways it asks if its in inches or meters or millimeters. I don't wanna end up paying for 3 prints in different sizes. Could you possibly look at the file and make sure all is correct to print the file right the first time around please.
 
Sorry, I'm not going to go through all the files to find out, because it isn't important to know in order to print them - I think you're misunderstanding. Just upload them to Shapeways, and if it says the part is either incredibly small or super large, choose the other option. It's not even going to let you buy a 125" big one, because it's too big to print and would cost $100,000. Several people have reported being able to use Shapeways to print the beacon's parts, so it must not be that big of an issue.
 
OH OK, no problem. Thanks for the insight. This is all new to me.

Here's another ?, I noticed that I can't upload the zip file, do I have to unzip it and upload each file by it's self? I was able to do that upload one of the files. Again this all new to me, but shouldn't I be able to up load them all at the same time?
 
I lack the time to get something like this done, so if anyone wants to sell their beacon. I would be I Interested in buying.
 
Just wanted to say a big "Thank You" again for putting your Shoulder Beacon shell on-line.

I hope to start painting it tomorrow (and dipping the "antenna"), but without that head-start, I would definitely not even tried to do what I've done so far.

Attached is a short-ish video of a quick test run I did on the electronics I plan to put in mine.
Besides the usual suspects (arduino variant, NeoPixel ring), it also contains an XBee for wireless communication (with a 5 button remote I wired up), a soundboard, an amp, and a speaker (and it should all even fit into the case when I'm done).

Thanks again, I'm more of a software than hardware person, and definitely not going for accuracy, but more for something "mostly right-ish" and fun to wear on my backpack around DragonCon (or to the office when NYComicCon happens and I want to "blend in" at the subway stop outside Javits center)

Now if only I could decide whether I want to drill a hole in the center of the center cap before I paint it and stick the speaker against it (speaker fits perfectly inside the space left by the NeoPixel Ring).

Might try to post another vid once I get it less "naked" assuming I don't completely botch the case.


P.S. I know I'm going W-A-Y overboard for a cosplay outfit (especially since I'm not bothering much with the rest).
I like to think of it more as my equivalent of trying to build a Ship in a Bottle. :)

Edit: P.P.S yeah ... the big thing in the middle is the battery. Originally it was going to be running off a LiPo in the case, but the sound board doesn't seem to power right from that, and I ran out of bug fixing time, so battery pack in the backpack it is.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Good to see you back on here, Awesomeness! Shields and I met up today at the Ubisoft press-conference and are already spitballing ideas for upgrades to costumes! We'll probably be posting in the other thread as things come to mind and get built.
 
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