Thermal Detonator Build (KR/OR)

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Arcevine

New Member
Hi, Would you be able to solve my questions by completing or modifying the diagram that I am joining you so that I finalize the assembly of my thermal Detonator v3?
thank you in advance for your help because I have serious doubts about my scheme.
Regards
 

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zjunlimited

Well-Known Member
This is awesome. I cut my red light piece as well. Where can I buy more? Im in the US
I posted the link in the OP but I’ll add it here too. They are based just outside of LA so it was a quick and easy turn around.

 

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SilantStrike

New Member
Thank you for documenting this great job.

I am wondering where you obtain the 3d printed file for the red LED button. Is that an STL file you could share?
 

SilantStrike

New Member
just wanted to come back and thank you again for posting this much detail. Thanks to your detailed photos and steps I was able to replicate the button action and applied it to my install.
 

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tennantlim

New Member
Arcevine KRSabers just posted this on their FB page. This should help.

View attachment 1033174
Hi there. You did a fantastic job with your build and I'm very envious of your electronics set-up. I'm currently working on the same kit but I'm completely new to wiring stuff together. Would you be able to help me with these questions?
1. The diagram you provided does not include the green indicator LED. I know one end goes to the 3.3V pad on the soundboard, but from cathode or anode of the LED? Also, where does the other end connect to?
2. How are the intersections actually wired together? This is where I'm stuck at. See the red circles in the diagram below. Photos or diagrams will be very much appreciated.
TD wiring.jpg


3. On the tactile switch (Aux), does it matter which leg I connect the black and green wires to? All I know is I should use the legs that flare out from the sides.

Thank you so very much!
 

zjunlimited

Well-Known Member
tennantlim

Thanks. Glad you found this to be helpful. If this is your first install, I suggest you become familiar with the manual. It has lots of good info. I also wouldn’t consider this to be a beginner install as space is tight and the sequence of wiring and assembly can be tricky.

That said let’s see if I can help...
1) I drew up my own diagram based on what I wanted to do both in function and in layout/sequence of wire runs. What I posted is a sample diagram from KRSabers. In any case, the 3.3v is a positive pad so the other end of the led would need to tie into the negative pad on the board. Drawing your own diagram is good practice since it forces you to fully understand and think how you want to wire it.
2) For wire joints, I used either a pigtail or butt splice depending on the preferred or sometimes required pathway of the wires. Sorry I don’t have pictures of those joints but google has plenty.
3) For the aux switch, yes it matters and generally you are correct. There are 2 pairs of legs on the switch. Key is finding the correct pair. This is easy if you have a multimeter where you can check for continuity. If you picked the correct legs, you will get an audible sound from the meter, confirming continuity. I also use this to check for the correct legs on the other switches (activation and kill) as well as after attaching the wires to verify my solder joint was properly done.

Hope this helps.
 

tennantlim

New Member
tennantlim

Thanks. Glad you found this to be helpful. If this is your first install, I suggest you become familiar with the manual. It has lots of good info. I also wouldn’t consider this to be a beginner install as space is tight and the sequence of wiring and assembly can be tricky.

That said let’s see if I can help...
1) I drew up my own diagram based on what I wanted to do both in function and in layout/sequence of wire runs. What I posted is a sample diagram from KRSabers. In any case, the 3.3v is a positive pad so the other end of the led would need to tie into the negative pad on the board. Drawing your own diagram is good practice since it forces you to fully understand and think how you want to wire it.
2) For wire joints, I used either a pigtail or butt splice depending on the preferred or sometimes required pathway of the wires. Sorry I don’t have pictures of those joints but google has plenty.
3) For the aux switch, yes it matters and generally you are correct. There are 2 pairs of legs on the switch. Key is finding the correct pair. This is easy if you have a multimeter where you can check for continuity. If you picked the correct legs, you will get an audible sound from the meter, confirming continuity. I also use this to check for the correct legs on the other switches (activation and kill) as well as after attaching the wires to verify my solder joint was properly done.

Hope this helps.
Thank you so much for your reply! I can figure out #1 and #2, but #3 will require further research on my part.
 

zjunlimited

Well-Known Member
Thank you so much for your reply! I can figure out #1 and #2, but #3 will require further research on my part.
Multimeters can be picked up pretty cheap...especially for this type of work. No need for Fluke other other high end ones.
Here’s one on Amazon that I have. Works great for basic electronics and it’s way better than guessing and redoing your wiring work later.
Etekcity Digital Multimeter, Amp Volt Ohm Voltage Tester Meter with Diode and Continuity Test, Dual Fused for Anti-Burn Amazon.com: Etekcity Digital Multimeter, Amp Volt Ohm Voltage Tester Meter with Diode and Continuity Test, Dual Fused for Anti-Burn: Home Improvement
 

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