Tips for building the 1/350 scale polar lights enterprise


New Member
Hi I am going to build the 1/350 scale enterprise by polar lights and would love some pointers and suggestions with building this monster. This is my first big build like this. I have only built small time models compared to this. It's a long and mind boggling build but I know I can do it with some help here and there.
welcome, Caleb!

First thing first.

Are you going to light it?

If yes, then you'll need to decide whether you want to buy a lighting kit, or do it yourself.


are you going to paint it, or use the aztec decals?

thanks full of helpful things. i will post again if i have any questions or problems.

what? you wont share any progress pics with us?

seriously, we'd love to see your progress. it's also a great way for you to learn from others who have had to learn the hard way how not to do something.

What size drill bits will I need to get to drill the holes for the lights? I am trying to get ever thing I will need for the build bought and ready.
That is exactly the color I want to achieve. I was going to use tamiya pearl white which many say gives the perfect look.

Bit more complicated than that im afraid if you want to duplicate what trek modeler did. However he is suppose to release a painting guide shortly, may want to hold out and wait for that.
I would love to pull that off but I don't know if I have the talent to make my model look like trek modelers. I mean just to put in all the diffent colors for the azteking would take months to pull off. I was going to use the aztek decals that came with the model. Unless trek modelers give a very in-depth guide to make the average Joe a pro at achieving it.
In what order should I do this thing. Should I drill the holes for lights then prime and paint then put together? Or should I drill, put together, then prime and paint? I have seen it done both ways what one do you guys think will work best.
This reminds me, I've got one of these babies to build, I'm just waiting until i've got the spare cash to get hold of a few more custom parts from DLM, the offical PL Aztec Decal kit and a bucket load of LED's & Resistors.

Oh yeah and before that build i've gotta do a fully lighted USS Defiant, USS Voyager and 2 Maquis Raiders (Eddington's & Chakotay's)

Just out of curiosity, what version you building (TMP Refit, TWOK Battle Damaged, TSFS, or the A)???
Nice, I'm going for an "A" myself, she's always been my favorite golden age incarnation of the Enterprise.

I've got a few custom parts & curcuits from "Don's Light & Magic" Including the ST:V Shuttle Bay, Upgrade Parts Kit & The Captains Dining Room, The only problem is that the Captains Dining Room is 1:537 scail and not 1:350th.
This kit sure is a dent In the yea old pocket book.
Kit= $75
lighting kit = $290
detail paints= $41
not to mention all the glue, tape, tools, and time. But totally worth it in the end.
Yeah, she really is but I hear it's worth it in the end.

Luckally my lighting kit was a lot cheaper as I only bought the flashing/blinking curcuit.

Though, i've always said about these kits don't buy the 1/350th scails unless your deadly serious about making a decent replica out of them.

Anyway good luck with it, I'm sure you'll have yours finished long befor I've even started.

BTW: You forgot Aztec Decals on your list :)
Last edited:
Just ordered the model from amazon. I shopped around for the best price and that's the place with the best over all price and it came with free super saver shipping which just takes two days longer. Will get here next week. Now to buy the trek modeler lighting kit because I have zero electrical skills and knowing my luck I would melt the model or light it on fire and burn the house down.
Oh well, there no time like the present, try not to use steel wire unless you have the right solder and a decent soldering Iron, Heat shrink almost everything as it prevents any cross contact betweene components and buy some flux for those difficalt to solder parts.

I've been soldering for around 15 years, I've been soldering sucessfully for the past 4 :)
This thread is more than 12 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.